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I got it. Asked for info
Bob
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With humility and gratitude.
Ewan
> On Dec 21, 2015, at 13:56, WordPress wrote:
>
> I'm going electric and am parting out the old W58. I previously purchased a separate W58 as a parts backup, so I have just about two of everything. If interested, email me at dan.kalinowski@comcast.net. Cheap!– — — —
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Alan,
From what I understand, the tank comes out forward after removing the
planking that holds it in place behind the engine. It should be relatively
simple.Bob
On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 5:54 PM, Alan wrote:
One of the reasons I chose this particular 424 hull back in 2003 when I
purchased the boat, was it had a new fuel tank, of which I was able to
verify by the Florida Tank Sales sticker on the tank. noting that it was
installed in 2000.
Here it is 2014 and I believe I have a fuel tank leak.
I’ve looked at all the surfaces that are visible as that tank is
installed, which leaves just the top half all the way around. the fittings
are not leaking. I was able to determine over the weekend that it leaks a
teaspoon per hour. A teaspoon per hour works out to be just about a half a
cup per 24 hours. Not sure if it’s rotted from the inside or chafed
through from the outside.
I have a cookie sheet underneath the tank to collect the oil to keep it
out of the bilge, along with absorbent towels so it’s manageable right now.
So it looks like I’ll have to pull the engine which doesn’t scare me. I
had it out a couple years ago on my trip down south. Last time it took four
hours of my time and 30 minutes of yard time to lift the engine out.
What scares me now is how the heck do I get that tank out. as in wrestling
that thing out with the intention of putting the tank back in, as in not
destroying it on the way out.
Comments?
Repowering at this time is not a discussion. at Kodak we used to call
that “scope creep”Alan
Sent from my iPhone
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Bob Fine
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Although I don’t have any Garhauer gear, I cannot recommend them highly
enough.Bob
On Sun, Jun 8, 2014 at 6:15 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
All Garhauer with their adjustable genoa sheet cars. Great stuff.
Pete
On 6/8/2014 4:00 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
I want an upgrade. Looking at Garhauer. What new tackle or combos does
the fleet use for jibs/gennie?
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I’m going to switch them so that I can light the main, mizzen or both. I
just haven’t figured out the best solution to that yet.Bob
On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 7:58 AM, allantereshko <
> wrote:Thanks,got a couple from Amazon. Many potential applications. How did
you wind up switching them?_______________________________________________
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I’ve done that repair twice – this time was the last time. You could
balance the whole boat on the keel now and nothing would happen.Bob
On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 7:20 PM, Ken Page wrote:
That’s right Bob….that was the introduction of my first haul-out with my
424…….serious repairs.
KenOn Fri, May 30, 2014 at 7:07 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
On the 424, block the aft end of the keel and within the first 2 feet of
the front. Other than that, you’re asking for some serious repairs.Bob
On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 6:41 PM, Ken Page wrote:
I’m not sure what you mean Pete by NOT blocking at the back of the
keel,
I
just recently spent 3 very hard weeks of my life grinding and
re-glassing
upside down under the boat and crouched down deep in the very skinny
bilges
adding layers of glass repairing the keel of my boat because they
didn’t
block the back and the front, they blocked the front (lead) and the
middle
of the hollow part, thus breaking, the bottom of my boat This is where
a
forum like this can create problems. Describing the particulars of
things
gets very distorted from one owner to the other…..in words! Everyone
describes things a little differently and to be honest, I get veryconfused
here by so many different descriptions. I wish I could draw a picture
of
what “I” dealt with and how “I” determined it happened. I would tell
someone MAKE SURE you block the front and back of the keel, notanywhere
in
the “soft-spot” for lack of a better word.
During my intensive rebuild and repair of the keel, I felt the back or
very skinny end was sufficiently robust enough to support not ALL ofthe
weight but certainly an equal amount without breaking anything. I
understand the viewpoint of the crane operator not wanting to block tofar
aft on that skinny little thing, as my crane operator whined, but a
foot
forward of the end is quite enough to support the boat along with the
lead
forward. No designer in his right mind would design a boat ANY other
way.
MHO.
Ken
On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 5:21 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:I second that! in spades… but the delight now of sailing her is
priceless not to mention the compliments of passersby in the marina.(you
can see my restoration articles here: http://www.dublerfamily.com)
By the way, when you put the boat in stands, be sure you understand
where
there is and is not support in the keel. Blocking at the back of the
keel
will crack the hull. There is plenty of discussion on this in the
archives
Quote:of the Pearson 424 group.Good luck,
PeteOn 5/30/2014 9:59 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:In my experience, the only way one can justify
refurbishing old boats like ours is as a labor of love.
If you won’t truly enjoy the process, the moment to
moment “doing” of it, don’t do it. Even if I were to
value my skilled labor at $.01/hour, I could never
recoup what I’ve got into Silverheels in time and
materials. As it is, however, I am repaid daily, even
when we’re in the boat yard and I’m hot & tired and the
damned 35-year-old bolt refuses to budge.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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On the 424, block the aft end of the keel and within the first 2 feet of
the front. Other than that, you’re asking for some serious repairs.Bob
On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 6:41 PM, Ken Page wrote:
I’m not sure what you mean Pete by NOT blocking at the back of the keel, I
just recently spent 3 very hard weeks of my life grinding and re-glassing
upside down under the boat and crouched down deep in the very skinny bilges
adding layers of glass repairing the keel of my boat because they didn’t
block the back and the front, they blocked the front (lead) and the middle
of the hollow part, thus breaking, the bottom of my boat This is where a
forum like this can create problems. Describing the particulars of things
gets very distorted from one owner to the other…..in words! Everyone
describes things a little differently and to be honest, I get very confused
here by so many different descriptions. I wish I could draw a picture of
what “I” dealt with and how “I” determined it happened. I would tell
someone MAKE SURE you block the front and back of the keel, not anywhere in
the “soft-spot” for lack of a better word.
During my intensive rebuild and repair of the keel, I felt the back or
very skinny end was sufficiently robust enough to support not ALL of the
weight but certainly an equal amount without breaking anything. I
understand the viewpoint of the crane operator not wanting to block to far
aft on that skinny little thing, as my crane operator whined, but a foot
forward of the end is quite enough to support the boat along with the lead
forward. No designer in his right mind would design a boat ANY other way.
MHO.Ken
On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 5:21 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:I second that! in spades… but the delight now of sailing her is
priceless not to mention the compliments of passersby in the marina.(you
can see my restoration articles here: http://www.dublerfamily.com)
By the way, when you put the boat in stands, be sure you understand where
there is and is not support in the keel. Blocking at the back of thekeel
will crack the hull. There is plenty of discussion on this in the
archives
Quote:of the Pearson 424 group.Good luck,
PeteOn 5/30/2014 9:59 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:In my experience, the only way one can justify
refurbishing old boats like ours is as a labor of love.
If you won’t truly enjoy the process, the moment to
moment “doing” of it, don’t do it. Even if I were to
value my skilled labor at $.01/hour, I could never
recoup what I’ve got into Silverheels in time and
materials. As it is, however, I am repaid daily, even
when we’re in the boat yard and I’m hot & tired and the
damned 35-year-old bolt refuses to budge.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 30, 2014 8:46 AM, “allantereshko”
wrote:I couldn’t find the link,also. If you would be so kind as to resend.
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Rich, normally I’d agree with you, but in this case the only difference
was color. Really, the specs were identical in every way.The bracket on these lights are designed such that they can rotate in only
two axis, with one the bolt through the spreader and one parallel to the
light.Even my 135 won’t hit them, I think although I could be wrong.
We’ll see. One thing I will do, however, is separate the mizzen from the
main so that I only have to light one set at a time.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 28, 2014 5:25 PM, wrote:Quote:Bob,
Interesting solution, but if I don’t pay top price for marine quality, I’m
not going to be satisfied (what am I saying, someone please whack me on the
back of the head).The spotlights I mounted were clear under the spreaders too, but the
headsail still pushed them back when tacking. If your headsail is smaller
than your foretriangle you may not have this problem. The fix was pretty
simple, just a short section of L-bracket mounted under the lamp using the
same faster that was used to hold the lamp. This prevents the lamp from
swiveling back.Rich
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No, but you can use the adhesive backed velcro for the job. The hard
backed stuff needs to be stapled. Get a roll of the high strength stuff
from Home Depot and just cut it. You don’t need to have the whole length
of the cushion (or you’ll not be able to get it off).Bob
On Wed, May 28, 2014 at 9:33 AM, Silverheels wrote:
In Silverheels’ main salon Pearson used hard-backed
Velcro to hold the settee backrest cushions in place.
Does anyone know where to buy that hard-backed Velcro?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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These lamps, Rich, are off road version of the marine ones – same
construction specs – and were $20 each. With six large LEDs each they can
do some lighting. They can be moved, but were tightened in place.
Moreover, because they fit completely under the spreader I think they’ll be
out of the way of the sails.At least that’s the plan…
Bob
On Wed, May 28, 2014 at 9:31 AM, wrote:
Quote:I replaced mine with a pair of marine LED deck-lights, not spreader
lights. They draw .4A. They are nowhere near as bright as what you show
but they are adequate and don’t even deflect the ammeter when they are on.
At $56ea, they are affordable and much less expensive than the LED
spreader lamps. I have no idea why the spreader lights are so much more
expensive.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312533&id=1845652They swivel, which is not a feature for a spreader light. The headsail
can press against the light when tacking. This will push the lamp back on
its swivel, illuminating the cockpit and not the foredeck. I cut a small
piece of aluminum angle bracket and attached it to the mounting base. This
holds the lamp from swiveling.The original deck lamps from Pearson were junk. They ate bulbs and sucked
down battery power when they worked.Rich
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I rarely use mine as well because of the 7 amp draw. Now with three for
each mast, I’ll be happy to use them regularly. I may even add a remote
control (did for a customer) so that while tooling around an anchorage I
can turn them on as I approach the boat.Bob
On Wed, May 28, 2014 at 8:46 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:As I suspected. A much kinder amp draw, for sure, and
so bright! Well done. I rarely use mine, drawing 9+amps
together, without the engine running.Tor
Quote:
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Tor, they are 18 watts a piece, or 1.5 amps at 12v. I’m going to separate
the mizzen fron the main so in your case, with the main only, 3 amps.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 28, 2014 7:40 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Bob,Wow! How much do they draw?
I mounted a pair of 55W sealed beam lamps under the main spreaders when I
re-wired the masts back in 2007, one fixed aiming straight down and one
swivel aimed at the foredeck. At that time they were about $9 and $18,
respectively, Port Supply prices. They draw 4.6A@12V apiece. I don’t use
them often, but when I do they’re a godsend. Mainly they’re for complex
deck chores offshore at night, and for lighting up the boat for sleepy
watch keepers on approaching ships.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Ken, the sloop and cutter were rigged the same except the sloop didn’t have
the staysail.Bob
On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 2:09 PM, Ken Page wrote:
Pat I’ll check when I get back to the boat, I think my sail plan is for the
cutter. I definitely have the tall mast and someone recently said that was
the cutter but I see no evidence that my boat was ever rigged as a cutter.Ken
On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 9:12 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
I have copies of the sail plan for the ketch ( because I own one ) and
one
for the sloop nbrs 1-205… but not for the cutter or the sloop #206 or
later … I have questions…Does anyone if the later sloops were the tall masted ones and that’s why
their numbers were different?
If you have a copy of either the cutter or later sloop, can we talk
offline either by phone or via email? i have some questions …thanks much
– pat
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Also those winches are ankle wackers. And way oversized. I added new
winches near the helm and use them with turning blocks on the combing.On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 9:22 AM, wrote:
Quote:Tor,
I think Pearson built the earlier sloops as ketches and let the owner
decide if they wanted a ketch or sloop at the time of the sale. There is
basically no difference between the boats except the extra stick. My
winches are probably in the same position as yours. I can’t reach them
from the wheel. I should move them. You have no issue with the sheets
running clear to the jib car?Having the winches forward on the combing works when you have crew. The
helmsman can stand on either side of the wheel with no interference while
the crew sits forward and trims. Shorthanded however it’s awkward.Please let us know if your backstay tensioner works.
Rich
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Hello Jason,
The ketch is a well balanced vessel and above about 12-15 knots the main
becomes unnecessary if you have a cutter rig (inner forestay), otherwise
you can carry the main up to 18-20 knots. The mizzen is far more than a
balancing sail allowing the boat to sail quite well under jib and jigger
(jib and mizzen).You can put a windvane on a ketch with no problems (mine had one, but I
opted for davits) in addition, you can get the offset steering gear that
Tor has on Silverheels.Converting a ketch is a terrible idea. The main mast is in a different
place, and you’re not likely to move it. Moreover, the ketch rig will pass
under a 49′ bridge where the sloop may not. A ketch is a far more
manageable rig for short handing, and if I were to recommend anything, it
would be to add a staysail.The Westerbeke 58 is perfectly adequate, although some of us have upgraded
to larger engines. I go hull speed at 2200 rpm which is about 80% of full
throttle and that’s the recommended loading for the most efficient use of
diesels.Hope this helps,
Bob
On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 2:46 PM,
wrote:Cutter/Sloop VS Ketch
Author:
Hello all, my wife and I are looking at several P424’s available on the
market today. I’m in love with the aft cabin/aft cockpit layout. I’ve
usually seen it as a ketch though. In looking over the sail and rigging
plan, I it appears to me that the mizzen is a bit too short and small to be
affective as anything other than a heavy wind/storm sail stabilizer. I am
also planning to install a self steering vane and the boom’s extension off
the stern would make this difficult. So, if we bought a ketch – we would
likely convert it.Has anyone converted their ketch to a sloop and/or cutter? I know they
offered a cutter model but they are few and far between with the interior
layout we prefer. That said, I’m hoping someone can answer these questions:Does the mast need to be moved aft to properly balance the rig?
OR was extending the boom enough?
How long is the boom “normally” in the sloop rig?
If you own a sloop/cutter rig, have you found any REAL value in a backstay
tensioner?
Several p424’s I’ve looked at have a 40-50hp Westerbeke in them – is that
engine truly powerful enough to push the boat at hullspeed without being at
OPEN throttle?Thanks for your help. MY wife and I built a Rhodes 34 and sailed the
bahamas for the last year or so, but we are now looking to upgrade and have
room to grow the family. This seems like the perfect boat and meets most of
my offshore criteria, and meets most of her layout criteria.Thanks!!!
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