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Hey, Tor, I showed you that in Beaufort NC. I think you had the same
comment…🙂
Bob
On Thu, Apr 28, 2011 at 9:49 AM, Silverheels wrote:
instead of carrying a bunch of cable as emergency rigging…
Wow, Bob, that’s smart!
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Huh. I would have never guessed. On another tack, instead of carrying a
bunch of cable as emergency rigging, I have 200 feet of 5/16″ and 200 feet
of 3/8″ Amsteel line. My local rigger showed me how to do the eyes and
splices and I think that’s all I need. I can swage cable, but the line is
much lighter…Bob
On Thu, Apr 28, 2011 at 8:58 AM, dave jones wrote:
Hi Bob,
Our lines are Samson Amsteel Blue and were factory coated with what they
call “Samathane” a Polyurethane coating for uv and abrasion protection.
Over time this coating wears, you can see the line color fade. Samson does
not offer this coating aftermarket but it turns out that Yale does. Its a
water based urethane which they call Maxijacket. We found it at Annapolis
Performance Sailing. Application is easy if somewhat messy.Dave
On 4/28/11 6:26 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Recoat? With what?
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 27, 2011 11:35 PM, “dave jones” wrote:Ours have been in use for three years (removed and stored in the
winter). We’ve seen no signs of wear at the stanchions and the only
maintenance is to re-coat the line each year.Dave and Pat
Doris E. #178On 4/27/11 10:02 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
I added a chafe sleeve where they pass through the stanchions. This is
new for me this year so can’t answer the long term. A friend has this set
up
on his boat and wear has been more from hanging fenders on his.The lines are supposed to be replaced at 3 year interval. Nice thing is
the hardware is reusable in this set up.Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 27, 2011, at 7:50 PM, “Linus Martinez”
wrote:
Do the synthetic lines chaff in the hole in the stanchions? Or is there
a way to protect them where they pass through the hole.
Quote:LinusQuote:Quote:
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Recoat? With what?
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 27, 2011 11:35 PM, “dave jones” wrote:Ours have been in use for three years (removed and stored in the
winter). We’ve seen no signs of wear at the stanchions and the only
maintenance is to re-coat the line each year.Dave and Pat
Doris E. #178On 4/27/11 10:02 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
I added a chafe sleeve where they pass through the stanchions. This is
new for me this year so can’t answer the long term. A friend has this set up
on his boat and wear has been more from hanging fenders on his.The lines are supposed to be replaced at 3 year interval. Nice thing is
the hardware is reusable in this set up.
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 27, 2011, at 7:50 PM, “Linus Martinez”
wrote:
Do the synthetic lines chaff in the hole in the stanchions? Or is there
a way to protect them where they pass through the hole.
Quote:Quote:Quote:Linus
Original Message
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I like the idea of amsteel, but I’m afraid of their longevity, and how
they’ll last at friction points.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 26, 2011 11:24 AM, “S V Navasana” wrote:I went with 1/4″ amsteel synthetic line. It allowed me to splice my own
lines to size and get away from steel.
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 26, 2011, at 7:31 AM, Alan wrote:
I need to replace the lifelines on UNABATED.
Question: has any one swapped out the coated lines with un-coated wire?What size did you go with and how to you like them?
Right now my life lines are 3/16 wire with 5/16 coating. Was going to
replace with 1/4 uncoated wire – but it’ just “looks” too small .
Alan
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Tor, a 20 amp charger is only inadequate if you draw more than you can
replace in a day, on average. I use about 60 to 100 amp hours a day on
anchor, being profligate with power usage. More like 40-60 ah/day.
Theoretically, I can go about 5 days without charging.The solar panel in summer or down south in the winter provides on average
35-50 ah/day. That means I only have to run the generator for hot water. I
love my showers.Adding the second panel ensures as much power as u can reasonablely use.
That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
I’ve heard that AGM batteries should last about 5 years, but I think I’ll
get more out of them (i hope).Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 26, 2011 11:05 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Bob,My boat came with a little 20-amp charger, grossly inadequate for the
new battery bank I installed. That’s probably what messed up the first
set of batteries, under-charging. When the replacement set showed signs
of doing the same thing, i.e., not holding their full charge, I sprung
for a new 60-amp charger. That seems to have made all the difference,
since I often charge up using a Honda generator. Still, some damage may
have been done. Perhaps the months I still used an undersized charger on
the new batteries messed them up, too. They’re not terrible, but not as
good as I think they should be. I’m going to see if the local WM will
loan me one of their testers (as another WM store did last time) – I’m
not about to remove 7 big batteries and schlep them over there for a
test.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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SOLAS and the ORC both require uncoated lines for offshore use and racing.
I’ve changed mine to uncoated, and now that I know how to use my swager, I
can make new ones at will. I made the mistake of using the Suncor
mechanical fittings, which are ok, but not very pretty, especially since the
internal wedge isn’t corrosion resistant. They recommend using silicone when
putting together. And now that I have an account with Hayn, I get a really
good discount on fittings. With the hydraulic swager, it takes only a little
bit longer to do lines than the mechanical fittings.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 26, 2011 10:51 AM, “Lee Yonkers” wrote:I replaced Morning Glory’s lifelines with un-coated 1/4 lines from WM. Bob
Fine
suggested both the size and the un-coated lines because the larger line is
a
little more body friendly when you bounce into it and the lack of a
coating
allows you to see if they are beginning to fail. Made sense to me. An
added
benefit is the appearance – the un-coated lifelines look better to me.
I also replaced all of the stanchions on the boat with 31 inch units from
Garhauer. I also added one additional stanchion per side. (The Admiral isnot
very sure footed and I wanted to keep her on the boat.) This necessitated
filling all of the existing stanchion holes and drilling new ones. I thinkthe
Quote:final process worked out pretty well.Lee
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I installed 3 AGM 4D batteries as a house bank and 2 AGM group 31 as the
‘starting’ bank 4 years ago. With the Mantra charger programmed for AGMs
they have stayed quite healthy. Having solar panel with a controller set to
AGM helps as well. When I add my second panel, I don’t expect to have to run
either my engine or generator to charge the batteries again.The most important thing to make batteries last is to be sure they are being
charged properly. A standard alternate will do flooded cell and AGM, but
needs special controlling for gel cells. Poor or improper charging will ruin
the held in a heartbeat.Flooded cell batteries are bullet proof, but have the disadvantages of
maintenance, off gassing, and poor recovery from total discharges. AGMs have
great total discharge recovery, but are a little panicky about charge cycle
and voltage. But they have the advantage of no maintenance, no out gassing.
They should be less than gels.Gel cells have all the advantages of AGMs, have, in general, a longer
lifetime, but are really, really easily damaged from improper charging. So
the cost of changing should include charging system upgrades.I chose AGMS because of their full discharge recovery. Supposedly, you can
do it 500 times. When all else fails, and I need power to the last drop, I
don’t want to have to replace $800 worth of battery.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 26, 2011 9:05 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Lead-acid batteries – especially the golf cart batteries many of you use
– seem like the best value, but they’re not supposed to me mounted in
living spaces. I went with AGM’s so I could put the house bank under the
aft cabin berth, all the way aft, where they’re low and reasonably close
to the panel, etc; not in the bilge where they could get submerged in a
bad situation. I went with the West Marine line. Too soon would not hold
a full charge anymore. WM replaced all 7 batteries under warranty 2
years ago. They’re still OK now, but don’t hold a full charge very long.
Now that I’m back in the States, I’m planning to see if they’re
warranty-replaceable again.Next time I’d still want sealed batteries, but maybe gel would be a
better way to go. I had gel batteries in my last cruising boat and all
but one lasted 6 years and were still going strong when I sold the boat.
Haven’t researched gel cells since then.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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The system is very good, but you need to remove the shaft to put it in.
Spring for two extra seals.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 24, 2011 9:31 PM, “Rick Dugger” wrote:At the recommendation of the guys at our marina, who deal with some very
large motor vessels, I replaced my traditional stuffing box with the
SureSeal system from TidesMarine three seasons ago.
Easy Install. No regrets. No problems.It is a little more expensive than PSS but I believe it is more robust.
Additionally, if the seal does go bad, you can replace it without hauling
out (requires installing a spare seal on the shaft).
Evan Starzinger gave it his highest rating for reliable equipment.http://www.tidesmarine.com/shaft-seals.html
On Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 12:16 AM, Herbc wrote:
Thanks to everybody, great info. Starting to lean towards dripless shaft
seal, a dryer bilge would be a good thing._______________________________________________
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Oops 43.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 24, 2011 11:18 AM, “Lee Yonkers” wrote:This is my hull number: PEA59043M79A
Will someone please translate this for me or direct me to a website thatwill
translate it?
Lee
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Google decoding hin but its saying your boat was built by Pearson in 1979.
If that’s what you’re looking for. Maybe hull number 49?Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 24, 2011 11:18 AM, “Lee Yonkers” wrote:This is my hull number: PEA59043M79A
Will someone please translate this for me or direct me to a website thatwill
translate it?
Lee
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Propane and butane both have very low vapor pressure making it a good
propellant.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 23, 2011 6:21 PM, “John Stevenson” wrote:
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Rich,
I was going to say what Tor said, but he got to it first. I’ve never had
one spin off and neither have my customers. Of the reasonably priced zincs,
Camp makes the best with Martyr a distant second. But I’ve never even seen
(or heard) a Martyr spin off.Bob
On Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 9:58 PM, wrote:
Quote:Bob
They are about 3x the price of a cheap zinc but you only need one. The
Godfrey does it’s job. The brass collar holds the zinc to the shaft even
when it’s getting thin. No thunk against the hull when it spins off
folowed by cursing. How many have you lost? I’ve never lost one.Rich
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First, holy crap! $61 plus shipping for a zinc? Are you kidding?
Second, the purpose of a zinc is not to last. It is to dissolve preventing
the dissolution of the other, more useful, parts of the drive train. Having
a zinc that lasts is not helpful in that regard. If your boat is not in a
harbor full of stray currents the corrosion of zincs should be minimal. If
it is, you should hang a zinc fish in addition to the shaft and engine
zincs.Frankly, it costs less to have a diver replace your zincs even here in
Connecticut than it does for one of those Godfrey ones.Generally, a set of shaft zincs should last between three and six months.
Recommended changes are twice a season in the north, and once before
winter. They should be inspected each time the boat is cleaned.I usually go through 6 zincs a year, plus three in the engine.
As an aside, clean out the zinc remnants in your heat exchanger regularly –
years of not cleaning it out will result in a rather hard-ish white gunk
(which is actually zinc oxide and other zinc compounds) filling up and
plugging the tubes. It’s easy to clean. I’ve had many customers with
overheating engines and all they needed was the tubes cleaned of the gunk –
very easy.Bob
On Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 8:21 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Here’s what I use.
http://www.godfreyboatzincs.com/
With a brass collar, they don’t break and spin-off. They cost a little
more
but last much longer. I use one for the summer season. One might last a
full year, I don’t honestly know.Rich
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That’s what I thought. Mine’s the same. I removed that box.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 22, 2011 7:03 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Bob,The shower pan drain is well below the waterline. I’m sure Rick meant
his shower water is pumped overboard directly from the shower stall
drain rather than thru a sump. I set mine up that way, too, and use the
original sump box beneath the floorboards for storage.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Really? The shower sump is above the water line? I guess I could measure
that. Doesn’t water come in when the boat heels? Especially to starboard?Bob
On Thu, Apr 21, 2011 at 5:37 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:
The “dry bilge” pump shares the same overboard as the shower pump… I
don’t
have a sump for the shower… it goes directly overboard…Rick
EclipseOn Thu, Apr 21, 2011 at 1:37 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:
Your idea sure beats trying to “shop vac” the remaining water. Do you
then
pump the water into a shower sump for directing it overboard?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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