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Paul,
When I purchased Sarah in 2000 I was also concerned about sludge and water
in a then 20 year old tank. I considered doing something similar to what
Tor did or renting a fuel polishing set up. Never did either. In the
first year of my ownership I took Sarah to Bermuda and back. The trip over
was almost all motoring. When I got to Bermuda the Racor filter was clean
and no water in the bowl. So I figured the tank was clean and worried
about other things.
In 2008, after a lot more off-shore motoring, I repowered and replaced the
fuel tank. When the yard was getting ready to remove the tank they first
pumped out all of the fuel with a big 125VAC pump. Initially they dropped
the hose down to the bottom of the tank. They started the pump and it
immediately collapsed the hose. They pulled up the hose and it was clogged
with sludge. As everyone says “I’d rather be lucky than good”.
So I’d recommend doing something like what Tor did rather my ignorance is
bliss approach.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Paul,
This subject has come up before, most recently a month ago. My comment then
was as follows:My 424 had been sitting on the hard for unknown months when I bought her.
One of the very first things I did, just before (mostly) motoring her 300
miles up the ICW to another boat yard, was to remove and replace that foggy
portlight in the cockpit sole so I could see through it, and pull the
30-year-old fuel sight gauge and replace it with a new one, readily
available from any marine store for $10 or $15. While those things were
out,
I secured a hose to a long stick with wire ties, gently lowered the end
through the sight gauge hole to the tank’s deepest point, which is at the
forward end of the tank, and used a hand pump to suck out about a gallon or
so of fuel from there. To my delight it came up clean and free of water, so
I figured (correctly, as it turned out) that it was safe to use. If it had
come up ugly, I would probably have pumped out more until it showed clear,
or if it looked too far gone, arranged for polishing.Of course, I had the advantage of a boat that had been on the hard for a
long time. Any water and most dirt in the fuel tank would long ago have
settled to the deepest part of the tank. But even if your boat has been
sitting in a calm slip for a week, I believe you’d find most if not all of
the gunk settled to the bottom.Of course, you can unwittingly take on dirty fuel anytime. I have been
saved
more than once by having twin Racor fuel filters / water separators between
the tank and the engine, with a valve to switch from one to the other
instantly if one gets clogged by sludge.Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
Original MessageQuote:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Page two,
Can’t help you on the mast pulpits, but several owners (in addition to Tor)
installed the same design so I’m sure you’ll get some responses on that
query.
I keep my dinghy on deck, but it is a 9′ AB RIB. I can keep that dinghy on
deck, fully inflated, and still get around it to get to the foredeck. It’s
deflated for passages which keeps it within the trunk cabin dimensions.
Since you are considering a hard dinghy of the same length it should fit
within the footprint of my deflated AB, and still allow the installation of
the mast pulpits. I elected not to go with the pulpits because I wanted to
be able to keep my AB fully inflated on the foredeck for coastal cruising,
and the aft end of the dinghy tubes extend on either side of the mast
taking up the space the pulpits need. My Monitor windvane precludes the
use of davits. Tor came up with a solution for both davits and a windvane,
so you should look at that as an alternative to on deck storage for coastal
cruising.
For my AB, I use a bridle and the spinnaker halyard for launching and
retrieving. That allows me to raise the dinghy out of the water against
the hull, but not on deck for overnight security. Not sure it that would
work well with a rigid dinghy as the inflatable tube acts as fender against
the hull.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 5:33 PM, Page Two wrote:
Can anyone who has installed the recently built mast pulpits that I
believe Tor designed, give me a few dimensions of the fore deck?1) Athwartship immediately forward of the new mast pulpits, hand rail to
hand rail.2) From that line…to the front of the cabin house.
3) The height of the forward house to the deck.
4) Overall, from the forward edge of the pulpit line to the aft edge of
the anchor locker.I’m considering a hard tender. Any and all info anyone has to share about
storing a hard dingy on the fore deck would be appreciated. The dream…9′
Dyer sailing dhow. It’s about 4′ 7″ wide.
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Tor & Rich,
What your recommend is exactly what all of us should do to mitigate the
possible damage from storm. Unfortunately I don’t think that will have any
effect on the premium an insurance company will demand for coverage. They
will take the money they might save on possible damage to your properly
prepared boat and use that to help them cover the damage to the boats owned
by Bozos. The reason to take the actions identified in your posts is to
minimize the damage to your boat. I do not believe those actions will
impress the insurance industry enough to grant you a premium discount. A
history of no claims over a decade or more (regardless of how well or
poorly you prepare for storms) is probably of more value in dealing with
the insurance industry.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 8:41 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:There is actually a good deal you can do for your boat and yourself when a
hurricane is approaching. I recently came across a pretty good article on
it
at http://www.dhlyman.com/DHLyman.com/Hurricane_Preparation.html .If I wanted to press an insurance company or agent for less expensive
coverage, I’d present them with this article (to verify that I actually
know
what to do, which they most likely do not), assure them I will do
everything
it recommends, and ask them to adjust my premium accordingly since I am
obviously at a much lower risk for losing my boat to a storm. If one
company
or broker won’t respond to this, I’d present it to others until someone
does.Yes, I’m just an uninsured vagabond dreamer & all, but if I were on the
other side of the negotiation, i.e., that agent or underwriter, I’d be
impressed.Just a thought from the other side.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Charley (most of this is a repeat of my post on this issue several months
back),
I went through the same thing with IMIS (Markel) back in the spring. I
have a lot of respect for Al Golden, who owns IMIS, and I believe he is a
straight-up guy. Also, a major portion of his business is with cruisers
rather than weekend sailors that make of the bulk of the customers of most
other underwriters. Still they wanted to charge me $500 because I won’t
move my boat 40nm north of JAX to the state line. I pointed out to IMIS
that Kent Island, MD (where their office is located) has a higher incidence
of Hurricanes than JAX, but they said it was because of the higher
concentration of boats in Florida. I then pointed out that looking out any
window of the IMIS office they are probably seeing more boats than are
located in the entire JAX area (this is not a major boating area such as
south of here). They said the price is what it is.
I could have taken the chance on no storms here (looks good now), but I
woosed out paid the hurricane premium (with an increase in the
deductible). I almost hope we get nailed to allow me to make a claim and
justify the premium.
That said, I do believe that Tropical Storms wreck havoc with the
insurance companies’ bottom lines. I remember being in Al Golden’s office
back in 2007 (for an SSCA meeting) when he disclosed that Markel had a 47%
claim on their policies that year (no big one for storms). I also have a
couple of friends who worked in the BoatUS claims department. They told me
in 2004 BoatUS lost all of the profit they had made since entering the
insurance business due to the 4 storms (or was it 5?) that hit Florida that
year.
Whatever you think of the ethics and practices of the insurance business,
they are just offering a means to bet on the future. If you feel lucky,
you don’t need them. If you take their bet you are playing with the house
odds. They aren’t in this business to lose money.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 4:59 PM, cstewart wrote:
I hate to resurrect this dead horse but all those nice things I said about
Seaworthy Insurance will now have to be re-evaluated. I just got my
renewal and with great care NOT to file any claims last year, they went up
on my premium by 22%. When I asked them why, since I was obviously
experienced enough and capable enough to sail several thousand miles and
have no wrecks or claims (they should in fact reduce my premium), they
replied that it was because of Hurricane Sandy. Then I started my
Geography lesson about where the Gulf of Mexico is and where New Jersey is.
It seems they didn’t care, and went on explaining how they were going to
spread the expense to all customers, because….Hurricanes happen, and we
all have to bear the expense. I tried to remind them that when I moved the
boat from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, they charged me an up-lift
premium, then, because Hurricanes happen..down there. I agreed and paid
the up-lifted charge. But then this Hurricane comes along, and its not
even mine, it is a NEW JERSEY hurricane, and they want to charge me a
premium. Another premium. I reminded them that they already did that when
I went to Hurricane Alley, now they were double dipping. To no avail. If
I want the insurance I will pay the premium. I will probably do that, but
right now I just need to *itch.thanks for listening. Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
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Paul,
The original prop on my 424 I believe was a 20×10 LH Fixed 3-blade Michigan
Wheel. I replaced with a 20″ Maxprop 10 years ago. Stern walk in reverse
is to starboard. In close quarters I always want to turn to port.
However the shaft is offset to port to allow it to pass by the rudder skeg
when being removed. This means you have to apply a slight port rudder when
motoring ahead. On my boat that is about one wheel spoke to port.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 7:38 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
Quote:thanks Alan,Are all 424s LH props?
Can you give me your ‘prop specs’ for my records (assuming you have a
fixed, as I do)
Best,paul
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I, like Tor, am not mechanically inclined. I suppose an automotive
transmission mechanic could fix it, but first he would have to get the
service manuals. I’d go with a mechanic who is knowledgeable on this
specific transmission – is it a Velvet Drive? If so, you may be able to
find a service dealer here: http://www.velvetdrive.com/distributorsm.html.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 7:36 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I am among the less mechanically inclined members of this group. I don’t
know whether an auto mechanic could rebuild a marine transmission. The guy
who rebuilt mine when I first got Silverheels and repowered her does
nothing
but marine. My guess is an expert is better than a generalist in this case
–
certainly there are differences between boat and car trannies – but that’s
only my guess.Hopefully one of the smart guys here will answer your question more
authoritatively.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Paul,
I think most of the 424s were delivered with a 50A main breaker on the
electrical panel, but I’m not sure what type of deck receptacle was
originally installed. My boat has a 30A receptacle, but I think that was
installed by the PO. So I use a 30A cord for dockside hookup. I have a
50A adapter when tied to docks that do not provide 30A service (many on the
AICW). Sounds like the cord on your boat was made up to allow for the
opposite condition – only 30A service on the dock. If the marina does not
meter the electrical service at each slip, they normally charge a fixed
rate for the service. If you are hooked to a 50A dock receptacle that
fixed charge may be twice that if you are hooked to a 30A receptacle. One
other reason the PO may have made up that cord.
Unless your boat has been re-wired to accept 250VAC, everything on board is
125VAC. I have an isolation transformer I used in Europe to step down the
standard 240VAC service there to 120VAC, but that is not necessary in the
US. That transformer also has a 30A breaker so I am limited to 30A for all
systems on board. That still allows me run A/C, refrigeration and a hot
water heater simultaneously. If I want to use my electric tea kettle I
have to turn off the water heater or the A/C. During winter, in colder
climates than Florida, I do a lot more breaker fiddling to allow for space
heaters.If you have no experience working with AC circuits on a boat, I suggest
you get a qualified marine electrician to go over the circuits and document
what you have. If your PO is an engineer, maybe he has already done that
for you. Don’t count on the schematics provided by Pearson, they are
probably way out of date.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 11:54 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi All,
More questions from the noob. I apologize in advance for my likely silly
questions.So my previous 424 had 50 amp shore power hook up. The new one looks like
it does too (based on the input in the cockpit). But the plug on the cord
looks like a 30 amp (male side; it’s even plugged into the shore outlet
that is marked 30 amp). Is it possible that someone has created a hybrid
cord? Is this bad?Also, I’m struggling to understand the nature of 50amp/125v versus 50amp
125/250v. Not sure which is appropriate for the P424 (though I believe it’s
50amp/125v). I’m very NON-technical, so a long electrical discussion won’t
help me. Mostly, I’d just like to understand what others are using on their
424s to get shore power to their systems. Ideally, I’d like to do this as
cost-effectively as possible.Could it be as simple as a pigtail adaptor at the boat input and then
using a standard 30amp cord for connectivity to 30amp show power?Thank you,
Paul
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Paul,
Here’s a simple, if pricey, addition you can make to your Racor to detect
filter clogging before it shuts down your engine:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpradeMechanical.htm#Fuel_Filter_Guage
This is a vacuum gauge that replaces the T screw that secures the cover.
You can check this periodically underway and change the filter when it
starts to show a problem. I have one, but I must confess it has never
shown a clogged condition as I change my filters on a regular basis.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Alan wrote:
I’ve never looked at my fuel tank gauge. I strictly go on engine hours.
Fill up the tank, calculate 1 gallon for every hour of engine. You’ll
probably only use about .8 gallons per engine hour, so that gives you a
good 20% safety factor. Unless of course you run it wide-open throttle.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:06 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Paul,
I can’t provide any advise on the tank gauge. I replaced my tank andguage
several years ago, and the gauge orientation on my boat is likely
different
than yours. Actually, I would guess the gauge orientation varies from
424
to 424, even those with the original tank.
IMO eight months is not really that long for fuel to sit, although your
boat has been sitting in a rain forest. Fuel polishing is not a badidea,
but the Racor filters can be replaced underway without problems. Just
keep
a small jug of diesel fuel handy to re-fill the filter bowl after
changing
the filter to avoid having to bleed the fuel lines. Take a lot of spare
filter cartridges with you.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a part
of
the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list
stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming
months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location
(Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip,but of
course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety and
uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or
hopefully
easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge
arrow”
(on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the cockpit
sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty?The
glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any
other
markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less
than
confident with his answer.
Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the
diesel
has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The
Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail),but
once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The
last
thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting
Deception
Pass.
It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace
it,
can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the
lines
(ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with
diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
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Paul,
I can’t provide any advise on the tank gauge. I replaced my tank and guage
several years ago, and the gauge orientation on my boat is likely different
than yours. Actually, I would guess the gauge orientation varies from 424
to 424, even those with the original tank.
IMO eight months is not really that long for fuel to sit, although your
boat has been sitting in a rain forest. Fuel polishing is not a bad idea,
but the Racor filters can be replaced underway without problems. Just keep
a small jug of diesel fuel handy to re-fill the filter bowl after changing
the filter to avoid having to bleed the fuel lines. Take a lot of spare
filter cartridges with you.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a part of
the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list
stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming
months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location
(Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip, but of
course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety and
uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or hopefully
easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge arrow”
(on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the cockpit
sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty? The
glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any other
markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less than
confident with his answer.Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the diesel
has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The
Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail), but
once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The last
thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting Deception
Pass.It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace it,
can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the lines
(ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with
diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
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AFAIK, neither a sea chest nor a manifold were original equipment on the
424s. If there is one on the 424 you are buying it was likely put in by a
PO.
A sea chest and a manifold serve the same basic purpose – provide sea water
distribution to multiple systems from a single thru-hull. The sea chest is
a tank of a gallon or more capacity that handles surge loads, when more
than one system is drawing water at the same time. This allows the sea
chest to be served by a thru-hull of less total capacity than the sum of
the attached systems. That assumes at least one of the loads is not
continuous (e.g.,, toilet flush, galley sea water pump, etc.). With a
manifold the thru hull must be able to provide the maximum possible demand
from all systems otherwise one of the system may be starved and not receive
its full demand.
Here is a description of the manifolds I put into Sarah 10 years ago:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Haulout.htm.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 5:04 AM, Page Two wrote:
I was spending some time reading older posts here on the forum and in
March of 2008 there was a discussion of the sea chest and raw water
manifolds etc. I’m curious as to exactly what the sea chest was and where
it was located in the original construction. Is it a sort of “well” that
stays full of raw water to be distributed? I know the boat I’m buying has a
manifold (not sure of size or volume yet) and a dedicated Groco ss strainer
along with outer hull strainer also. The engine and V-drive cooling has
it’s own strainer.
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Tor,
I accept your use of Lifestyle choice instead of sport. I think that puts
it more into focus as personal choice for which we are each responsible.
I agree, in general, sailing is nor more dangerous than driving an
automobile. However, single-handing is inherently dangerous as you must
rely on the fates when sleeping underway. I have a problem expecting some
one to rescue me when the fates put me in avoidable danger. I have no
problem with those who expect to be saved when they voluntarily put
themselves in danger, it’s just not me (or at least I hope not). The fact
that USCG personnel may voluntarily put themselves at risk, and maybe even
enjoy that risk, is of no importance to me.
A DSC radio is your VHF (if it’s less than 20 years old).Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 7:58 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John,You raise several (to me) interesting issues, especially since I’m sitting
here waiting for the pasta to get done cooking. One, is sailing a sport? I
suppose that’s a matter of semantics and inclination. I don’t race. For me
sailing is a lifestyle, not a sport. Second, is it dangerous? Statistically
less so than driving a car on a freeway, or so I’ve heard. I suppose it’s a
calculated risk, but I don’t see it a inherently dangerous – unless you do
it dangerously.Next, I feel entitled to call on the USCG to help me if I really need their
help, even at the risk of their lives. I’m an American tax payer. I have
paid for that government service all my working life and (knock on wood) so
far never used it directly. As adults joining the Coast Guard, they have
accepted the risks of their profession. Everybody is grown up and accepting
responsibility for their actions. IMHO, that’s a good thing.And if a crewmember falls overboard and after exhausting your best efforts
you cannot save them and have to notify their family, should you feel that
you “lost their loved one?” Or did the loved one screw up, maybe chose to
participate in something beyond their abilities, or do something dangerous,
or just get unlucky? Call me calloused, but I think we are all responsible
for what we do, not for what other people do.And lastly, what’s a DSC radio?
Ah, the pasta’s done.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Tor,
I’m pretty much in your camp. We participate in an inherently dangerous
sport. That’s OK when it is just those of us who accept those risks
onboard. The last thing I want is for someone else (e.g., USCG personnel)
to risk their lives because I got in over my head.
I do have a number of rescue tools onboard (Raymarine Lifetag, EPIRB and
DSC radio). Those are intended to protect crew members who may have not
signed onto my level of personal responsibility. My greatest fear is to
survive a disaster only have to tell someone I lost their loved one.
I also hope I accept my professed level of risk when it is just me that is
in trouble.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 6:27 PM, pete wrote:
Quote:Cap’n Ron? -I just hate having to go back to pick up MOBs…Sent from my Android smartphone with a spell checker that is programmed to
entertain you.
Original message
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There are also potential issues with safety harnesses and jacklines. A
number of years ago a single-handed sailor in the round Britain race
drowned when he was thrown over the lifelines with his harness attached to
a jackline. He was on the leeward side and pinned against hull
underwater. If I have to work on the leeward side I hook into the windward
jackline and cross the boat under the boom or forward of mast.
Of course, like Tor, I often ignore my rules and don’t hook in to windward
or not hook in at all when I’m feeling over confident and the conditions
are not rough enough to put fear in me.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 9:42 AM, Alan wrote:
John
I’ve heard that story before from many other people trying to experiment
with the rope attached to the stern of the boat. The shock as you fall off
the boat, trying to swim to the rope or back to the boat, even in flat calm
seas is almost impossible. I can’t even imagine doing it in rough seas.
I’ve also heard of people attached to the boat alongside, being dragged
and finding it impossible to climb up the freeboard back into the boat
because you’re being dragged along.
I highly doubt that any of us would be able to pull ourselves up the
tether line and back into the boat. Talk about trolling for sharks.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Jul 18, 2013, at 9:34 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Back in the late 70’s, when I and friends were first starting to sail
off-shore, one of us proposed that we trail a line off the stern for a
potential overboard rescue. We decided to test it. trailing a line with
several loops tied in. We motored the boat at about 4 kts in flat seasand
each of us took a turn jumping overboard and attempting a self-rescue.
The line was only 40′ long and I was one of the three (total of 5 guys)
who managed to catch the last loop in the line. Then I almost drownedas I
was pulled through the water at 4 kts. I couldn’t pull myself forward
far
enough to grab the second loop. We were all young and in good shape
then,
although I don’t deny there was some alcohol consumed before and during
the
experiment, which ended when we managed to wrap the line on the prop.
With a crew on board it might have facilitated at retrieval – stop the
boat
and pull the fool on board, but it would have been of no use for
single-handing. Much better to stay on board.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 7:49 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Tan lines for just the pfd? You must have presented quite a sight. 🙂
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jul 18, 2013 7:14 AM, “Alan” wrote:As jack Tyler once said, better to spend $$ on keeping yourself on the
boat, than trying to figure out how to get yourself back on it.
I always have jack lines (1 inch nylon webbing) rigged down both sidesof
boat. Use them religiously when ever I leave the cockpit when I sail
alone.
Also have an EPIRB attached to Inflatable PFD/harness.
When I was in the Caribbean and working on my all over tan, I had tan
lines in the shape of my PFD. I know ….. TMI.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Jul 18, 2013, at 6:45 AM, “” <
> wrote:When a captain I know needs to do a single-handed delivery, he trails
100 foot of line off the stern. He hasn’t had to use it yet but says,
“if
you go overboard, the water displacement of the boat’s motion will suck
you
behind the boat where you have a chance of grabbing the line.” Tying a
type-four to the end wouldn’t be a bad idea either.Roger
On Jul 18, 2013, at 6:11 AM, Alan wrote:
http://online.wsj.com/article/AP587e2ddd4d1e4eb193aec19f1b9a8f22.html
Sent from my iPhone
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Back in the late 70’s, when I and friends were first starting to sail
off-shore, one of us proposed that we trail a line off the stern for a
potential overboard rescue. We decided to test it. trailing a line with
several loops tied in. We motored the boat at about 4 kts in flat seas and
each of us took a turn jumping overboard and attempting a self-rescue.
The line was only 40′ long and I was one of the three (total of 5 guys)
who managed to catch the last loop in the line. Then I almost drowned as I
was pulled through the water at 4 kts. I couldn’t pull myself forward far
enough to grab the second loop. We were all young and in good shape then,
although I don’t deny there was some alcohol consumed before and during the
experiment, which ended when we managed to wrap the line on the prop.With a crew on board it might have facilitated at retrieval – stop the boat
and pull the fool on board, but it would have been of no use for
single-handing. Much better to stay on board.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 7:49 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Tan lines for just the pfd? You must have presented quite a sight. 🙂
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jul 18, 2013 7:14 AM, “Alan” wrote:As jack Tyler once said, better to spend $$ on keeping yourself on the
boat, than trying to figure out how to get yourself back on it.
I always have jack lines (1 inch nylon webbing) rigged down both sides of
boat. Use them religiously when ever I leave the cockpit when I sailalone.
Also have an EPIRB attached to Inflatable PFD/harness.
When I was in the Caribbean and working on my all over tan, I had tan
lines in the shape of my PFD. I know ….. TMI.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Jul 18, 2013, at 6:45 AM, “” <
> wrote:When a captain I know needs to do a single-handed delivery, he trails
100 foot of line off the stern. He hasn’t had to use it yet but says, “if
you go overboard, the water displacement of the boat’s motion will suckyou
behind the boat where you have a chance of grabbing the line.” Tying a
type-four to the end wouldn’t be a bad idea either.Roger
On Jul 18, 2013, at 6:11 AM, Alan wrote:
http://online.wsj.com/article/AP587e2ddd4d1e4eb193aec19f1b9a8f22.html
Sent from my iPhone
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Tor’s experience convinces me that the warnings are overblown, but I think
if I ever put a screen on the engine intake it be a round one that is
over-sized and can be opened to clean the thru-hull. No sense in tempting
fate.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 3:46 PM, Alan wrote:
I agree, in order to force water through the engine you’d have to push
past the water pump impellers.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Jul 16, 2013, at 3:43 PM, John Stevenson
wrote:Bob,
I’m at least skeptical. However I noticed that MainSail (Compass Marine)
posted the same warning on a forum a few years ago (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/external-raw-water-strainer-65505.html
).This guy is pretty knowledgeable, and generally not an alarmist.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 3:15 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
The whole ‘forcing water into the engine’ thing is, in my mind, bs. The
amount of pressure required to force water through the whole system
including the raw water pump is ridiculously high. By that I mean 10sof
pounds per square inch – far more than you could ever generate moving
at 8
knots through the water. There are boats that use speed through the
water
to cool engines but they move very fast and have very large scoops.
But I could be wrong.
Bob
On Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 1:56 PM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Rich,
I agree, going with the round (no scoop) screen would not force waterinto
the system. The yard also said if I put the scoop on backwards (facing
aft) I would not have a problem, but that would defeat the purpose ofthe
scoop. For now I have left the engine intake un-screened. Again that
advice on the scoop screen may be baseless.I sized the screen such that even when half the screen was clogged by
debris I would still have full flow into my 1-1/2″ thru-hull. Irecommend
doing the same with the round screen.
I think you will find that most of the debris that might collect on the
screen will be brushed off once you are underway.
I don’t know which is worse for clogging seawater systems, weeds or sea
nettles, but I am sure the sea nettles are worse to remove. My frigwould
suck in 2 or 3 then they would die and turn into super glue. Often
they
didn’t get to the strainer and just die in the hose from the valve.
With
the screen on this intake I’ve never had a sea nettle clog the system.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 1:31 PM, wrote:
Thanks John,
I see two types of screens, one is round and the other is scooped. Isee
no mounting instructions so I don’t know which way the scoop is
supposed
to
face. If I put the round type on, I don’t see how it could force
water
into the system. I’m not convinced that it won’t still get weed
caught
in
it and eventually clog. Unlike the raw-water strainer, there is no
convenient way to clean it however. Draggers pull up great clumps ofweed.
This sometimes finds its way into our mooring area. These are big
clumps
of weed. If I sucked one into even a 1.5 inch intake, I think it
might
Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:clog though I might be able to pull the weed through.Rich
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