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No Worries – we’ll keep it as is. Thanks, Phil.
Bob
On Thu, Apr 21, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Philippe Fontaine wrote:
Quote:I will be out of the country for three weeks beginning July 11 so will not
be able to participate during that time.
Phil
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Hi Tor,
You have a Spartite installation. Nice. The rest of us are wedges and
stuff.Bob
On Tue, Apr 19, 2011 at 7:16 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:My mast has a heavy, fitted rubber collar around that deck aperture in
lieu of wedges. I assumed it was original. As far as I can tell, there
has been no movement there. A boot I bought (from West Marine, I think)
covers the whole. No leaks, no problems that I know of.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Yup, pretty standard – those are called mast wedges and it’s been the way to
support the mast in the partners since the first keel stepped mast. You
should have a tie-down rod just in front of the mast that bolts to the step
and the partners to prevent the deck from working, a very common problem
with keel stepped masts. If you don’t have that rod or some other way of
preventing the deck from moving in relation to the keel, you should consider
putting one in – it can be a simple cable and turnbuckle to the mast and the
partners.Or maybe we’re not understanding what’s causing all the motion.
Bob
On Tue, Apr 19, 2011 at 4:15 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pat
My mast is set through the deck with wooden shims. The shims compress
against the mast collar. Its always been that way. I assume everyone else
has the same setup. The mast will probably sit straight with no shrouds
holding it, though I’ve never tried it.Rich
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Hi Tor,
I don’t know about the pricing there in NZ, and I don’t know what the asking
price of Miss Kathleen is, exactly, but I’ll bet it will be inexpensive for
NZ. Whether that translates into a good deal for someone from here goes, I
can’t say. Also, I suspect I’m preaching to the choir since we already have
a 424, by definition.As far as aggravation goes, I’m being facetious. It is a long cruise and
expensive, too, but for someone thinking of that type of cruising it’s not
aggravating at all. But to save the time and expense of that trip (and all
the special places one can go and see), you could start your adventure in NZ
and explore the area. And there’s nothing to say you couldn’t make your way
back to somewhere else, either. I suspect that one could cruise the South
Pacific for one’s entire life and not see it all. Hell, you could cruise
the Caribbean and surrounds for an entire life and not see it all.Bob
On Mon, Apr 18, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Bob,I flew to New Zealand in 2004/5 to do just that, only to find I’d just
missed the steal-a-boat era out there. Until a couple of years before I
arrived you could buy a good cruising sailboat and most equipment in NZ
for about half of US prices. When I was there things cost about the
same; no great deals. Today I believe it costs more to buy and outfit
over there than in the States.On another note, if you really consider the process of sailing out to
the South Pacific “aggravation,” then you might not like cruising out
there, either. Getting around in that part of the world involves a lot
of long passage-making. Food for thought, anyway.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Adam,
Usually, number one cylinder on an in line engine is the first one at the
front where the harmonic balancer is (or the pulleys that drive your
accessories) – realizing that your engine is backwards, number 1 is facing
the fuel tank.Intake and exhaust valves are a little more difficult to grok. If your
engine is cross head, meaning the intake is on one side and the exhaust is
on the other, the valves are arranged side to side and they are on the same
side as their manifold. If they are fore and aft, it’s a little harder.I’m looking at the manual and they’re fore and aft. It looks like the
valves aren’t the same for each cylinder – it looks like the valves go from
#1 cylinder, intake, exhaust, exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust, exhaust,
intake.You can do the procedure to align #1 on top dead center (I didn’t look that
up, but I’m sure it involves a mark on the flywheel or the harmonic damper),
and adjust the valves in order. Even if you’re 1/2 cycle off, the valves
will be closed and you can check their clearance.Bob
On Mon, Apr 18, 2011 at 7:03 AM, Adamlaw wrote:
Thank you, but I have a manual (two actually-I made a nice bedside edition
and a working edition). For whatever reason, I cannot find this information in the technical manual or the
service bulletins.Adam
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Very cool, Patrick! Excellent!
On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 12:58 PM, Herbc wrote:
That looks great, way to go!
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I purchased my sails from Somerset Sails in Barker NY. It was the second
set I purchased from them and they are standing up well, although this set
had some issues – like the sailmaker didn’t listen to what I was saying. If
you have the patience to deal with that, you’ll get good sails very fairly
priced.You have to measure your sails and when you send the measurements, make sure
you subtract a couple of inches for sail stretch. I purchased a new main
with 2 reef points, new fat roach mizzen with two reef points, mizzen, 120%
jib, and 175% asym spinnaker for about $6300. I also got two sail covers
for the same price. Both main and mizzen are full battened and
loose-footed. Mizzen is 6.5 oz, main is 9.5 oz.He also cut my logo for me which I applied to the sails. Maybe tacky, but
I like it.Martin at Somersetsails.com. Be patient. He does stand by his work though
(sent me a new mizzen when the one he made was wrong – it wasn’t the big
roached one we talked about, it was a standard one. I’m really happy with
the bigger one. Above about 15 kts windspeed I don’t even bother with the
main. Just mizzen, jib and staysail.Bob
On Thu, Apr 14, 2011 at 1:40 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I got several quotes over the past year and a half (summary of each
enclosed). In the end, I went with Puget Sound Sails on the recommendation
of someone who bought from Carol Hasse and Puget Sound Sails and now
regrets
having spent the money on Hasse after seeing Jim’s work.Puget Sound Sails has a 10% off now through June…
http://printmecoupon.com/Coupons/27020/Puget-Sound-Sails-LynnwoodMy sails arrive in May so I can’t tell you anything specific about them
yet.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Apr 13, 2011 at 8:16 PM, Herbc wrote:
Hello all,
Getting ready for the season up here in the NW and a main sail and mizzen
are at the top of the list. Got a couple of quotes already and thequestion
I’d like some help with is how heavy is your sails.
8.62 and 9.62 are the options from one loft. So, whats on your mast?
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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+1 for Rich’s assessment. I don’t think you can even purchase them anymore.
Bob
On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 11:02 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
They are junk. I replaced mine yeas ago.
RichSent from my iPad
On Apr 1, 2011, at 11:17 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
There are some padeyes on my booms each with four mounting holes, all
in-line. One is aobut 5″ long and one is about 3″ long. Picture with ruler
here: http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/BoomPadeyes.JPGDoes anyone know who makes ones like these? I need to replace one of
each.
Thanks,
Pete
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Got me! Ahahahaha!
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 6:28 PM, quent wrote:
No bullets. Did my time at the stupid war de jour in the late 1960s and
have not been a fan of bullets since. Did sell half my load to a guy who
makes fishing lures last year. Apparently lead is either expensive if in
convenient packages, or almost free if not convenient, like wheel balancing
weights, and old sailboat keels.
Anyway, the deal expires in a few hours, after that you will all have to
take your chances regarding stability in high salinity water because the
deal was only good on April 1st!
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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I’m with Joe. The 424 has successfully sailed around the world, and most
recently to Australia and New Zealand. Take the lead to a recycler for the
money. Lead’s up now because we need to make bullets.I’m pretty sure John Stevenson and Tor don’t have any aboard.
Bob
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 8:03 AM, quent wrote:
Bought the lead a few years ago from a guy who decided to lighten up his
centerboard equipped Bristol. I guess he was headed north to the Great
Lakes.
Are you all sure that you want to take a chance? There is some large wind
and waves in the tropics.
Act fast, this is a one day special deal!
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Hi Bill,
Just out of curiosity, why do you need a new one? I ask because I’ve often
wondered if they are repairable if it’s a leaking tube (if only one, you can
safely plug it. Actually, I’ve seen engines run quite happily with almost
50% plugged) If more than that, can it be re-tubed? It would be a long and
tedious process involving a drill, solder (or brazing), bronze tubing, and a
lot of patience. On the W58, I think repair would be possible.I don’t know where you’d get one, frankly, except Westerbeke, but I’d sure
like a whack at fixing it if you’re going to throw the old one away.Bob
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 4:31 PM, wrote:
Well, at least it happened here instead of down in the Bahamas
somewhere… I need a new heat exchanger for my W-60. One is available
thru Westerbeke
for $900, but if any one has any ideas, a “spare”, or a parts link, please
let me know, thanks,
BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA
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Hi Walter,
The reason the shut is there is because on a normal engine installation all
power is tapped from the starter. Marine installs are different in that
there are two main circuits, engine and ship’s power. For true current
draw, move the shut to a single ground point. Otherwise, move it to the
line that powers the dc panel.The shut should have very little resistance. Negligible when considering
ship’s loads.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 1, 2011 8:09 AM, “Seawater” wrote:Thanks, all.
It was indeed a shunt resistor for the ammeter. I don’t see the reason for
passing the starter current through the resistor, so I am bypassing it.
Thanks for the heads up on the welding wire. I used the term loosly to
mean 00 fine stranded wire. I will have to see if it is marine graded.
The circuit breakers seem to be for the pre-heaters and the alternator,
but I have not confirmed.
Walter
SV Madness
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Hi Rick,
I’m in Stamford, CT. Will be in Chesapeake in Sept.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Mar 30, 2011 11:19 AM, “Rick Dugger” wrote:Bob
We’re on the hard there now… plan to splash today and return to Mobjack
Bay marina this weekend.
Where do you usually keep your boat?
Rick
Eclipse
On Wed, Mar 30, 2011 at 6:29 AM, ROBERT HAWKINSwrote:
Quote:Quote:I am interested. Summer/fall would work for me. Hauling my boat at Severn
Marina May 16th. Expect to be on the hard 8-10 days.
Bob Hawkins, KUKULCANQuote:Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:19:01 -0400Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I plan on being down there this fall. September, on my way south….
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Mar 29, 2011 9:19 PM, “Rick Dugger” wrote:Are there any 424 owners interested in a raft up in the southern
Chesapeake
Bay this spring/summer/fall?
There are 3 – 424s in the Mobjack Bay/ York River area that I know of.
There are others in Deltaville, Onancock and Cape Charles.
There are many great anchorages between Reedville and Yorktown.Rick
Eclipse
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