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Orca, SCADtech, and Kimberlite combined. I am not sure if they are
still together as such but the addresses in the website are for the guys
at Kimberlite.Pete (was the “D” in SCAD)
On 1/12/2012 1:48 PM, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Quote:John,I think the spelling was wrong and it is Kimberlite and they are part of the MISEA Group. I see they also bought SCAD.
Paul
Quote:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
http://www.miseagroup.com/solutions/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=28
On 1/12/2012 12:36 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
Can you provide a URL for Kimerlite or a source. When I Google it I don’t
get an LED supplier.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 1:24 PM, Peaboy Walterswrote:
I have a pair of Dr LED’s spreader lights. Model name is KEVIN. LOVE them!
-p
On 1/7/12, Pete Dubler wrote:
I am impressed with the Kimerlite
Product line and am usi.g them for all the exterior lighting on our refitSent from my Android phone which is programed to entertain you with
creative
Quote:spelling corrections.
Original message
Subject: Re: LED spreader lightsPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
This is the problem with repainting the boat. With everything sprayed
and beautiful, the hardware looks terrible and needs cleaning,
polishing, or upgrading. If you give a mouse a cookie…By the way, all articles from our project will now appear on my website
about a month after they come out in the magazine. dublerfamily.comPete
On 1/10/2012 7:00 AM, wrote:
Quote:You folks must have more time than me. The two bow cleats are working cleats and I just leave them be. They are annodized aluminum. Though tarnished, they look OK. A local marine store had a barrel of them at one point for short money each. I think the manufacturer went out of business. Wish I had bought spares.The rest of the cleats on my boat get a coat of rustoleum every couple of years. It doesn’t hold up well but its cheap and goes on with one coat. They’re working cleats too. If the paint gets worn or chipped, I don’t worry about it.
Regards
Rich
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thx
On 1/9/2012 9:40 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Pete
That would Phillips plating I will look for contact info and pass it along.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Jan 9, 2012, at 7:53 PM, Cada Grove wrote:
Pete,
Just saw this messge…
I was able to clean and repolish my cleats with a high speed polishing
wheel on job grinder – you will need a good polish.When finished they looked like new.
Cada
Jubliee No. 100On Mon, Oct 24, 2011 at 8:50 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
The deck looks gorgeous after the repaint. The Alexseal is amazing paint.
Most would have been happy with just the primer…Since I took all hardware off the decks to paint them, I am now assessing
the old hardware and most is looking pretty shabby next to the
new-boat-looking deck. My massive 10+” cleats really need to be replated
or replaced. I got some of the Marine Parts Depot 10″ cleats and they are
Micky Mouse at best compared to the old ones. I knew the minute the
package arrived and the four new cleats weighed about as much as one of my
old ones. I am sending them back. (When will I learn that those guys don’t
make serious deck hardware…).Has anyone a great source for replating such things? I want to stay away
from the motorcycle chrome shops as I have found them to be very expensive.
I once had some plating done by a commercial shop between New Bern and
Washington NC but I can’t seem to find their info anywhere in my notes.Thanks!
Pete
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Henderson is a variant of Whale. What’s it say on it?
On 1/9/2012 6:38 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Pump is either a whale or edson. Rebuild kits are available still. When I
get a chance I’ll see if I can find it.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2012 8:17 PM, “Cada Grove” wrote:The rubber boot on my cockpit manual pump as given up the ghost. Does
anyone know where to get a new one or a good replacement for the pump. I
believe manufacture is out of business.Cada Grove
Jubilee No. 100
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If it is a Whale/Henderson MK5, the kit is a Whale DP9905.
Defender has it:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|121271|316443&id=674029
with a good picture. You might also want to rebuild the pump while you
are at it. AK8050 is the kit for that.
I paid about $20 and $32 respectively (but I have a boat builder
accounts with some of the suppliers).Hope that helps.
Pete
On 1/9/2012 6:17 PM, Cada Grove wrote:
The rubber boot on my cockpit manual pump as given up the ghost. Does
anyone know where to get a new one or a good replacement for the pump. I
believe manufacture is out of business.Cada Grove
Jubilee No. 100
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I’ve been a polishing deamon and have two polishing lathes set up in my
shop but I could not get the shine on these cleats as they are plated
bronze. I must have different cleats. Put new ones on the boat and
will be getting rid of these. Standby for next garage sale.Pete
On 1/9/2012 5:53 PM, Cada Grove wrote:
Pete,
Just saw this messge…
I was able to clean and repolish my cleats with a high speed polishing
wheel on job grinder – you will need a good polish.When finished they looked like new.
Cada
Jubliee No. 100On Mon, Oct 24, 2011 at 8:50 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
The deck looks gorgeous after the repaint. The Alexseal is amazing paint.
Most would have been happy with just the primer…Since I took all hardware off the decks to paint them, I am now assessing
the old hardware and most is looking pretty shabby next to the
new-boat-looking deck. My massive 10+” cleats really need to be replated
or replaced. I got some of the Marine Parts Depot 10″ cleats and they are
Micky Mouse at best compared to the old ones. I knew the minute the
package arrived and the four new cleats weighed about as much as one of my
old ones. I am sending them back. (When will I learn that those guys don’t
make serious deck hardware…).Has anyone a great source for replating such things? I want to stay away
from the motorcycle chrome shops as I have found them to be very expensive.
I once had some plating done by a commercial shop between New Bern and
Washington NC but I can’t seem to find their info anywhere in my notes.Thanks!
Pete
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I am impressed with the Kimerlite
Product line and am usi.g them for all the exterior lighting on our refitSent from my Android phone which is programed to entertain you with creative spelling corrections.
Original message
Subject: Re: LED spreader lightsPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I second that compliment
On 1/6/2012 8:12 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Tor,
Really nice.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com2012/1/6 Silverheels
I thought some of you might be interested to see these photos. It was
(I’m embarrassed to admit) the first time I’ve flown Silverheels’ mizzen
staysail, which came with the boat but has remained in a cockpit locker
until now. I guess it was the first time – or at least one of very few
times – I had perfect conditions for it, with lots of time and plenty of
sea room. These photos were taken day after Christmas at 27°N x 72°W,
535 n miles into the Atlantic from Jacksonville (FL) Inlet.A few notes:
– The wind generator mounted on the forward side of the mizzen mast did
not interfere at all, but I shut it off anyway while the sail was up.– I shackled the mizzen staysail’s tack to a back-plated deck ring that
is normally home to a (fore)staysail sheet block. It just happened to be
in about the right place for this.– The single mizzen staysail sheet leads through a snatch block on the
end of the mizzen boom.– Hallett Sailmakers was apparently the original for this boat. My
hank-on staysail (which was originally a #3 yankee and was on the boat
when I got her, virtually brand new, probably never flown) was made by
the same loft. Superb workmanship like you can scarcely find today.– This is also the first time Silverheels has ever flown 5 sails: genoa,
staysail, mainsail, mizzen staysail& mizzen. Very cool! I’d have given
a lot for a motorboat to get a hundred yards away for some photos. I
know the dolphins that visited us that afternoon were impressed.Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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And a fine point it is.
On 1/3/2012 8:11 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Pete,
“I believe that splitting the load over two smaller cables is not allowed
in ABYC, for what it’s worth.”For what it’s worth… we’re out in the boonies and the closest #6 cable is over a 100 miles away…. and we can’t get the compressor running cause there is only 11.5 volts… so we doubled up the cables… for the time being. Have not been plugged in 2 and 1/2 months.
I am sure the ABYC people won’t mind.
My point was to make people aware that the original cable that most of us still have is too small for present day loads and needs to be replaced with a larger cable.
alan— On Tue, 1/3/12, Pete Dubler wrote:
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I believe that splitting the load over two smaller cables is not allowed
in ABYC, for what it’s worth.On 1/3/2012 6:08 PM, Alan wrote:
I just thought I’d mention something I have found now on two 424’s recently.
The DC +12 volt cable the runs from the common terminal of the battery switch to the DC Panel is woefully inadequate. It may have been OK 30 years ago but as we had more and more devices connected to the DC panel, the voltage drop gets worse and worse.
This time is presented itself as a large voltage drop on one side the buss as the compressor for the refrigeration unit started up.
As we did not have a larger cable on hand, we run 2nd cable (#8) along with the original wire. It seemed to help the problem.
Hope it helps someone…
Alan
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I hope you meant 2/1000 of an inch and not 2/10,000. If the latter, I
want you to align mine for me Rich.Happy holidays, including Festivus,
Pete
On 12/8/2011 12:38 PM, wrote:
Quote:Walter,
My experience is a bit different from yours. I’ve found that alignment to the shaft is critical for smooth operation. Simply bolting the V-drive to the shaft and expecting it to align itself hasn’t work for me. I’ve tried this approach without success. I don’t remember what Walter’s specifications for alignment are, but as I recall I had to get alignment within about .0002″ to get it right. The last time I did this, it took me several tries to get it right. I did my best following Walter’s specs and took the boat out for a test. I wasn’t satisfied and did it a couple of more times, each time being a bit more careful with tolerances. Its now smooth as silk. I don’t think its centered in the stern tube however.This winter I had to pull the transmission to fix a leaky seal. To get the transmission out, I had to pull the jack-shaft. I sure hope I didn’t damage the V-drive input shaft seal or somehow screw-up the alignment. At least the input shaft seal is easy to replace.
Regards
Rich
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You can also get them to put on the terminals for a small fee and they
do very nice work.On 11/23/2011 1:19 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:FYI, for the small amount I needed (25′ ea. of black& red 8-AWG battery
cable, and half a dozen lug terminals), http://www.genuinedealz.com was the
best deal – even before the free shipping bonus.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Yup, I am a cheap scape.
On 11/22/2011 3:02 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I knew you’d know. 🙂Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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For all grades and colors: /shop.genuinedealz.com/
For lower price on black and red wire and for high quality terminals.:
http://www.tiewraps.com/Pete
/
On 11/22/2011 2:49 PM, Silverheels wrote:A long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, someone in this group
mentioned an especially good (as in less expensive) online source for
electrical wire. I made a note of it, but have no idea where it is now.
Anyone know that (or another) discount wire source?Thanks,
Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
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