[madsailor]

Hi James,

Here's what I'd add to that, although I think Rich will disagree. First, unbond all those through hull fittings. Bonding them ensures they will become part of a bad electrical circuit, and will corrode. I would be very worried if there was an issue with them.

Rub all your through hull fittings with a 120 grit sandpaper, preferably wet-or-dry type. If they show the slightest pinkness (you'll see it, believe me) then they need replacement, no if, ands, or buts. They should show a golden yellow. I happen to like the Marelon valves. Rich, I think, prefers bronze. Marelon never ever corrodes. Bronze, of course, does. Marelon is less expensive than bronze. Freezing is an issue with Marelon and bronze, but my hunch is that Marelon doesn't split like bronze does. It may crack but when pressure is released it will go back to its former shape. It will still leak, but not as disasterously.

In the Pearson, the electrical grounds, bonding system, and AC grounds are all tied together. This is not so good. In fact, it's really frowned on now. Easily dealt with, but most don't bother.

Again, my two cents.

Bob

On Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 2:05 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

James
You have a problem. I assume that the zincs hadn't been serviced in 3 years. While it wouldn't be unusual for zincs to fail within a 3 year period, its a very bad idea to allow them to dissolve and leave the boat unprotected. The bronze through hulls, rudder shaft, cutless bearing, and any other below-waterline metal fittings that I missed may have been damaged. In addition, your engine heat exchanger and V-drive case may have been damaged. Since the paint in the vacinity of the through-hulls was damaged, I would wonder if there is an electrical problem with the AC power serivce in your marina.

Don't panic yet, the boat is well built and you may have caught the problem in time. I would suggest having the metal fittings inspected however, both inside and outside the hull. Don't forget to service your engine zinc too if you have one. My guess is that you might endup replacing your shaft and prop but the through-hulls will all look OK.

Zincs normally last 6 to 12 months. If you're going to leave the boat for an extended period of time, its a good idea to drop in a zinc-fish. This is a zinc plate on a wire cable that clamps to your rigging. You drop it over the side to add extra protection.

Rich
BlackSheep #47

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[madsailor]

Hi Rich,

I'm sure you have a link to the pictures of this. Would you mind providing it (again)?

Thanks,

Bob

On Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 9:04 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

We've had this discussion before. Please excuse me if I sound like I'm repeating myself. I moved my house batteries to the bilge shelf just forward of the sump. I removed the battery box in the starboard locker and glassed in a new box. The downside is that severe flooding could submerge your batteries. If it floods enough to submerge the batteries, the engine and related machinery will be partially submerged too, so you have bigger problems than a damaged battery. BTW, the batteries will still work, they just won't charge. I know this because I had this happen to my dinghy battery. Dunking isn't an issue with sealed batteries like AGM.

Putting the batteries over the keel puts the weight where it does some good and frees up quite a lot of storage space. The compartment is huge. There's stuff down there that we never see unless we clean out the locker. Its a bit of a run from the selector switch, but 2/0 wire can handle the load.

I keep a starter battery on the shelf inside the aft hanging locker. Even if the main bank gets submerged, I can still start the engine, assuming that the dipstick doesn't leak water into the crankcase.

Rich
BlackSheep #47

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[madsailor]

I have two 4-Ds in the standard starboard battery boxes and 2 4-Ds in the locker aft of the water heater. Three 4-Ds are the house bank, 1 4-D is the reserve bank. I use the Xantrex 2000 as a monitor/controller and the Freedom 2000 inverter/charger attached to the house bank and the echo charger attached to the reserve bank.

I think either Tor or Rich or Walter have moved all their batteries to the locker aft of the water heater using 4 6 volt traction batteries.

All my batteries are AGM.

I would like to move the lazerette batteries lower down but lack the room anywhere to put them. I have an idea – build a bench for the nav station that holds them but it is way down the list of stuff I have to do.

Bob

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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[madsailor]

Hi Alan,

Yesterday I pretty much just fooled around.. Well, no, I put in inspection plates aft of both settee water tanks and on under the seat in the shower. But other than that…

So, this morning I took some pictures. Tor, if you're reading this, I'm getting to yours, too.

I took pictures of the back side of the C-80, the mounting of the ST-6002 autopilot in the electrical locker (the box above it is the Sirius weather package – don't waste your money), the instruments mounted in the bridge deck and the radar and C80 mounting. I think you'll be able to figure out which is which. The radar is a Pathfinder RL70, and down in the nav station connected with the HSB will be a RL70C. In addition, I'll have a separate GPS antenna to serve these two.

You may ask why. I want two independent navigation systems available. By simply moving a plug the RL70 series can control the autopilot. I may be crazy, but the effort and expense expended for this was only $650. So it's worth it.

I hope that helps. If you have any questions about the electrical installation or how it all works, I'll be happy to help you.

Bob

On Sun, Jan 18, 2009 at 8:50 AM, alan P wrote:

Bob, Were you able to take some pictures of your setup….. that would be great.
thanks
alan

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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[madsailor]

I agree, Quent. It is hard to read, but with a larger wheel (48″) I've found I can sit comfortably on the coaming or seat and steer and read the C80. I can always see the ST-60's (wind, speed, depth, autopilot). I would have rather put the thing on the binnacle, but I cheaped out because I'd've needed new everything.

Bob

On Sat, Jan 17, 2009 at 12:20 PM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:

We have a C-80 and Nexus insturments at the wheel on pods attached to the ped guard. Claire just barely sees over the display. C-80 is lower, just above compass.
We have sailed boats with C-80 or E-80 mounted on forward end of cockpit. It is difficult to read with bifocals and a stiff neck. At the wheel is much better.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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[madsailor]

Hey, don't knock alcohol stoves – I had them in all my boats and other than almost setting the boat on fire on January 1st while boiling water for tea, they've been great. Especially my last Galley Mate. It looked like it had been put together by a high school shop class but boy, oh boy, that thing cooked like propane. And you could make your own burners by visiting Home Depot for a few fittings and a MAP gas torch.

LPG, is, as you say Tor, a well known fuel with well known limitations. By making sure your generator is well vented overboard and not to the bilge you should be able to run it quite successfully on LPG. The question is whether it's worth it. As easy as it is to get LPG world wide, it is far easier to get regular gasoline. Moreover, if you want to have a party on the beach and want to run stereos, guitars, amplifiers or portable refrigerators any one attending can get you some gas, depending on how late it is and how drunk everyone is. Getting a propane tank is less easy.

If you're carrying gas for your outboard, you've already solved the fuel storage problem so why make new problems for yourself? If you're just rowing, then I stick with the portability issue.

My two cents that are probably not worth even that. But I got them from the 700 billion bailout.

Bob

On Sat, Jan 17, 2009 at 9:52 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Don,

If by LGP you meant LPG, then what you say about it is, of course, true and well known. Still, that doesn't negate it as a practical fuel aboard a boat. Ever try cooking on an alcohol stove?

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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[madsailor]

Really? My door is trapezoidal and holds on with wood 'L's (Lift and pull). I like the hinge idea much better.

On Fri, Jan 16, 2009 at 1:03 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks all for great suggestions!

Aaron, unfortunately I'm on the East coast, but that outlet sounds great!

Rich- The door is rectangular and lies flat, closing with a piano hinge on one side and a lock hasp on the other.

Rodd

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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[madsailor]

Hi Alan,

I have a C80 flush mounted in the coach roof on the starboard side of the companionway. I have an RL70 mounted on top of the coach roof under the dodger on the starboard side. I have not yet enclosed the back of the C80 above and aft of the nav station but will real soon now. All of my instruments (speed, depth, wind and autopilot) are mounted on the slight angle of the cockpit bridge deck and communicate with the C80. I can send pictures if you like.

Bob

OnFri, Jan 16, 2009 at 8:16 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Does anyone out there have a Raymaine C or E Multifuntion Display? Where do you have it located? I have an oppurtunity to get an E80. I am thinking of mounting it in the coach roof below the doger. Curious of cables and such…. and a little about having it exposed…to theives

Alan

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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[madsailor]

If you are willing to spend time, you can use ipe (ee-pay) which is very hard and dense. You will have to drill all fastener holes and it is hard on planer blades but is very weather resistant and very strong. Failing that, you could use 1/2″ marine plywood with teak veneer and epoxy coat it before varnishing.

I would probably use HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) or UDPE (Ultrahigh Density…) which are both available inexpensively at plastic supply places – they are off white and will yellow in sunlight eventually but will not rot, chip, crack, warp, check or anything else for about a million years. They are easily machineable, but will require you use nuts and washers where you attach the piano hinge.

That's all the suggestions I have.

Bob

On Fri, Jan 16, 2009 at 8:04 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I get all my teak from
http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/
good prices I think, fast delivery and easy to work with

Alan
— On Fri, 1/16/09, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:

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[madsailor]

I apply it to all my ducks. Keeps 'em in line.

On Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 9:40 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Uhhhm, what application in duck work does your tape have?

It’s duct tape, and it is used to seal tin (now steel) air conditioning and heating ducts. Duck tape was/is a particular brand of duct tape, but I think it came along after people commonly called it that anyway.

On 1/14/09 11:33 AM, () wrote :
Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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[madsailor]

HI Linus,

I store my gasoline in the cockpit next to the generator between the mizzen and binnacle. I'm not crazy about storing it in lockers. If I had a 5 gallon can, I'd store it on deck behind the life raft.

Bob

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 4:43 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I too have a small Honda generator. I wanted to know where most folks keep the gas on the boat. I remember seeing outboard tanks stored in the anchor locker on one boat. I've seen generators stored in the shower. With the fumes from gasoline where is the safest place to store the gas cans and the small generator?

Linus

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[madsailor]

Hi Rich,

In the Navy, before it was popular for repairing everything from car fenders to guitars and the bridge of glasses, it was called duct tape and HP tape (although the new silver stuff isn't all that HP). It was said that you could repair a 1200lb steam leak with 10 wraps. Impressive when you consider you'd search for a steam leak with a broomstick (when it got cut off, you found the leak).

Bob

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 2:33 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I think I've said this before, but here goes again for anyone who might have missed it.

I probably have the cheapest and easiest mast boot and it never leaks. I wrap a kitchen sized plastic trash bag around the mast. Then I wrap that with duck tape starting at the bottom until the tape covers the plastic and wraps onto the mast. I make sure that it fits snug around the base and the tape should stick to the deck plate. I then place a canvas cover over the mast boot. This is strictly for appearances and to keep sunlight off the duck tape. West Marine used to sell these canvas covers, but I don't see them in the catalog anymore. Mine is about 20 years old and probably needs replacement. It would be simple to sew one up. If the duck tape sticks up above the canvas, I wrap some white chafe tape around what shows. I've never had a leak unless the aluminum deck plate needs recaulking.

(There's two spellings for this tape, duct tape and duck tape. Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.)

Rich

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[madsailor]

Hi John,

Get the 4″ roll, or 6″ if you can – much easier, less wraps.

Bob

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 9:07 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Bob,
Neat solution. The stuff is so cheap you probably don't need to worry about UV – just replace the stuff annually or sooner. I priced a 35'x1″ roll on Amazon.com for less than $2.00. I'll give it a try the next time have to seal the partners.

John

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi All,

You'll love this: if you have access to heat shrink tape, you can seal the outside of the mast with that over the partners clamped then heat with hot air gun for a professional look. Cheap, easy, and totally UV protected. Comes in white, blue, or clear (although I don't see the point of clear for this application). If sealed properly (and easy to re-do) will not leak. Sure, not very salty (rubber impregnated canvas), but after struggling with all the cock-a-mayme mast boots I've dealt with over the years, this is the best.

If you need two layers, do the bottom around the partners first, then overlap the top on the mast second. Ba-da-boom, ba-da-bing, fuggeddabouddit.

Bob

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi All,

You'll love this: if you have access to heat shrink tape, you can seal the outside of the mast with that over the partners clamped then heat with hot air gun for a professional look. Cheap, easy, and totally UV protected. Comes in white, blue, or clear (although I don't see the point of clear for this application). If sealed properly (and easy to re-do) will not leak. Sure, not very salty (rubber impregnated canvas), but after struggling with all the cock-a-mayme mast boots I've dealt with over the years, this is the best.

If you need two layers, do the bottom around the partners first, then overlap the top on the mast second. Ba-da-boom, ba-da-bing, fuggeddabouddit.

Bob

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hey, Lee, is the water running down the inside or outside of the mast? That's a key issue.

Bob

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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