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Honestly, I don't remember except maybe the Bomars were lift latches and the other one is a slide one. If you have a WM near you, have a look at what they have. It really doesn't matter. Maybe it's the bomar doesn't have a hidden flange where the other does. It's all personal preferences. You must need something at WM, right?
Bob
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 3:40 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:What's the difference between the latches?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Pete,
I use those vacuum bags for my stuff – they make them now so you don't need an actual vacuum cleaner and it really does reduce the volume magnificently. For like 29.00 you get a slew of them. I think you can get them at https://www.spacebag.com/spacebag/901763/
They work surprisingly well.
Bob
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 11:51 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
We put a shelf in the bottom of ours, painted the fiberglass white, and got a bunch of large plastic containers from wal-mart to hold all our linens. With a combination of two sizes (deep and not so deep), we can fill the volume pretty much solid with containers full of linens. The nice thing about the sealed container is if you put a dryer sheet in each one, your linens stay nice and fresh.
Pete
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi Tor,
I have a Temptress – I like the latch better than the Bomar, but they're both fine.
Bob
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 10:54 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Bob. I find these two choices at Port Supply. Anybody know why one might be better than the other (aside from the small price difference)?Bomar Access Hatch
Opening = 11.1/16″ x 20.1/16″
Flange O.D. = 13.3/4″ x 23.1/2″
Mfg. No. G71020–W
Port Supply No. 1960210
$61.49Temptress Access Hatch, Slam Latch, White
13″W x 23″L
Mfg. No. 44430
Port Supply No. 490540
$67.99Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
I put in an 11 x 15″ hatch. Pete Dubler put in a bigger one – I'm sorry I didn't put a bigger one in, but there you are. It does.
Bomar makes some nice hatches – you can go 15 x 20 or so with no difficulty. I plan on also putting a smaller hatch/inspection plate at the base of the tub where there's some storage space.
Bob
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 8:35 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bill,What are the dimensions (or the WM part number) of the shower stall access hatch you installed?
Thanks,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I have three 4D-AGMs as my house bank (2 in stbd locker, one behind water heater) and a group 31 for the starter battery/bank 2. I bought them at a place on City Island, NY – the 4Ds were 275 each. Do they say 'Marine'? No, they don't. But they're heavy duty 200AH batteries.
There is nothing inherently different between a 'marine' or 'rv' or 'heavy duty deep discharge' AGM battery (also, for flooded cells, ditto).
You are always welcome to spend 50% to 100% more to get the 'marine' name.
I would like to have a 4D as the starter battery, but I don't have the room.
Bob
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 9:09 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Adam,How did you come up with $2,000+ for AGM's? That seems very high. The Port Supply price for Group 31 (105 Ah) AGM's is $147.99 ea. Four of those ($592) plus one Group 27 starter battery ($135) totals $727.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I replaced mine with a two knob system with 4″ centers. Works ok. Should have done it with a mixer.
There is a tremendous space outboard of the shower. I and many others have put watertight access hatches there. When cutting the hole just realize that whatever you cut out will end up under the shower in an unreachable place. That's happened to at least two people, myself included. I store blankets and comforters for guests. Sheets and sweaters, too.
I plan on putting another access hatch below the little tub for storing shampoo and my 'Absorber' fake chamois that I wipe the shower down with. Other than that, I really don't see any purpose for it. I suppose you could plug the drain and make a little foot bath or something if you need to.
I may put some weather stripping around the seat so that I don't have to take it out every time I shower, but that's a distant project of 12 minutes or so.
Still on a dollar for dollar basis, upgrades to the shower are the most productive…
Bob
On Fri, Oct 31, 2008 at 8:22 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Home depot. One hole for shower mixer valve, the other for shower hose outlet.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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To add to the confusion, SOLAS recommends bare SS wire. Dynel (I think) has rounded/trapeziodal cross sections for the strands so it's very round.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Here come my two cents – First, replace the inspection plate on the water tanks with a stainless steel one. Those plastic inspection plates are not designed for pressure from the underside. Moreover, isn't it a pain in the butt to watch the water level? Getting all the cushions off and all that?
Next, the water tanks vent on the port side in a hidden bulkhead in the locker above the sink in the v-berth. The starboard one vents in the hanging locker. A stupider set of vents could not have been devised. Re-route them to loop up a few inches and then go to the bilge – if possible (and highly recommended) extend them to the deep part of the bilge.
Now, when you fill the tanks they vent to the bilge and you don't have to do all that moving of stuff. Also, the tank inspection ports don't leak all over the cabin sole.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Damn, Tor, I just missed you – I'm in Palm Beach before flying home tomorrow. Ah, the life of a delivery crew.
Bob
On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 12:19 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:You've got a ways to go, John. Last night it also reached low-mid 40's here on the St. John's River (30 mi south of Jacksonville, FL). We don't expect to see daytime 70's again 'til Friday. I recommend Martinique. Then you can drain the tanks and fill 'em up with rum.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hey, Patrick,
I installed another T at the manifold before the pump with a longish piece of hose that reaches the bilge opening – it serves two purposes, 1. winterizing as you can pump air or solution through system, and 2. siphon any tank to the bilge for the bilge pump. It works out pretty well and will drain the 50 gallon tanks in about 15 minutes. It's also a good way to exercise your bilge pumps…
Bob
On Mon, Oct 27, 2008 at 11:52 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:As I'm sure you all knew I had zero trouble with the removal portion of my pluming project. I'm not done the install yet, but pulling the hose from the foot pump and then giving it a few pumps created enough suction to almost completely empty the tanks. When I do the install I'm going to put a T from each tank line to allow me to empty into the bilge.That was a great suggestion!
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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Hi!
I use a hose on a T to the manifold and siphon my tanks to the bilge…. It works and I don't have to go under the settees. I use the same hose for winterizing the system.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Well, for my two cents that you probably knew was coming: I've had the Nico day/night vents and they've performed flawlessly for years. My problem has been they've been yanked of the transom in heavy weather on my old boat or have had stuff dropped on them shattering the solar cell. I expect to replace the battery every couple of years – it's a 'D' or 'C' cell battery easily gotten from Radio Shack. Nicad batteries have a limited number of recharge cycles, somewhere in the hundreds so 2-3 years would be about right.
Whatever you do, don't get the plastic ones – go the extra bucks for the stainless ones, although it'll hurt more when they plunge overboard…
Bob
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 10:10 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Dan:
Based on John's comments, I have another idea for you to consider in place of the solar vents. I got it from the composting toilet I also installed. They use small computer fans to provide ventilation. These little fans are all 12 volt and many draw less than 1 watt, so they can be wired up directly to your DC system. Best of all, they only cost a few bucks each, so they are basically disposable. They come in sizes starting at 10 x 10 cm on up.They could be placed in dorades, etc, if you wanted more active ventilation.
Paul
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi John,
Am coming into Beaufort, NC tonight (10/24) on an Outer Reef 65. If time permits will be wandering around the dock. Are you anchored/moored out or in a slip?
We'll be at the town dock.
Bob
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Boy, oh boy, do I recommend this! The best place for the inner forestay is just above the bulkhead that forms the aft of the anchor locker. You can build the backing/stress plates for that bulkhead and do they work! I'll happily send pictures of mine (I think I did once, but will again happily).
Once you start using a staysail, you'll use it all the time – it adds 1 to 1.5 knots to boat speed especially in light air. The only difference between what you want to do and what I have is the connector to the stay – mine's not terribly flexible so it's a bit of a pain in the ass to remove.
There is more than enough room for the main jib to pass although you need some patience and skill to do it without a great deal of flapping – the key is to release the jib lines earlier than later.
The reef-able staysail is what I have in addition to a general one I use. As it turns out you don't need a track. I've attached a bridle between the forward posts of the mast pulpits and back to a line brake in the cockpit for the sheet. Works like a charm although the twist in the sail is fairly high. I also have running backs for the main – I've never needed to deal with them, but in really high seas I could see them stopping the mast from pumping.
I cannot recommend a staysail enough.
Oh, as I mentioned, the staysail and mizzen in 32-38 kts of wind allows Pelican to sail quite happily on a close reach at 7+kts with no drama. Paul Lefebvre will testify to that – and with old, blown out sails.
So there's my two cents.
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