[petedd]

By the way, before you decide to go to 50AMP inlet wiring, check out the
prices of the cords, adapters, and plugs. It is cheaper to run two
30AMP inputs than one 50AMP, which is what lots of newer boats do.

Pete

On 12/15/2010 1:24 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:

As planed I left it as-is and just did a proper replacement. I have AC power
again!

Part list for the archive:

– 20′ of 10awg3 Ancor shore power cable
– 7′ 10awg Ancor white primary wire
– Blue Sea A Series Toggle Double Pole PN# 7238
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
– Ring Terminals for 10Awg Wire

Out of the 20′ I was able to make the main connection to the breaker and
from the 7′ the wire from breaker to the AC break out panel. The Green wire
in the triple actually hooks into the ground as the wire comes through the
hanging locker, so you will strip off a lot of the insulation.

The wires connected to my shore power plug were only covered with electrical
tape. There is a proper cover for the back I plan to buy. They probably left
it off because the 6awg Type 2 wire they used was very stiff. Here’s a shot
of that if you also see electrical tape and want a proper cover.
http://www.marinco.com/product/30-amp-rear-safety-enclosure-8-way

Thanks again everyone for answering my questions!
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:39 PM, <
> wrote:

Basically correct. The thing is that more often than not these days docks
don’t have the 50amp 120v single leg outlets sp u end up tapping two 30amp
outlets using a Y adapter. Also there may or may not be two outlets
available for one boat at the dock

Regarding the “other way”, that would be a 50amp 220 plug which provides
120V at 50amps on each of two legs. This is like an outlet for a welder or
more familiarly a dryer outlet though the latter is only 30 amps per leg.

Pete

On Dec 14, 2010, at 4:17 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:

If your bored I’d love to see an explanation of the difference between
50amps as a single 120v leg and whatever the other way is.

I assumed to upgrade from 30Amps to 50Amps and thus run more on the boat,
you would just upgrade the feed from the shore to the panel (shore power
cord, shore power plug, wiring to the AC Breaker) to be sized for 50Amps

and

then you could run more off the panel than you could at 30Amps.

Is it more complicated than that?

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:03 PM, <
> wrote:

Yes. Originally wired for 50 amps as a single 120 volt leg

On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:

Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat was

wired

for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been

replaced

after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics and

I

assume all original original.

My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in the

AC

panel that are labeled as 30Amp.

Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:

Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).

On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with gusts

to

the

mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following

seas

and

current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice

short 2

hour jaunt.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson<

>wrote:

Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to change

the

amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also

used

Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas of

the

70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of

the

P424
run.

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:

Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m

curious

if

the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to

the

panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19

<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

Go here:

http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Pearson%20Owners%20Group%20Newsletters/

Then RIGHT CLICK then SAVE AS Issue 11-96 which contains the article.
These are large files (2.4M for this one and 17+M for the 10 year
summary). Trying to open that large a pdf within your browser directly
can be problematic.

Pete

On 12/14/2010 5:57 PM, Dawn Rodney wrote:

Quote:

I can’t get to the link either. It looks like it is trying to download
something but never quite finishes.
Thanks
Dawn

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 2:56 PM,<> wrote:

Quote:

Send maillist mailing list submissions to

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
or, via email, send a message with subject or body ‘help’ to

You can reach the person managing the list at

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than “Re: Contents of maillist digest…”

Today’s Topics:

1. Re: re companionway hatch leak fix (Lee Yonkers)
2. Re: AC Main Breaker (Robert Fine)
3. Re: AC Main Breaker (Patrick “Peaboy” Walters)

---

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:36:04 -0800 (PST)
<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

Lee

Sometimes these long links are hard to use. Make sure the entire link is on a single line in your browser address bar. Alternately just type in the link through the word “manuals” and then click your way down the directory tree

Happy holidays

Pete

On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:36 PM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:

Quote:

Pete,

I tried the link:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Pearson%20424/Ten%20year%20best%20projects%20summary.PDF

and it didn’t work for me. I am trying to fix a leaky hatch as well and can use
all of the help I can get.

Lee

________________________________

Quote:

There is a good write-up by Hal Sutphen on how to fix the companionway
hatch leak on pages 32-34 of this summary of the first year of best
Pearson 424 projects:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Pearson%20424/Ten%20year%20best%20projects%20summary.PDF
F

One of the things I scanned that will soon be available on the Pearson
424 owners’ website.

Pete

On 12/13/2010 7:58 PM, Dawn Rodney wrote:

Quote:

Hi everyone,
Patrick and I were out this weekend…yes we left the dock finally for a
nice weekend sail to Blake Island where we met 30 knot gusts and 3 inches of
downpouring rain over night. While we were tied to the dock in Blake, Deep
Playa sprung massive leaks (all above the water line) and now we have a
substantial leak in the starboard companionway that wasn’t there before. I
know that others have rebedded and properly sealed theirs previously. Did
anyone also try to seal up the gaps that are left even while the
companionway is closed? And if so, what did you use?
PS: we had an awesome down wind sail home and were cruising at 6.5 kts
flying just the jib. 🙂
Thanks,
Dawn
s/v Deep Playa

On Sat, Dec 11, 2010 at 10:00 AM,<> wrote:

Quote:

Send maillist mailing list submissions to

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
or, via email, send a message with subject or body ‘help’ to

You can reach the person managing the list at

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than “Re: Contents of maillist digest…”

Today’s Topics:

1. Re: 424 For Sale in Australia (Patrick “Peaboy” Walters)
2. Larger portlights- [4]- SS- what size and what brands are
suggested? (joe shimkonis)
3. Re: Larger portlights- [4]- SS- what size and what brands are
su (Chuck Ruble)
4. scans of earlier newsletters (Pete Dubler)
5. Re: scans of earlier newsletters (Patrick “Peaboy” Walters)
6. Re: Larger portlights- [4]- SS- what size and what brands are
su (Joe Shimkonis)
7. Re: Larger portlights- [4]- SS- what size and what brands are
su (Patrick “Peaboy” Walters)
8. Re: Larger portlights- [4]- SS- what size and what brands are
su (joe shimkonis)
9. Re: scans of earlier newsletters (Pete Dubler)

---

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 10:03:10 -0800
<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

Basically correct. The thing is that more often than not these days docks don’t have the 50amp 120v single leg outlets sp u end up tapping two 30amp outlets using a Y adapter. Also there may or may not be two outlets available for one boat at the dock

Regarding the “other way”, that would be a 50amp 220 plug which provides 120V at 50amps on each of two legs. This is like an outlet for a welder or more familiarly a dryer outlet though the latter is only 30 amps per leg.

Pete

On Dec 14, 2010, at 4:17 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <> wrote:

If your bored I’d love to see an explanation of the difference between
50amps as a single 120v leg and whatever the other way is.

I assumed to upgrade from 30Amps to 50Amps and thus run more on the boat,
you would just upgrade the feed from the shore to the panel (shore power
cord, shore power plug, wiring to the AC Breaker) to be sized for 50Amps and
then you could run more off the panel than you could at 30Amps.

Is it more complicated than that?

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:03 PM, <
> wrote:

Yes. Originally wired for 50 amps as a single 120 volt leg

On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
> wrote:

Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat was

wired

for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics and I
assume all original original.

My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in the

AC

panel that are labeled as 30Amp.

Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).

On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with gusts to

the

mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following seas

and

current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice

short 2

hour jaunt.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson <

>wrote:

Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to change

the

amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas of the
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of the
P424
run.

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m

curious

if

the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19

<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

_______________________________________________
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https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

Yes. Originally wired for 50 amps as a single 120 volt leg

On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <> wrote:

Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat was wired
for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics and I
assume all original original.

My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in the AC
panel that are labeled as 30Amp.

Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).

On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with gusts to the
mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following seas and
current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice short 2
hour jaunt.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson <>wrote:

Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to change the
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas of the
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of the
P424
run.

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m curious

if

the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19

<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

_______________________________________________
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

I am fairly certain that the 50Amp inlet on the 424 is only a single phase (leg) connection. So just one hot leg of 50 amps.

On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:38 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Patrick,

Here’s the thing: even if you put a 50 amp cord and stuff, the boat is only
wired to handle one leg of the 220v circuit. Surprisingly, that’s not all
that unusual. I’ve seen large-ish motor yachts wired that way.

If you’re going to Europe where there’s 220vac single phase current, you
have to have a step-down transformer to run the normal boat loads. Stuff’s
just not wired the same there. It’s easier for a foreign 220v boat to hook
up here to 50 amps (2 hot leads, 1 ground) than it is to take a 50 amp 110v
single leg boat and hook it up there.

What you could do (and I would if I were going to 50amps) would to put a
second AC panel and box for big loads – heaters and air conditioning,
refrigerator, etc. and the other 50 amp leg to run all the other ac loads.
Then you’d have something!

Bob

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 2:01 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

I have contemplated moving the shore power connection and getting a longer
cord. Wonder if I should replace the 50amp main AC breaker and put in a
50amp shore cord…
Might be better to do a different modification to accommodate overseas
power….

Well now I’ve got some research to do I guess.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 6:55 AM, John Stevenson <

wrote:

Same here, 50A main breaker. I have a 30A breaker at my isolation
transformer up stream from the panel, so this breaker doesn’t protect

much.

All of the sub-circuit breakers are 15A or less, except the frig and the
A/C, which are 30A and 20A respectively. Can’t explain the 30A for the
frig, which appears factory installed. I don’t believe the old Grunert
(died in 2001) drew more than 10A.

I could use 50A service right now. It’s really cold in Jacksonville

(once

again I didn’t go far enough south). Back to breaker roulette trying to
juggle a couple of space heaters, the frig and hot water heater.

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 6:05 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Pat,

When I replaced my charger/inverted I found the same thing. The wiring

was

good for 1 leg of a 50 amp service. My main breaker is 30 amp, tho. I

had

to
replace all the wiring from the plug on.

If you check the plug you may find the wires don’t fit properly as I

did.

Bob

I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 14, 2010 4:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <

wrote:

Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a

tad

perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat was

wired

for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been

replaced

after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics

and

I

assume all original original.

My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in

the

AC

panel that are labeled as 30Amp.

Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).

On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island

in

Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with gusts

to

the

mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following

seas

and

current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice

short
2

hour jaunt.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson <

wrote:

Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to

change

the

amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also

used

Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So

I

would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas of

the

70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of

the

P424
run.

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m

curious

if

the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to

the

panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19

<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19

Thanks,

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

Thanks.

On 12/14/2010 11:30 AM, Linus Martinez wrote:

Quote:

Pete

Will you give me your email I have something that should not be on the
list.

Linus

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

There is some great stuff in those early ones like a great design for a
side boarding ladder and a cockpit table.

Pete

On 12/10/2010 2:37 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:

Is this going to be our christmas gift this year? 😉

-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 12:45 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:

I am just now, finally, scanning all of early Pearson 424 newsletters so
they can be put online. Does anyone have a hardcopy (or searchable pdf) of
issues 26, 27, and 28? I have 1 through 25 and 29.

Pete

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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

So where does “Flounder” come into this movie you guys are producing?

On 12/8/2010 3:52 PM, SilverHeels wrote:

Quote:

I never knew that, Adam. OK, so there’s Johnson (of course), Duramax (what a guy!), and Brad (the wimp). What other boy porn star names are you familiar with?

🙂

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

That was a long discussion a while ago. “Cutless” was the trademark.
You might even find for sale copies of the original ads for the bearing
in ebay. Back when we all would have grown up with lathes, etc, the
concept of a bearing cutting less of your shaft would have rung true.

On 12/8/2010 2:44 PM, SilverHeels wrote:

Quote:

Thanks, Pete. Every little bit helps stretch the cruising kitty. (Looks like the eBay sellers spell it “cutless.” I never have been clear on what’s correct.)

---

SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us

---

---

Original Message

---

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

I found them even cheaper on ebay search for brad or flounder cutless
or cutlass

Pete

On 12/8/2010 1:18 PM, SilverHeels wrote:

Quote:

Excellent! Thanks, Patrick. I believe that’s what I bought last time. Just couldn’t find the data in my files.

FYI, the site you mentioned, fisheriessupply.com, is selling that cutlass bearing for $109.37, but it’s only $69.99 at http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/products/navalbrassinchcutlessbearing.aspx .

Tor

---

SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us

---

---

Original Message

---

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

Flounder or Brad I believe

On 12/8/2010 9:43 AM, SilverHeels wrote:

Quote:

Maybe it was 6″. Also, what outside diameter?

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SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us

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[petedd]

Me either.

On 12/8/2010 8:36 AM, Robert Fine wrote:

Quote:

I knew they existed but never knew the name of the part.

Thanks!

Bob

On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 9:25 AM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:

Quote:

What is a kellum?…. This is a kellum:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hubbell-Kellems-Grip-07401010-NPT-1-2-500-625-dia_W0QQitemZ260652545766QQcategoryZ26213QQcmdZViewItem

On 12/7/2010 8:44 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:

Quote:

I found no great way to support the wires wen I did my rewire. The
original
wiring was primary wire (individual wires), tied in a knot with a glob of
sealant where it exited the mast. The knot provided wire support. I went
with Blue Sea cable clams to support and protect the wire where it exited
the mast. I then P-clipped the wires on the outside of the mast. I was
refinishing my spars at the same time and if I had t to do over I would
have
cut the masthead off and put in a kellum to support the wires from the
masthead.

Example of before : http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4617533475/
After: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4747421038/

I’m sure it’s going to last long enough till the next electronics upgrade
will be needed.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Tue, Dec 7, 2010 at 7:24 PM, Rich Carter<>
wrote:

Adam,

Quote:

A ground loop within the mast is of no concern since the wires are laced
together and shielded. A problem might arise if there is a ground loop
from
your breaker panel to the base of the mast as might occur if some wires
are
fed through different harnesses on the way to the mast. This might
generate
a small magnetic field and cause compass errors, though I’d frankly be
surprised if you could measure any deflection. Of greater concern is
electrical noise that might get generated and show up as noise on your
electronic equipment. This might happen if you operate a strobe light or
horn. The horn in particular could cause problems in anything from your
depthsounder to your autopilot since it consumes a lot of current and is
electrically noisy.

Ground loops are hard to avoid on a boat since much of the equipment gets
grounded together through interface cables or chassis grounds. Some
equipment like GPS provide optical isolation in the interface for this
reason, but much of the stuff is not as robust. I suggest avoiding ground
loops where possible. Unless there is some reason to tie grounds
together
at the base of your mast you are better off leaving them isolated.

Rich

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Original Message

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Quote:

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[petedd]

What is a kellum?…. This is a kellum:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hubbell-Kellems-Grip-07401010-NPT-1-2-500-625-dia_W0QQitemZ260652545766QQcategoryZ26213QQcmdZViewItem

On 12/7/2010 8:44 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:

Quote:

I found no great way to support the wires wen I did my rewire. The original
wiring was primary wire (individual wires), tied in a knot with a glob of
sealant where it exited the mast. The knot provided wire support. I went
with Blue Sea cable clams to support and protect the wire where it exited
the mast. I then P-clipped the wires on the outside of the mast. I was
refinishing my spars at the same time and if I had t to do over I would have
cut the masthead off and put in a kellum to support the wires from the
masthead.

Example of before : http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4617533475/
After: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4747421038/

I’m sure it’s going to last long enough till the next electronics upgrade
will be needed.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Tue, Dec 7, 2010 at 7:24 PM, Rich Carter<> wrote:

Quote:

Adam,
A ground loop within the mast is of no concern since the wires are laced
together and shielded. A problem might arise if there is a ground loop
from
your breaker panel to the base of the mast as might occur if some wires are
fed through different harnesses on the way to the mast. This might
generate
a small magnetic field and cause compass errors, though I’d frankly be
surprised if you could measure any deflection. Of greater concern is
electrical noise that might get generated and show up as noise on your
electronic equipment. This might happen if you operate a strobe light or
horn. The horn in particular could cause problems in anything from your
depthsounder to your autopilot since it consumes a lot of current and is
electrically noisy.

Ground loops are hard to avoid on a boat since much of the equipment gets
grounded together through interface cables or chassis grounds. Some
equipment like GPS provide optical isolation in the interface for this
reason, but much of the stuff is not as robust. I suggest avoiding ground
loops where possible. Unless there is some reason to tie grounds together
at the base of your mast you are better off leaving them isolated.

Rich

Quote:

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[petedd]

It’s a shame that yards do these things…

On 12/2/2010 3:35 PM, Adamlaw wrote:

Quote:

Yup. A laugh riot, punctuated by the splintering of teak. They made me do all the dangerous, stupid stuff too. I posted about the unstepping earlier.

Adam Silverstein
-iPhone

On Dec 2, 2010, at 4:26 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:

Quote:

As in pulled the mast with the table still attached? LOL!!!

On 12/2/2010 12:33 PM, Adamlaw wrote:

Quote:

This yard tried to pull my folding cabin table through the little hole in the coachroof. They are well-meaning.

Adam Silverstein
-iPhone

On Dec 2, 2010, at 1:48 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:

Quote:

IMHO, this is one of those have the yard do it things.

-p

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:

Quote:

In the boat, you might try this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear a
dust mask when using this)

I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.

Pete

On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:

Quote:

This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could
probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut
aluminum with no trouble.

http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html

harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets
better and better…

Rich

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