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Lanocoat – great for everything, including putting impellers in!
On Sat, May 24, 2014 at 7:59 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:If you put stainless steel screws or bolts into the
aluminum mast, coat each one with LanoCote before
screwing it in. It will last many years longer and will
probably still unscrew 10 years from now. Otherwise,
electrolysis will weld the dissimilar metals together
and eventually destroy one of them. (Bob, you’ll know
which metal it’ll eat, I’m sure.)Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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STAINLESS SCREWS.
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 24, 2014 3:12 PM, “Page Two” wrote:Bob, I’ve looked at the Mast Mate but am disappointed that you need a
track, all I have is a slot. I beieve I’m going with Sea Dog folding
aluminum steps…http://www.go2marine.com/product/209836F/sea-dog-line-folding-mast-step-aluminum.html
…and bummed I can’t find any at the price they used to be. Has any one
used them and did you use threaded SS screws or pop rivets? I don’t think I
will go pop rivets figuring they could weaken after lots of use. The only
issue I see with screws is they need to be exactly the right length and
carefully filed smooth as to not interfere with internal halyards.Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
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Hey, before you go to seadog, go to marinepartsdepot.com and see if they
still have folding steps. I have two for the mizzen.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 24, 2014 3:12 PM, “Page Two” wrote:Bob, I’ve looked at the Mast Mate but am disappointed that you need a
track, all I have is a slot. I beieve I’m going with Sea Dog folding
aluminum steps…http://www.go2marine.com/product/209836F/sea-dog-line-folding-mast-step-aluminum.html
…and bummed I can’t find any at the price they used to be. Has any one
used them and did you use threaded SS screws or pop rivets? I don’t think I
will go pop rivets figuring they could weaken after lots of use. The only
issue I see with screws is they need to be exactly the right length and
carefully filed smooth as to not interfere with internal halyards.Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
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I love Stuart! You have to go to American Barbeque (I think) on the north
side of the river. I forget, but there’s a day in the week where you can
get all you can eat for like $18.Bob
On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 6:37 PM, Page Two wrote:
Got myself up there…only three rest stops. Vicky was nervous for me, I
was nervous for her being nervous for me!The damage minimal, transducer needs a new 5 point pin, cuppy things
(that’s what we call them) and a direction plastic thingy too. Maybe $50
total.Mast head height…51′ from the water.
add 5″ for anchor light
add 16″ for wind vane and wind transducer (damaged part)
add 24″ for lightning dissipate thingy
add 32″ for VHF antenna
subtract 6″ to 8″ for VHF antenna bendability and I can safely call it….53′ MAX
So no doubt I have the cutter rig. I marked all paperwork aboard
accordingly.I will get steps….for sure.
There are two 424’s here in Stuart, FL, anyone else nearby for a possible
rendezvous?Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I use a brilliant product called Mast Mate which is a nylon web ladder that
goes up with slides in the track. Sadly, the mizzen track takes 3/4″
slides and the main 7/8″ so I have two. I also use them all the time on
customer’s boats. It’s the only product that will allow you to stand over
the top of the mast.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 22, 2014 1:13 PM, “Alan” wrote:Singlehander here too. Been up the mast using steps a lot. In calm waters
using autopilot. A blast. Esp to take pictures.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 22, 2014, at 10:32 AM, “cstewart”
wrote:
Tor. Since I think of you as a singlehander, I am wondering how you do
that mast/ bridge thing.
“People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to losesight of the shore.”
Andre Gide 1869-1951
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The W58 and the W60 are two different engines. The W58 is a Perkins 4-154
Series 200.Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2014 at 7:59 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
having done a search on the old forum for W60 I found a few things
1) according to Rich Carter some years back
[ https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=978&highlight=w60 ]
I assume you’re asking where the block originally comes from. As I
remember, it started life as a British Leyland motor used in cabs during
the ’50s and ’60s. It may have also been used in some Land-Rover vehicles
of that time. Production of the marinized version ended in the late ’70s.
At that time, Pearson bought up a bunch of them at a discount to fit out
their existing schedule of 424’s.2) more info from Walter
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=1415&highlight=w603) Chuck Ruble rebuilt one completely in 2008.
Happy hunting,
– pat
marcus hawkfeather wrote, On 5/21/14, 10:45 AM:
Hello Pearson org,
I have sailboat silent joy and am wondering about this westerbeke 58 hp
engine. I have been told this is a perkins engine. anyone know the real
make and model of the westerbeke 60?thanks
mark
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Depth is measured by the mean low of low. Bridge clearance is the mean high
of highs, normally averages of spring and neap tided.Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 21, 2014 7:48 PM, “pat noordsij” wrote:Are these waters tidal? How does the ac of e list the bridge clearance?
mean high water? those of us in the great lakes would be clueless about
this… we have seiches but no tides – ..according to docs
[listed: https://www.pearson424.org/tiki/tiki-index.php?page=
Rigging%20Information]
Ketch:
Mast height above WL: 48′ 10″ (14.88m)Cutter:
Mast height above WL: 51′ 8″for some reason I don’t have those measurements from a Sloop rigged boat
I believe, however, all bets would be off if you have in mast furling
because chances are your rig is non-standard– pat
Page Two wrote, On 5/21/14, 3:22 PM:
If the Army Corp of Engineers are accurate with their numbers my masthead
(no instruments etc) is just above or right at 51′. My wind transducer
sticks straight out from the masthead, maybe an inch above and that’s what
we hit right at the bottom of the bridge.
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My ketch is exactly 48.5 feet above the water because I measured it and
because I fit under the Malaca lift bridge at 49.1 feet with the antenna
down.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 21, 2014 6:04 PM, “Page Two” wrote:Rich,
I found some other numbers in my sail plan drawings that coincide with the
original booklet numbers of 48′ 9″. Someone of the past PO’s drew a mast
with dimensions from the top of the grease cap (roller furling only) on the
masthead to the mast step….50′ 10″ and a height of 7′ 5″ from the step to
the cabintop. That might have been drawn by using the numbers in the book,
I don’t know. By my rough calculations my mast step is about 2′ 4″ below
the water line. Close enough to make me believe that 48′ 9″. But until I
get up there and do my own measuring as is, in the water, I believe the
Army Corp of Engineers have a pretty good grasp of the numbers controlling
the Okeechobee.
I must be in the short rig group for sure because we went under bridges
that showed 55ish’ by reading the scales at the bridge. We never touched
the VHF antenna but damn it looked close as it always does.Ken
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That should do it!
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 14, 2014 9:11 PM, “skipmac” wrote:madsailor wrote:
I think you can just up the voltage on your old board stretcher.
That will do the trick. The stretcher is 12V DC. I’ll plug it into 240V
AC. Should give me 20 times more power. Might even be good enough to
stretch titanium._______________________________________________
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I think you can just up the voltage on your old board stretcher.
On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 5:25 PM, skipmac wrote:
cstewart wrote:
What if it is too long?
(just said that to give you something else to think about)Too long I got a grinder to fix that, Too short I don’t think my board
stretcher works on stainless and my wife won’t let me buy a new steel
stretcher._______________________________________________
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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If it’s too long, before you put the last couple of screws in, push it into
place. Mark where you want it, use a dremel tool to cut it properly (or if
you’re good with a hacksaw use that). Then finish screwing it down.
You’ll want to drill a hole about 1/2 to 1″ from the end, small enough to
be a pilot hole for the screw you’re going to use, and then use a
countersink to put the countersink into the strip. Put the final screw
in. Go have a beer or two.On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 4:58 PM, cstewart wrote:
What if it is too long?
(just said that to give you something else to think about)
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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It’s called a triatic stay. I forgot about that…
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 13, 2014 3:46 PM, “cstewart” wrote:Regarding backstay adjuster, I have tried to figure a way to do that with
the Ketch rig. I guess you could put two pulleys on the split backstay and
when you put tension on them, it would tend to rake the main mast some. Of
course the mizzen and main mast are attached at the top (whatever that
thing is called) so the mizzen would be affected. I believe it would help
pointing if you moved it just ever so slightly enough to take the slack out
of the forestay/genoa. I do move the main sheet traveler to windward all
the way to line up with the right side of the companionway. Then I put a
cheater block on the mizzen sheet to move it to windward also. That seems
to help. You can then let the sheets out a tad to keep it from pinching,
yet still keep your sails full. When my sloopy friends ask if the mizzen
does any good I tell them it is like having a Catalina 22 behind me pushing.
Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Murphy’s Oil Soap, since all my teak is finished.
Bob
On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Silverheels wrote:
What oil are you using on the teak belowdecks. Why?
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I am ignoring this. No, not really.
On Sat, May 10, 2014 at 6:34 PM, patn wrote:
Getting closer – new web stuff
Author: patn
Another message for you to ignore..
thanks
– pat
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You can tension the split backstay with a block running on each side
connected together with a third block with a becket on a loop of dyneema or
amsteel line. Then you have a block down on one side of the split so that
when you tension the line it actually squeezes the backstays together.But I’d be leery of putting too much tension on it.
Bob
On Fri, May 9, 2014 at 4:21 PM, wrote:
Quote:Tor
I can probably outpoint you but the ketch looks cooler. The sloop kind of
looks funny with the short rig placed up forward.Rich
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