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Of course you can take them – they are all public domain … right?
– pat
John Stevenson wrote:
Thank you, Pat, Cada and anyone else who was instrumental in getting
these blueprints in digital format. I downloaded the sailplan over
the WIFI here in the Marsh Harbor anchorage. It took a little while
so I think I’ll wait till late tonight to try the rest.
Now i can finally throwaway the paper blueprints before they turn into
dust.
Pat, with your permission, I would like to replace the blue print
mosaics on my website with these clean version.John
On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 11:53 AM, pat noordsij <
they have now (finally ) made it to the website:
see: https://www.pearson424.org/uploads/linus.phpsorry it took so long.
– pat
(ps when i get back to the boat – i’ll see if i can’t find the U
shaped galley layout)—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com <http://www.svsarah.com>
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they have now (finally ) made it to the website:
see: https://www.pearson424.org/uploads/linus.phpsorry it took so long.
– pat
(ps when i get back to the boat – i’ll see if i can’t find the U shaped
galley layout)Rick Dugger wrote:
Quote:Pat
Did the drawings make it to the web site?
I looked but didn’t find them..
Rick
Eclipse#73On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 8:59 AM, pat noordsij <
I have the drawing from Linus. I’m looking at the “best” to
present them. I expect to post them tonight.– pat
On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 7:27 AM, <
Just found out converting blue prints to pdf is much cheaper
than I was orginally told. Plan to convert three drawings,
sail plan for sloop, deck layout specifications and interior
detailed drawing. Will not be able to do it until after
holidays. Will send out, but would hope we could put all of
them on the web site for future access.Cada
Dec 1, 2008 08:36:49 PM,
Me too and +1 on paypal 🙂
On 12/1/08 6:37 AM,
Cada
I’d be interested in PDFs. I have no need for hard
copies. As I said earlier, I’d be happy to chip in to
have them scanned. Paypal is pretty easy if you
accept it.—
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47
Original message
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I have the drawing from Linus. I'm looking at the “best” to present them. I expect to post them tonight.
– pat
On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 7:27 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Just found out converting blue prints to pdf is much cheaper than I was orginally told. Plan to convert three drawings, sail plan for sloop, deck layout specifications and interior detailed drawing. Will not be able to do it until after holidays. Will send out, but would hope we could put all of them on the web site for future access.Cada
Dec 1, 2008 08:36:49 PM, () wrote:
Quote:Me too and +1 on paypal 🙂On 12/1/08 6:37 AM, () wrote :
Quote:Cada
I'd be interested in PDFs. I have no need for hard copies. As I said earlier, I'd be happy to chip in to have them scanned. Paypal is pretty easy if you accept it.—
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I got this one…
there is a way to upload to pearson site.
– pat
On Tue, Dec 2, 2008 at 2:42 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Help
I am not a computer guru just a lowly bartender and I need help sending these files. They are to large to send as they are. Any suggestions?
Linus
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We always use the tub in the shower for laundry. We filed down a cork
to seal it off. Use a little liquid detergent and it gets done. The
seas are never perfectly calm so it gets sloshed around enough. If
we’re doing pants then I use the entire floor of the shower – but
generally we don’t do pants often. They have to be standing in the
corner by themselves before I bother.while I am intrigued by that little washer I’m not sure it’s going to
bubble up the priority list much.– pat
Doris E, p424 #178Silver Heels wrote, On 11/17/2008 5:08 PM:
Quote:Laundry in the shower seat is a neat idea, the first practical use
I’ve heard for that space, but the trick is to maximize the jostling
motion. More often than not (and especially going to windward),
that’ll happen at bow.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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The stanchion bases were $ 68 each including shipping ( $410 )
We reused the stanchions themselves
All the hardware: $ 150
The line: $ 145 (used it for a topping lift on the mizzen and made 2
loops as well, still have ~12 ft)
The lashing: $21
Fiberglass rods: $52As for the old holes… well these things take time. We’ve removed the
leaky bases so far and filled them temporarily with Marine-Tex.. (We had
drilled them all out and filled them with expoxy when we first purchased
the boat. We’re trying to get all the deck work done and then we’ll
“fix” these holes as well.The caprail is coated with Semco Natural. The cockpit combing
(DSC01489.JPG) is varnish.– pat
Aaron Lynch wrote, On 10/30/2008 9:27 PM:
Pat, that’s very interesting. Wish I knew about this a year ago when I
replaced mine (already rusting again)How much did this cost you all in?
Also in this picture:
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/DELifelines/DSC01143Did you varnish your caprail or let it go?
And lastly, how’d you fill all the holes left from the stancions?
On 10/30/08 5:02 PM, pat noordsij wrote :
2 years ago we replaced the stanchions that sat on the deck with
stanchions we designed ( and Gauhauer fabricated for us ) to sit
on the
caprail. We went from 10 stanchions to 6 stanchions. On the back 4
stanchions (2 on each side) we put a 7/8″ fiberglass rod inside the
stanchion to make it stiffer.At the same time we changed from wire to rope lifelines. We used
SK 75
Amsteel Blue by Samson 1/4″ line. Rather than use turnbuckles we used
brass eyes with Lash-It (Dyneema twine) to attach to the pushpit and
pull pit. So far we have seen no wear on the line. The only
maintenance is to tighten the lashings twice / season and renew the
“blue” coating occasionally. Splicing the stuff is not difficult
but it
is critical that the slice be appropriate for the rope or the line
loses
too much strength.We love them. The lines are comfortable. The gates don’t “snake” on
the deck. The extra space from moving the stanchions outboard is
really
nice.Some pictures: https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/DELifelines
– pat
Lee Yonkers wrote, On 10/30/2008 5:00 PM:
I need to replace my coated lifelines. I know I don’t want the
coated
type which leaves me to choose between stainless steel and very low
stretch line from Samson or New England Rope. I spoke with the folks
at Sampson and asked them about the three year replacement
requirement. The guy said that the line will last nearly forever; it
is the fittings (made by Johnson) that need to be replaced everythree
years at Johnson’s recommendation . He also said that there are lots
of boats with way more than three years on them and they are working
fine.All comments, suggestions and recommendations appreciated.
Lee
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2 years ago we replaced the stanchions that sat on the deck with
stanchions we designed ( and Gauhauer fabricated for us ) to sit on the
caprail. We went from 10 stanchions to 6 stanchions. On the back 4
stanchions (2 on each side) we put a 7/8″ fiberglass rod inside the
stanchion to make it stiffer.At the same time we changed from wire to rope lifelines. We used SK 75
Amsteel Blue by Samson 1/4″ line. Rather than use turnbuckles we used
brass eyes with Lash-It (Dyneema twine) to attach to the pushpit and
pull pit. So far we have seen no wear on the line. The only
maintenance is to tighten the lashings twice / season and renew the
“blue” coating occasionally. Splicing the stuff is not difficult but it
is critical that the slice be appropriate for the rope or the line loses
too much strength.We love them. The lines are comfortable. The gates don’t “snake” on
the deck. The extra space from moving the stanchions outboard is really
nice.Some pictures: https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/DELifelines
– pat
Lee Yonkers wrote, On 10/30/2008 5:00 PM:
I need to replace my coated lifelines. I know I don’t want the coated
type which leaves me to choose between stainless steel and very low
stretch line from Samson or New England Rope. I spoke with the folks
at Sampson and asked them about the three year replacement
requirement. The guy said that the line will last nearly forever; it
is the fittings (made by Johnson) that need to be replaced every three
years at Johnson’s recommendation . He also said that there are lots
of boats with way more than three years on them and they are working
fine.All comments, suggestions and recommendations appreciated.
Lee
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Good Morning Howard
Congrats on your purchase.
I think right now you are the only 422 owner on the list. In the past we have had several folks with 422's. There are many similarities between the two models. I'm sure we all benefit
– pat
Doris E, p424 #178On Tue, Oct 21, 2008 at 10:37 AM, howard < ([email][/email])> wrote:
good morning. i am the new proud owner of a pearson422. i understand that is is ok for us to use this forum. i would like to exchange some ideas with other 422 owners if they are willing. thanks for you time and thanks for this website.
howardPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I would be happy to….
– pat
On Fri, Oct 17, 2008 at 8:06 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:It's great that folks are scanning documentation. Would it please be possible to either copy these to the 424 website or link the to it? That way we can find them if we ever need a copy.—
Rich Carter
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We hang ours on a baton which we put one screw in to hold it in place.. then we can lift it out of the bottom of the bilge whenever we feel like looking at it.. It's really low tech and low cost.
– pat
On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 3:32 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Holy crap! Do you have a 700# bilge pump?3/8 stainless to support it? I would think 1/8 would be overkill 🙂
My bilge thingy is made from 1/2″ starboard.
On 10/6/08 11:07 AM, Silver Heels wrote :
Quote:You're right, Pat, in that my pump is necessarily 3/8″ off the bottom of the sump because the stainless steel mounting plate is that thick. In addition, the float switch, also 3/8″ off the bottom because of the mounting plate, needs a little additional water level to kick in. However, the manual bilge pump is as flat on the bottom as can be and that keeps the water level down to a sliver.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
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Post which photos? –
this photo is now listed on the https://www.pearson424.org home page
– pat
2008/9/24 Elaine Patton < ([email][/email])>
Quote:Can you post the photos again, please. We have a friend who races with us who lost a boat in Andrew. He was sick about the electronics that the insurance company did not cover, but did not let him salvage.— On Tue, 9/23/08, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Chuck
Somewhere on the cape horn site (http://www.capehorn.com) it speaks to fitting a ketch. The site brings up several interesting issues
1) depending on the height of the paddle, a bimini would be a bigger issue in that it can disturb more airflow. they suggest putting the paddle up high above the bimini
2) a mizzen coming across would deflect the paddle for a few seconds at a time when you are actually at the wheel or during an accidental gibe in which case the windvane is really not the problem– pat
Doris EOn Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 9:01 AM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Tor, the windvane configuration you are looking at, is it designed to fit a sloop or ketch? I'd think the mizzen boom would interfere with the operation of the device.
Chuck
On Wed, Sep 10, 2008 at 9:36 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John,
…….Bottom line is we'd need at least 5 of us to qualify.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Fixed..
Since the server “reconstruction” a few weeks back, we’re seeing some
permissions issues. Just keep letting me know about them – I’ll fix them
as we find them.– pat
Patrick Walters wrote, On 8/7/2008 10:07 PM:
Not sure who posted these pics, but they are showing up as broken
links. I was really excited to see them too. L“*Reinforce bow sections and install ash ceiling strips *”
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Our baby just turned over 3000 this past wkend. We still love her. She
works much better now that we replaced the starting batteryI could swear, however, that WB 58’s were 60 HP and the WB 60’s were 56
HP..What is the hull number of this boat?
– pat
Doris E, p424 #178adam silverstein wrote, On 8/7/2008 5:04 PM:
4000+ and she purrs like a kitten (and belches and wheezes and spits
and produces the occasional unidentifiable but quite intriguing flatus).-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Aug 7, 2008, at 5:06 PM, “kalinowski” <
We are coming close to closing on our 1980 424 ketch. The boat has a
Westerbeke 58hp with 2500 hours. I’ve only dealt with the Yanmar that
came new with our other boat. Questions:Is this a reasonable hour usage for the engine or are we coming close
to major refit? What is considered a “high” hours total on this engine?Thanks
Dan Kalinowski
(Soon owner of “Swift”)
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We have heard several new Pearson Owners this month.
Along with Sean & Margaret who purchased Jubilee (#215), we have received notice today that Julie and Larry have purchased Miss Kathleen (#57)
– pat
Doris E #178On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 2:36 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Not sure I saw this come across the list but Jubilee sold:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f47/we-did-17007.html-p
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