Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Same here, sheet tackle on the stern rail:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Running_Rigging_-_Mizzen_MastActually I have two sets of sheet tackle on the mizzen. When sailing down
wind I move the one tackle to the running backstay padeye, which gives me
an effective vang on the boom. I use the other tackle to control the boom
while I’m moving the other one.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 11:08 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Ditto.Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Skip,
There may well be a difference between the 424s and 422s. I can’t really
turn to port and rotate the boat within its boat length, but it’s not that
far off. When powering up in forward the boat does have to move forward a
bit before the bow starts to swing, but it is generally pretty responsive
(going both to port and starboard). The prop walk to starboard when
turning to port allows me use short bursts in forward. Going to starboard
I have to use a longer burst and then use reverse to recover some of that
forward movement.
Now that I think of it I’ve never really measured the shaft offset. I’ve
always just assumed it was to the port side of the skeg as when motoring
straight ahead the wheel is one spoke down to port to counter the offset
prop. I’ve only had the prop pulled once to replace the cutlas bearing and
I wasn’t there to observe which side of the skeg it passed by.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Feb 22, 2014 at 9:57 AM, skipmac wrote:
john stevenson wrote:
This works quite well as long as you want to turn to port. If you need
to turn to starboard you’re SOL.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comHi John,
I am familiar with the process and have tried it with the 422. My last
boat I could turn port in her own length doing this and I’m disappointed I
can’t do the same with the Pearson.I have experimented a few times and get just a slight prop walk to stbd in
reverse which I do use. What I don’t get is any kick to port (or stbd) in
forward when I goose the engine with the helm hard over. Just about zero.
I don’t see my bow swing around at all until I get some headway and water
flow over the rudder. Basically have to get a running start to get the
boat to turn. I wonder if this is a difference with the 422. I thought
the prop was in the same spot as the 424 but it sounds like you can get a
response that I can’t. I do have a three bladed fixed prop so it’s not an
issue of limited thrust from a folder or two blade.Also, I eyeballed my prop shaft, strut and cutlass and I can’t see the
offset (to stbd?) I see mentioned for the 424. Mine shaft looks like it’s
pointed straight at the leading edge of the skeg. Was that done on all
the 424s or just the early or late models or something? Maybe I missed
that feature. My hull was laid in 1983, boat launched 1984. Hull number
18 of 39 of the 422s but not sure where that would line up with the 424
hull numbers._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
“I had wondered if I had lost my boat handling skills since I read a post
somewhere about turning a 424 with reverse prop walk and short bursts in
forward. “This works quite well as long as you want to turn to port. If you need to
turn to starboard you’re SOL.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Feb 22, 2014 at 8:05 AM, skipmac wrote:
Tor wrote:
Lackluster maneuverability is a 424 trait. I believe it
is caused not by lack of power, but by the great
distance between the propeller and the rudder, the
primary cause of the sluggish, halfhearted response to
bursts of forward power at slow and no speed. It
doesn’t seem like more horsepower will do much to
improve it.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.usHi Tor,
I agree that the prop/rudder relationship has a lot to do with it. Due
to the distance and angle of the prop you can’t get the prop wash impact
against the rudder to kick the stern around. I almost learned the hard
way on my first trip that the Pearson basically will not maneuver until you
have a bit of headway. Came pretty close to taking out the paint job on
a gold plater in Charleston marina but managed to pull it out with at least
2′ to spare.I was speculating that a bit more power and the ability to reach
maneuvering speed in a shorter distance would help. That was my main
thought behind considering more power but probably any improvement would be
minimal.I had wondered if I had lost my boat handling skills since I read a post
somewhere about turning a 424 with reverse prop walk and short bursts in
forward. Used to work quite well with my last boat but couldn’t seem to
get it to work with this one. So in a strange way I’m glad to hear that
it’s the boat and not me.Now for the first time in my life I find myself thinking about bow
thrusters, until I look at the costs. Plus I don’t like the idea of the
turbulence that big hole in the bow would create._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
“I had wondered if I had lost my boat handling skills since I read a post
somewhere about turning a 424 with reverse prop walk and short bursts in
forward. “This works quite well as long as you want to turn to port. If you need to
turn to starboard you’re SOL.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Feb 22, 2014 at 8:05 AM, skipmac wrote:
Tor wrote:
Lackluster maneuverability is a 424 trait. I believe it
is caused not by lack of power, but by the great
distance between the propeller and the rudder, the
primary cause of the sluggish, halfhearted response to
bursts of forward power at slow and no speed. It
doesn’t seem like more horsepower will do much to
improve it.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.usHi Tor,
I agree that the prop/rudder relationship has a lot to do with it. Due
to the distance and angle of the prop you can’t get the prop wash impact
against the rudder to kick the stern around. I almost learned the hard
way on my first trip that the Pearson basically will not maneuver until you
have a bit of headway. Came pretty close to taking out the paint job on
a gold plater in Charleston marina but managed to pull it out with at least
2′ to spare.I was speculating that a bit more power and the ability to reach
maneuvering speed in a shorter distance would help. That was my main
thought behind considering more power but probably any improvement would be
minimal.I had wondered if I had lost my boat handling skills since I read a post
somewhere about turning a 424 with reverse prop walk and short bursts in
forward. Used to work quite well with my last boat but couldn’t seem to
get it to work with this one. So in a strange way I’m glad to hear that
it’s the boat and not me.Now for the first time in my life I find myself thinking about bow
thrusters, until I look at the costs. Plus I don’t like the idea of the
turbulence that big hole in the bow would create._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Skip,
Why not just put the glowplug circuit on separate momentary switch. That’s
how my Westerbecke was wired. My Yanmar switch turns counter clockwise to
engage the glow plugs, but I’ve never used that feature.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Feb 20, 2014 at 11:21 PM, skipmac wrote:
The old switch is about shot and want to replace it but have trouble with
the selection.The existing switch has off/on/crank and a push to engage the glowplugs
momentary position. I have found plenty of switches with
off/on/acc/crank and similar but the only ones I found with a momentary
function were for a carburetor choke and not sure if they would handle the
amperage for the glow plug solenoid.Anyone know a model number for the proper Cole Hersey or similar switch,
preferably a marine grade, water resistant and such.Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
jody & stephen
Where are you? If in the N. Florida region i recommend Sparman (
http://www.sparmanusa.com/HomePage.html). He’s a Brit based out of
Gainesville, Fl. Does quality work and does it timely.
He re-rigged my mizzen last year. I think the price was around $700. I
had the main re-rigged in 2007 for around $7K by a quality boat yard in
MD. Sparman did the rigging with the mast in place. The yard required the
main mast to be unstepped.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:31 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
I’m doing my standing rigging right now. It’s not done, so my final price
is up in the air.I had several earlier quotes from good riggers and some quotes for rigging
alone (without labor). I was mostly getting quotes from the 8k to 12K range
(on complete work, including labor and some timely upgrades (new wire, LED
anchor/steaming lights, etc.)). From these guys, most were quoting the
rigging alone (no labor or upgrades) at about $6500 – $7500.The rigger I currently have working on my boat has quoted me $2000 for
rigging and $2000 for labor. A HUGE savings, if it holds true. To be
honest, I can’t imagine those being the final numbers, but I’ll keep you
posted.Paul
On Monday, February 17, 2014 2:32 PM, JodyandStephen <
> wrote:Hi everyone,
Has anyone had a re-rig of their ketch? We are essentially looking for
some price indicators.Thanks in anticipation,
Stephen & Jody
Blue Pelican
O.N. 859321_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob & Rich,
I can verify the certification cost for a Switlik raft at $1200. That is
the price I was quoted last year from the outfit in Baltimore.Bob,
I know you are smaller than I, but a 6 man raft is barely large enough for
2 people for more than 24 hours. If you’ve ever climbed into one with more
than another person you will want to get out ASAP. They are only for
survival, but I’m not sure I could survive with another person in a 4 man
raft.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 1:19 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Oh, no, the cost of a new raft is $2500 to $3500. So raft and cert is like
$1500, at least from me. Check out the cost of these things. You’ll have
a heart attack.Bob
On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 10:53 AM, wrote:
Bob
It’s been a while since I had to certify a raft. Your quoting the
certification price at $1200 and the cost of a new raft at $600. Doesthis
Quote:make sense?Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Original rejected by maillist
Ken,
I replaced the monstrosity with a new box described here:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htm.I got the idea from the PO of Chuck’s boat.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here’s a link to the evolution of the Dodger & Bimini on Sarah;
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeCanvas.htm#Dodger_and_BiminiThe mizzen rigging certainly presents a lot of challenges for the Bimini.
In order to provide decent sun protection to the cockpit the dodger must
extend aft to the mizzen mast or an insert between the Dodger and Bimini is
required. Both solutions present problems when underway. I finally had an
insert made, which is great when dockside or at anchor, but I remove it
when underway. Off-shore I would probably leave it up, but I haven’t done
any off-shore sailing since I had the insert added.The Bimini does make handling the mizzen difficult. I moved all of the
controls for the mizzen (outhaul, topping lift, reef) to rope clutchs on
the forward end of the mizzen boom. That way I can raise, lower and trim
the mizzen from the cockpit (with the insert removed). I still have to
climb up the mast and hang off the transom to tie-down and un-tie the
sail. Tor’s solution for a set of hatches in the Bimini would undoubtedly
remove that problem. A stack pack type sail cover would also work well.I am over 6′ so to get decent head room under the Bimini I had to rease the
mizzen boom about 6″. That was easy given the goose neck rides on a piece
of sail track and my mizzen was not a full hoist and didn’t require any
modifications.I initially resisted getting a Bimini on Sarah as it does get in the way of
sailing, but I was really glad I had it on my two Atlantic crossings.
Having just spent my first summer in Florida I’m also glad I added the
insert and side awnings.Heading down the ICW or inlet hopping in fall there have been times I would
have liked a full enclosure, but so far I’ve had too many other things to
spend money on that.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 12:40 PM, wrote:
Quote:I can’t seem to find a photo that shows our dodger/bimini/enclosure up. I
attached the best photo I could find.We have a sloop, so there is no mizzen to get in the way of the enclosure.
If you have a ketch, I have no idea how you can put a bimini over the
cockpit. If you have a cutter, the boom is farther aft, so you’ll need a
shorter bimini.The dodger is below my eye-level when standing. I can stand under the
bimini. There is a windscreen that zips between the two. In light rain,
it keeps the cockpit fairly dry. There’s a mosquito-net enclosure that
zips under the bimini and encloses the entire cockpit. It not only keeps
the bugs out but helps keep the cockpit dry when it rains. It won’t
entirely keep the water out if it rains hard however since it’s only
netting. The forward windscreen in the dodger can flip up and we can zip
in a screen panel there to help get air into the cockpit sans bugs. You’d
never get on and off the boat with the thing up if we didn’t have the
second companionway. The enclosure is in two pieces with a zipper down the
back. You can unzip this to get at the BBQ or swim platform.The bimini takes but a minute to uncover and drop. Two straps with snaps
connect it the the dodger frame. We don’t usually put connecting
windscreen in because it cuts off air circulation to the cockpit. We
rarely put the netting up because it’s a bit of a pain to put up and my
wife doesn’t like getting closed in.Even if you decide to skip the enclosure, order your bimini with zippers
all the way around. You can add the enclosure later.I put a row of snaps down the middle of the combing. The enclosure snaps
to these.The whole thing was expensive. I don’t remember exactly how much but it
was about $3500 for the dodger, $1500 for the bimini, $700 for the
connecting windscreen, and $1500 for the netting. Prices vary wildly from
shop to shop as does quality.Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Warren,
I have an Aqua Signal masthead tricolor and anchor light. I replaced the
incandescent bulbs with LEDs from DrLED in 2008. I have not noticed any
increase in RFI on the SSB, VHF or AIS since that installation, although I
have not attempted to measure any RFI with the lights on and off. I just
had reliable radio operation before and after the install.I had problems with reliability of DrLED lights in the cabin and no longer
use them, but the nav lights seem to have held up well.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Dec 6, 2013 at 8:23 PM, Warren Stringer
wrote:Hi all,
Is anybody using an LED trianchor light at the masthead? I would like to
put one there but am concerned about reports of interference with VHF and
AIS.
Thanks,
Warren_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Warren,
I think most (if not all) W58s were delivered with a Velvet Drive tranny.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Nov 15, 2013 at 10:07 PM, Warren Stringer <
wrote:
Carol and I are the new owners of Adagio, formerly Sebastian, hull #149
(1981), now berthed in Deltaville, Va. So far we have enjoyed the boat
immensely, and we are learning and really liking the ketch rig. We are
looking at replacing the fixed prop with a folding or feathering version,
probably the 3-blade Gori, to stop the freewheeling. The boat does not have
a shaft brake, though a rotor disc is present.Does anyone know how to tell what transmission I have? The engine is a W58
but I don’t see a data plate on the transmission, and have not found the
information in the engine or owners manuals.Thanks much,
Warren Stringer_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Cada,
You are right on the manual bilge pump, at least Sarah came with a
Henderson pump. Henderson was bought by Whale a number of years ago. Back
in 2007, while I was still in Europe I was able to buy the same pump from
Whale. I just checked their website and I only see the Whale Gusher as a
comparable pump. I’m sure it can be adaped to the existing pump location,
and that is an excellent pump,
I think the raw water strainer for the engine was by Perko. You need to
contact them to see if they still make a strainer that will fit your unit.
I inherited three Perko strainers and replaced them with two Groco
Strainers. A single 1-1/2″ unit for the engine and generator and a 1′ unit
for all of the other seawater needs (galley, frig, A/C, and the head until
2008 when I installed a composting head).Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 5:22 PM, Cada Grove wrote:
Hi to all,
I have been away a good bit, but back to working on Jubilee. Need some
help with part identification.1. Raw water filter about 1980 – who was maker. My “basket”/ strainer has
given out and need to replace. Hope I don’t have to replace entire
strainer.2. Jubilee came with a manual bilge pump in the cockpit – I believe made
my Henderson(?). does any know of a drop in replacement. All the rubber
parts have given out – rebuilt it several times, but no parts available – I
think?Hope everyone had a good summer – was nice on the Chesapeake.
Cada Grove
Jubilee No. 100 Sloop
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’ve done a little testing with this software, and it is very clever and
easy to use. IMO It isn’t a substitute for real charts as GE does not
provide any soundings. The software will however overlay the GE image
with a raster chart so you get the chart soundings and the GE image of the
land masses. I plan to spend much of this winter in the Bahamas where all
charts are suspect, and I may do some more experimentation with this
software over the winter. Unfortunately the main short coming of the
charts of the Bahamas is the soundings so I’m not sure how much value it
will provide.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 7:31 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Sorry, Pete, I’m just the messenger. I was hoping you smart guys would
figure it all out and then tell me what to do. (Actually, I haven’t even
looked at it yet.)Have you checked on the SSCA boards for a thread on this program?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete,
It looks like several of the links are to a file on your hard drive, not
your website. The link to the new cabin sole is one that works. With the
links to your hard drive they would work on your system when you tested
them, but not on anyone else’s system.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Links work just fine when I test them. Each article link opens a separate
window. If that feature is blocked on your system, copy the link and paste
into another browser tab address line.
There is plenty of information there on the Alexseal yacht paint systems
(including how I did the decks).On 10/25/2013 1:33 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
Your links don’t appear to work. Is there something wrong with your
website?I’m curious about your deck painting experience. I’ve not found anything
I like. I tried interlux 2-part but the deck was too slippery. I tried
interlux deck paint but the grit is too aggressive and the paint holds
dirt. I tried Pettit EZDecks paint. Though the grit is also too
aggressive, the paint is more durable than interlux. I want something that
gives a good grip, looks good, is durable, and sheds dirt.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Ken,
I guess I was the first of our group to go to a composting head. I and
Pete chose the Airhead. I think at least two other owners went with the
Nature’s Head. As far as I know everyone is pleased with the decision. I
have been living onboard with the Airhead for over 5 years. I documented
the install and experience at:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewCompostingHeadInstall.htm
There are downsides to the heads – for one you get to be up close and
personal with your sewage, but you don’t have to worry about clogged sewage
lines and failing holding tanks. As you are now aware, when those issues
come up you get even closer to the sewage than with a composting toilet.
If you decide to go that way, you may want to consider retaining the head
in the forward cabin if you often have several family members or friends on
board for extended periods of time. I get 6 weeks or more before having to
dump the compost as a single. I have talked to couples who get about the
same or a little less. A family of 4 would probably get less than a
month. Having a discharge head as a backup for more than two people on
board might have some value. I don’t think there is room in the forward
cabin for 2nd composting toilet, and they are very expensive.
If it’s just the two of you with occasional guests, I’d rip everything out.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 12:40 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:There should be a thread on composting toilets in the pearson424.org
archives. One of our group did all the research and chronicled his
installation a few years ago. From what I’ve heard, it’s a great way to go.
I kind of wish I’d known about it when I was refitting Silverheels.I will say that my traditional overboard/holding tank system, which I
installed, never smells. In my experience, this is rare. I’d guess
90-something percent of head compartments stink, sometimes stinking up the
whole interior of the boat. The reason mine doesn’t (and didn’t on my
previous boats) is simply that I maintain a *20-pump rule. Whether you pee
or poop, it’s 20 pumps counted from when the bowl is first empty and clean.
By never leaving raw sewage in the system, I never have an odor. On the
occasions that I have to use Silverheels’ holding tank, it doesn’t smell,
either. That’s because I vented it properly, with both air intake and air
outlet hoses. If you google the subject you’ll find some excellent articles
on the subject. Hardly anyone vents holding tanks properly, including
builders, and that’s largely why they stink. (Old or cheap hoses are
another
source of odor.)*20 pumps is not universal. IF that is enough to clear the plumbing
entirely, fine, but you have to find out. You do this by putting a couple
of
squares of toilet paper in the toilet and having someone flush it while you
watch the discharge outlet thru a dive mask from the outside. Count how
many
pumps it takes until no paper particles are emerging. That’s the pump rule
number for that boat.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum