Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Someone else might be better able to answer this question..
– pat
Original Message
Subject: Re: Westerbeke 60 question
Date: Fri, 23 May 2014 10:04:37 -0700 (PDT)Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
having done a search on the old forum for W60 I found a few things
1) according to Rich Carter some years back
[ https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=978&highlight=w60 ]
I assume you’re asking where the block originally comes from. As I
remember, it started life as a British Leyland motor used in cabs during
the ’50s and ’60s. It may have also been used in some Land-Rover
vehicles of that time. Production of the marinized version ended in the
late ’70s. At that time, Pearson bought up a bunch of them at a discount
to fit out their existing schedule of 424’s.2) more info from Walter
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=1415&highlight=w603) Chuck Ruble rebuilt one completely in 2008.
Happy hunting,
– pat
marcus hawkfeather wrote, On 5/21/14, 10:45 AM:
Hello Pearson org,
I have sailboat silent joy and am wondering about this westerbeke 58 hp engine. I have been told this is a perkins engine. anyone know the real make and model of the westerbeke 60?
thanks
mark
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Are these waters tidal? How does the ac of e list the bridge
clearance? mean high water? those of us in the great lakes would be
clueless about this… we have seiches but no tides – ..according to docs
[listed:
https://www.pearson424.org/tiki/tiki-index.php?page=Rigging%20Information%5D
Ketch:
Mast height above WL: 48′ 10″ (14.88m)Cutter:
Mast height above WL: 51′ 8″for some reason I don’t have those measurements from a Sloop rigged boat
I believe, however, all bets would be off if you have in mast furling
because chances are your rig is non-standard– pat
Page Two wrote, On 5/21/14, 3:22 PM:
If the Army Corp of Engineers are accurate with their numbers my masthead (no instruments etc) is just above or right at 51′. My wind transducer sticks straight out from the masthead, maybe an inch above and that’s what we hit right at the bottom of the bridge.
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Robert Fine wrote, On 5/13/14, 8:35 PM:
If the gap is the same as the strip length, start on one end an be
careful there are no bends away from the curve.Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on
my phone.On May 13, 2014 9:33 PM, “pat noordsij” <
> wrote:wouldn’t it make more sense to start in the middle and go to each
end? that way regardless the ends will either be on or they will
be off by the same amount…– pat
skipmac wrote, On 5/13/14, 8:16 PM:
Getting down to some of the cosmetics in my refit. The rub
rail was damaged by the PO and the stainless strip ripped off.
Of course the section in the middle with matching strips fore
and aft.I measured exactly 20′ and purchased a new strip that is
exactly 20′. However when I hold one end tight against the
adjoining strip the other end has about a 3/8″ gap on the
other end.I think it’s because the new strip is a bit wavy and I am
unable to hold it tight against the teak. So the question
is, how to install the new strip so it will be flush on both
ends. I have two ideas.1. Since the hull is curved, I can hold the middle of the
strip over the teak against the gull giving me some extra
slack allowing me to hold both ends of the new strip tight
against the adjoining strips. Start screwing from each end
until the strip is secured and then pull the middle back over
the edge of the rub rail and sink the rest of the screws. My
concern with this method is the strip will be too tight and I
won’t be able to pull the strip over the edge of the teak.2. Start attaching on one end and work down the strip. This
will flatten the strip, take out the waves and wobbles in the
strip and when I get to the end it will be flush. With this
method, if it doesn’t straighten and flatten the strip I’ll
get to the end and still have a gap.So, anyone ever do this job? Vote for plan A or plan B?
Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
wouldn’t it make more sense to start in the middle and go to each end?
that way regardless the ends will either be on or they will be off by
the same amount…– pat
skipmac wrote, On 5/13/14, 8:16 PM:
Getting down to some of the cosmetics in my refit. The rub rail was damaged by the PO and the stainless strip ripped off. Of course the section in the middle with matching strips fore and aft.
I measured exactly 20′ and purchased a new strip that is exactly 20′. However when I hold one end tight against the adjoining strip the other end has about a 3/8″ gap on the other end.
I think it’s because the new strip is a bit wavy and I am unable to hold it tight against the teak. So the question is, how to install the new strip so it will be flush on both ends. I have two ideas.
1. Since the hull is curved, I can hold the middle of the strip over the teak against the gull giving me some extra slack allowing me to hold both ends of the new strip tight against the adjoining strips. Start screwing from each end until the strip is secured and then pull the middle back over the edge of the rub rail and sink the rest of the screws. My concern with this method is the strip will be too tight and I won’t be able to pull the strip over the edge of the teak.
2. Start attaching on one end and work down the strip. This will flatten the strip, take out the waves and wobbles in the strip and when I get to the end it will be flush. With this method, if it doesn’t straighten and flatten the strip I’ll get to the end and still have a gap.
So, anyone ever do this job? Vote for plan A or plan B?
Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Some folks at Landfall navigation have been technically competent and i
see a page listing the product – although it is clearly an archive
page. You could call them to see if they have the upgrade patch somewhere.
http://www.landfallnavigation.com/-evn01.html– pat
RLeeds wrote, On 5/10/14, 8:32 AM:
I just upgraded my computers to Windows 7 and 8. I reinstalled Nobeltec VNS 6.5 but I cannot locate the upgrade disc for version 6.5.616. Does anyone have a copy of that version? (Nobeltec no longer has that download posted or available from the company–they were helpful though in providing me site keys to install 6.5.)
Thanks!
Rodd
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I think they were all done that way. Just spot checked using
https://pearson424.org/tiki/tiki-index.php?page=All+424s+we+know+about
http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/st1/CoastGuard/VesselByID.html– pat
Pete Dubler wrote, On 5/8/14, 9:07 PM:
Looking at the USCG Documentation for our 424, it shows the gross
tonnage as “24 GRT” Now really that should be 24,000 pounds and not
24 tons. (The net tonnage is shown as “22 NGT”. I tried to get the
Doc Center to change that as I understand that port fees go by
tonnage. They said since it was originally filed that way that it
cannot be corrected. What does your doc say and has this been a
problem in foreign ports?Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
my address:
pat noordsij wrote, On 5/7/14, 11:59 AM:
all.. please send me offline all your schematics for your electrical
systems and pictures if you like. i’ll put together a composite for
the website.– pat
Alan wrote, On 5/7/14, 11:38 AM:
Also make buss vars larger. You may wish to add solar, wind sources.
Also some devices work better when connected to buss bar rather than
dc panel ie. SSB or refer. Still fused but direct connections.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2014, at 9:16 AM, “Paperbird” wrote:
I’ve been using the Echo charger for a couple years now and am very
pleased. I have 2: 1 charging the start battery, the other charging
a windlass battery in the bow. Both of those batteries stay full
charged and don’t require any switches or monitoring.So I would second Craig’s comment re the charger connection to the
start battery being redundant.One additional thought is that I’ve read a number of reports about
1-2-both-off switches failing. So I ‘switched’ to all on-off
switches. 1 for the house, 1 for the start battery, and 1 to cross
connect them. The cross-connect is situated so I can either start
the engine from the house, or power the house from the start battery
(very unlikely).I opted for the Victron monitor. So far am very happy with it.
Although Compass Marine has just done some tests on some less
expensive alternatives that might be worth considering.couple other nits to consider:
– circuit protection on the echo charger (15A)
– connect the 40A charger to the positive bus bar to reduce
connections to the batteries
– circuit protection between alternator and bus bar
– circuit protection between bus bar and DC panelI have a schematic of our system if you’d like – email if you’d like
it .
S/V Paperbird
But if not…_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
all.. please send me offline all your schematics for your electrical
systems and pictures if you like. i’ll put together a composite for the
website.– pat
Alan wrote, On 5/7/14, 11:38 AM:
Also make buss vars larger. You may wish to add solar, wind sources. Also some devices work better when connected to buss bar rather than dc panel ie. SSB or refer. Still fused but direct connections.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2014, at 9:16 AM, “Paperbird” wrote:
I’ve been using the Echo charger for a couple years now and am very pleased. I have 2: 1 charging the start battery, the other charging a windlass battery in the bow. Both of those batteries stay full charged and don’t require any switches or monitoring.
So I would second Craig’s comment re the charger connection to the start battery being redundant.
One additional thought is that I’ve read a number of reports about 1-2-both-off switches failing. So I ‘switched’ to all on-off switches. 1 for the house, 1 for the start battery, and 1 to cross connect them. The cross-connect is situated so I can either start the engine from the house, or power the house from the start battery (very unlikely).
I opted for the Victron monitor. So far am very happy with it. Although Compass Marine has just done some tests on some less expensive alternatives that might be worth considering.
couple other nits to consider:
– circuit protection on the echo charger (15A)
– connect the 40A charger to the positive bus bar to reduce connections to the batteries
– circuit protection between alternator and bus bar
– circuit protection between bus bar and DC panelI have a schematic of our system if you’d like – email if you’d like it .
S/V Paperbird
But if not…_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
*Tor: * no one has written anything since Sunday – you haven’t missed
anything*Ken:* The Tiki 12 site is new and you will have to re-register for
it. The new site will not transfer the old users in – (and it’s a good
way to clean up the list anyway)*All:* I’m still working on how to integrate the online forum with the
mail list. Once I have this piece really working – I’m going move the
Tiki12 site into production. At that point everyone will have to
re-register for the new forum and I will disable the old one. The old
one won’t go away but it will become archival only meaning the info will
be there but you won’t be able to sign in.*What will we gain by this you might ask? *
1) I’ll resurrect some of the old pages that had oft asked for information.
2) I’ll resurrect boat locations so it’s easier to find people and to
find hull histories
3) It will be easier for people to add information to the website in the
form of articles and the like ( think wikipedia style)
4) Hopefully it will be more protected from spammers – who try to
register for the new forum in droves …– pat
Silverheels wrote, On 4/29/14, 5:09 PM:
Quote:I hardly ever visit the website, but FYI I have not
received any forum emails since early Sunday evening.
So it anyone has posted anything, it didn’t get
forwarded.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Login screen in the corner right should have a register link. I will make
one more front and center.Thanks for your input
On Apr 20, 2014 8:45 AM, “John Stevenson” wrote:Pat,
I posted to the survey. Couldn’t figure out how to register.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 9:24 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
Hi folks…
Once again I am revisiting the website and would like your input. I’ve
put
together a really short survey at: https://pearson424.org/tiki/
tiki-take_survey.php?surveyId=1I am leaning towards this format as it is easy to distribute management
and has a forum built in with email capability. After you look around –
let me know what you think about general format. Please take a moment to
give me your thoughts.If you want to register – please feel free
thanks
– pat
SV Doris E, p178_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
We did basically what Tor did… Moved them to under the aft berth. We
used the compartment forward of the one Tor used. We have 5 group 31s
there. We have a group 27 starting battery stbd of the
engine in the hanging locker and a group 31 agm under the vberth for the
windless and bow thruster. We built strap rails or modified battery
boxes for all of them.Our holding tank (kracor.com) is aft of the mast forward of the deep
bilge. We had to strap that in as well using metal strapping-relatively
permanent. Made Dave’s brother put in the strapping as Dave didn’t
fit. It was painful at the time. I got to just watch 😀– pat
Robert Fine wrote, On 4/13/14, 7:01 AM:
I know this has been discussed before, but has anyone moved their batteries
to that area of the keel aft of the mast? And if so, did you leave other
batteries elsewhere?I know Tor moved all his to the compartment aft of the water heater with
some magic formula for putting them in. I’m wondering if I can put 3 4Ds
behind the mast and leave the two group 31s aft of the water heater?Did you put them on some kind of rails? How strapped in place, etc.
Thanks,
Bob
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
My daughter has an Xperia with 32GB. She received it as a christmas
gift. Her laptops have suffered through cats throwing up on them and
little girls spilling sodas on her keyboard. This seemed to be a better
solution for her. The screen is lovely. The waterproof aspect seems a
necessity in her current world. It is not as good at skype as the ipad
– seems a bit more sensitive to the bandwidth issues. It is all she
uses for a computer.– pat
sumocean wrote, On 3/25/14, 5:44 PM:
I have been wanting to get one of the Sony submersible tablets. Not that much more expensive and waterproof out of the box. Just seems to make sense to me. However I don’t have one yet, just want one.
Does have any experience with one of these units.
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Xperia-SGP311U1-10-1-Inch-Tablet/dp/B00CE590Z0Linus
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
We use Plan2Nav on an ipad. Looks like there is an android version. We
paid ~$40 for the charts that cover the area we care about. That said –
we don’t use it for navigation – we use our chart plotter for that (and
we have backup paper). I use the iPad a ton for planning purposes –
where will we go tomorrow – can we get there given the wind/weather. We
could use it to navigate as it has GPS and is cell/wifi independent.
The screen can be difficult to “read” in daylight.– pat
SV Doris E, p424 #178typhoontye wrote, On 3/23/14, 8:54 PM:
We will soon be the new owners of Blue Moon and bringing her home to Fort Walton Beach. I would like to buy a tablet to use as backup navigation. I prefer the Android over the Apple. The primary requirement that it have true GPS so it will work in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico. Anyone currently using a tablet for offshore navigation?
Pat Tye_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
