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Hi Tor,
That's right – I forgot the spray can. I have to get me one. Add that to the list. I wonder if they're on sale now…
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
Going south this year, then maybe the Great Loop with my cousin, then England and beyond.
I can tell you that my electrical system will be the biggest expense besides safety on the boat – Shaft generator: $1000, solar panels: $1,500 plus mounting parts, generator (2000EUi) $895, new alternators and regulators: $700, 1 new AGM 4D: $200. All the power I'll ever need: Priceless. I'm most enthralled with the shaft generator, though. Whenever sailing, I'll get power. I know a wind generator might be a better use of energy, but I really hate high speed rotating machinery near where my beloved head is. Sure, it's on the mizzen — for now. But when that rotor fails in 70kts and I'm somewhere under it… That may be foolish, and probably is, but hey, we all have our issues. Mine is decapitation.
Anyway, I do hope we meet next fall! In the meantime, it our boat bucks that keep the whole economy going! Forget the bailout, forget the 700 billion dollars – it's our boating 1k here, 1k there that will make America strong again!
I suppose down south getting a hot shower is more a matter of standing in the shower. Getting a cool one is more the issue, so you're right, who needs hot water?
My point about wind and solar, though, is that they absolutely do not perform to their specifications – not unusual, but many people are disappointed by the fact. They expect 8 amps out of a 100 watt solar panel. At best you should expect an average of 4 amps. Wind generators are similar – a 400 watt generator will produce on average 100 watts or less, unless you live in a constant 20-25kt breeze. Winter in the Bahamas…
Anyway, my friend, we'll compare power generation and liquor lockers I hope.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
The generator is less than $900 with shipping online. I have one and love it. Oil changes are messy at best, a horror show at worst. Fortunately, they're far between. Bring lots of absorbent pads.
Other than that, it's probably close – I have never thought of it that way as I'm paying as I go. Whatever it costs, it costs. If I can't afford it now then I'll seek another avenue for what I'm trying to do.
You probably won't run the generator 400 hours a year. Remember, you're using the engine quite a bit even though you hope not to. A better way to calculate this would be to figure out your electricity budget then using standard assumptions like the solar panels providing 1/3 their output on average for 8 hours a day, wind generator providing 1/3 it's rated capacity 24 hours a day, and the generator or alternator providing the rest of the power.
You may find that the budget you've considered isn't enough or is too much. Changing your lighting to LED's, for instance, allows you to read at night without worry, use your anchor light and consume an amp a night.
I think you'll find you run your generator more to heat the water or watch TV than anything else. From personal experience, I find my power usage cruising naturally decreases, but that may not be true in southern climes where nighttime temperatures are not comfortable.
For instance, when I was living on a mooring, I could easily go a full work week without the generator or engine running. That included a small (35 qt) portable refrigerator but not the big ships one.
Well, that's all I have to say about that. I hope to meet you on the water next winter and we'll share electrifying stories…
Bob
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 11:58 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I'm in the process of beefing up and adding to Silver Heels' recharging systems. This being a (relatively) chilly, (very) rainy day here in NE Florida, I decided to sit by the heater and figure out what electricity is likely to cost me once I take off cruising full-time on Silver Heels. Here's what I came up with. Would be interested to hear other opinions.$ 200 Honda EU2000iA portable generator depreciation: $1,000 / 5 year lifespan
200 Generator gasoline: 1.5 cups/hr x 400 hrs/yr = 40 gal x $5/gal
100 Battery charger depreciation: $1,000 / 10 year lifespan
100 Alternator/regulator depreciation: $500 / 5 year lifespan
100 Wind generator depreciation: $1,000 / 10 year lifespan
100 Solar panels depreciation: $1,000 / 10 year lifespan
+ 200 Batteries depreciation: $1,000 / 5 year lifespan
$1,000 Total estimated annual cost of electricity
What do you think? Am I close? What did I forget?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Rich,
That's open circuit voltage. With a solar controller (which you absolutely, positively must have without a doubt), you'll never get that high. Under any load at all, it's 17.5 volts. With a controller, it will never be higher than the battery's voltage.
Bob
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 3:14 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Voltage is a little high, 21.5V.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Or, you could use this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Solar-Cynergy-120-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ350150323008QQcmdZViewItem
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 2:53 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,What's the web site for your Solar Cynergy panels?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
I'll have to get it from my friend, Cory.
Bob
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 2:53 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,What's the web site for your Solar Cynergy panels?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
Well, really, I'll be using an electro-hydraulic system to extend and retract the panels at the press of a button. I will have a backup steam generator for providing power to the turbines that run both the generators and hydraulic pumps. In addition, I will be making space under the cabin sole for a 10,000 gallon fuel tank to provide enough onboard fuel for the boilers.
Just kidding – it will be a simple lift-and-lock frame, I hope. In those nights when I can't sleep, I dream this stuff up.
Bob
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 2:50 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,I could use a wider panel if I were willing to let it extend aft beyond the davits, but I think that'd be an inevitable crunch just waiting to happen. Your idea of folding down over the transom is interesting. Will check back with you in a few years and see how it worked out.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Lee,
They are: Solar Cynergy 120 Watt 12 Volt Solar Panels – the reason is their size and cost. They are smaller than the 100 watt panel I currently have. They are also less affected than shade (most new panels are like that). I am purchasing 3 with my friend who is also purchasing 3 for his trawler. So we're working on a fair discount.
Bob
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 2:05 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob, who made your panels and what characteristics drove your decision for this particular brand?Lee
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
I'm purchasing 3 120 watt panels this winter, one to replace the one on the dodger, and two that will hang off the stern with a frame I'm designing that will allow them to be folded down against the transom or deployed like tail feathers. I have a Monitor windvane so davits are not an issue. Also, my boarding ladders are midships.
The panels are 52″ x 21″ x 2″ or so and I am flexible with the positioning (I also have an idea for cabin top deployment.
Bob
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 1:25 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Aaron. I hadn't thought of raising the cross bar, although I don't see an advantage here the way my davits set. My dink hangs far enough beneath the davits level that I don't think a panel will interfere. As for letting the panel overhang the boat, even raised up it would become a guaranteed head-banger for anyone using the stern boarding ladder. No doubt your arrangement back there is different than mine.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Rich,
I'd happily join but for the lack of license and the fact the radio is still being installed…
Bob
On Mon, Jan 5, 2009 at 4:50 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Would there be interest in having an occasional chat-net on the amateur 40 meter band? I've been thinking of setting up something. If there's enough interest, I'd be willing to act as net control at least for the first session. I was thinking of trying this Saturday evening.
—
Rich Carter
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pete,
You're gonna love this.
I went to Radio Shack and got a couple of ferrite cores to put on the lines right next to the Xantrex. No joy. So I opened the case to see if there was something I could see (feel) that I could point to to the Xantrex people.
Also, no joy.
But one of the posts that holds the cover to the unit was loose. I tightened it and checked the other tight and hey! Presto! Interference dropped below that of the regular background noise on the radio. I checked with my handheld. Also good.
Just to be sure I've got it, I'll check again tomorrow, but this is the best it's ever been.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hey, Don,
Why not list them here first and see if there are any takers?
Bob
On Sun, Dec 28, 2008 at 12:46 PM, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Just a heads up– I have or will be listing some 424 parts (Shaft Break, Autopilot, Refer Controls, Brass Lamp, Splicing Wand) on e-bay over the next week.
Don
Syringa—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pete,
Thanks for the info – I'm pretty sure it's radiated RFI. Here's why: Today the Xantrex 2000 for some reason locked up. No RFI. I reset it by powering it down and up (remove and replace fuse). Hey, Presto! RFI is back.
There is already a ferrite core on the sensing cables – it did nothing to help the problem.
I only thought of replacing the control cable because it's too long by many feet and it sits coiled next to the Freedom 2000. Now, follow my thinking here: Even though a cat 6 or cat 5 cable has too many conductors, it is randomly twisted – I can make one with two pairs and a shield that I'll connect to the Xantrex case. By taking two pairs and switching the ground of the pair you'll end up with a straight thru cable that stops near-end crosstalk.
Also, by making it the appropriate length, that's a help, too, as there's no coil antenna laying about.
That all said, though, the strongest signal is at the Xantrex itself.
So, I'll be experimenting. I may just try grounding the Xantrex case and see what happens.
Thanks again!
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Rich,
Thanks! I'm going to research more on this – and get the ARRL book(s). I'll let you know how it goes.
As it turns out, the device has inputs that are all twisted wires, but the controller cable is a 'silver satin' phone wire. I'm thinking that is acting like an antenna and will try replacing it with a much shorter CAT 6E cable. The CAT 6 is shielded twisted pair which should minimize the RFI.
More on that later.
Bob
On Sun, Dec 28, 2008 at 10:48 AM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
Since you get noise on a handheld radio, I assume that the noise is not resulting from hash on your 12v DC lines. It sounds like the battery monitor is radiating. If the RFI is directly from the battery monitor, there is little that you can do. By federal law, the manufacturer is required to build and sell stuff that doesn't radiate, but many manufacturers don't understand RFI and have no clue how to reduce it. It takes a degree in EE and black magic to get RF noise down. If you can put the stuff inside a metal enclosure you might reduce noise, but chances are you can't do this.You might get a copy of the ARRL handbook and read the section on EMI. If you don't want to purchase the book, you can probably borrow a copy from your local library.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich – KE1EVQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Somewhere I've seen an article about the tangling of chains. I can't find it now, of course, but experience has shown me (and Tor, too) that piled chains don't tangle or don't tangle easily. Unlike nylon rode which can form loops within loops due to variable stiffness along the length, chain has no flexural stiffness and so can't fold underneath itself.
Of course, when trying to anchor in heavy wind and seas, this may change because you need the chain to pay out smoothly.
The biggest problem is the piling up against the feeder from the windlass. That can jam all too easily.
My windlass is forward of the anchor locker hatch stacked about 2″ off the deck with HDPE blocks. It seems to work ok, but I'd like it to be a little higher as the chain lead is not as straight as I like.
Bob
On Sun, Dec 28, 2008 at 10:22 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:You're absolutely right about the angle and height needed, Alan. However, I carry lots of chain on my cruising boats and the pile invariably topples over in the locker while I'm retrieving the anchors, yet I've never had it become tangled as a result.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
