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Could be a bad connection somewhere between alternator and tach. The tach is electronic, actually measures frequency of AC from alternator before it is rectified to DC to charge batteries. If the batteries are at full charge, regulator shuts down the alternator. My tach actually drops to zero if the batteries are full as the solar panels dominate. It could be that the regulator cuts in and out with engine running but some load on the batteries. This would cause the tach to flicker a bit.
QuentJust a quick note: The petcock with the opening between the two handle wings typically opens by screwing in, not out.
QOur W-58 has a petcock on the side of the upper t-stat housing to vent air. Absent that, you might try loosening the clamp on the “L” shaped hose between t-stst housing and exhaust manifold. We also have an overflow tank in the port cockpit locker that is teed off the hoses to the hot water heater.
QuentAlso should mention that there was some stress corrosion cracking on the tangs connecting the lowers to the mast. Good idea to check that too.
Looks like spider web cracks on the surface, but goes all the way through the metal. If you can’t get the blue stuff, another way is to polish stainless really well with Mother’s Mag Wheel Polish and look at light reflecting off the surface.
QuentHi Dan-
If you have a relatively calm spot, you should be ok as long as you don’t remove too many shrouds at once. Leave the uppers in place when you do the lowers, and vice versa. The fore and back stays should be backed up by halyards when you undo them, obviously one at a time.
More important, I suggest that you actually remove and inspect the chainplates, especially if you remove the cabinetry boxes around them and see some staining or rust. Stainless steel does not last forever in salty, tropical conditions.
I wrote a few articles on this stuff a few years ago. If you go to Ocean Navigator magazine website and search Kinderman they should be there.
Regards,
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132Thanks, guys. Good advice all. The first box just arrived from Defender with a compressor. Ordered the stuff yesterday morning.
Stuck my head in bilge. Quickly concluded there is wisdom in leaving the cool but fragrant air down there, or vented outside. I’m leaning to the solution of mounting the compressors under the galley sole, maybe ducting air from lower bilge, then extracting the warm air to outside the boat. Amazing how small the compressor unit is, 12″x6″x6″.
Two of them for 1/2 cubic foot.
QuentHi Bob-
Wow! Nice job. I did open up that part of the cabin sole once early on to replace the seacock but closed it up again. Might have to do that again. Have you experienced any moisture issues with the compressor down there?
QuentHi Rich-
Yep, that’s where I figured the freezer compressor would go. Freezer box is in the corner between sink and stove. Isotherm gives you about 6′ of tube between the evaporator and compressor. Since I’m going air-cooled, I’m trying to stay away from the engine. If I have to, I’ll go under the quarter berth for the freezer, and where you said for the refrig.
Kollmann recommends air-cooled as longer lasting than water cooled (certainly cheaper) and we have lots of electric and good insulation.
Kollmann also suggests pulling the cooler air from the bilge. I guess that will allow me to sniff out any holding tank problems.
Boats are always compromises!
QDon’t know if this will help but thought I’d mention it. Westerbeke 63 on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WESTERBEKE-MARINE-DIESEL-ENGINE-63-hp-4-cyl-/280958458890?hash=item416a6ddc0a&item=280958458890&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtrQuent
Jack-
Keep an eye on the oil quality in the v-drive. Those fragments come from the part of the case that keeps the cooling water out of the oil!
QuentI think Rich is correct regarding the problem with side loading. If you can configure the second alternator as close as possible to 180 degrees from the original, much of the side load will cancel out.
We drive both alternators from one Balmar 612 regulator. The regulator sees it as one 200 amp alternator, with four belt drive, minimal side loading as they are about 150 degrees apart, and considerably less cost than a 200 amp unit.
One downside for us, the second alternator, mounted outboard to starboard on the old refrigeration compressor bracket, was not quite rigid enough. On the long motor trip up and back to Florida, the boltholes in the alternator wore considerably, as did the bolt. Now looking for a replacement front case for a Balmar 100 amp alternator.
QuentHi Bob-
Rich makes good points. Perhaps there are a couple other considerations.
We have two 100 amp alternators on a W-58. One is in place of the original with two 1/2″ belts, the other on a bracket on starboard side originally intended for the refrigeration compressor, also two belts.
My experience is that the capacity of the alternator is less important than the load. Your 60 amp alternator if maxed out is a pretty big load for one belt. The max we see is about 150 amps split between two alternators. This only happens for a short time, but we still have to adjust the belts infrequently.
There is a tradeoff between belt contact area and belt tension so for the same load, a single belt will have to be tighter than two belts. The problem is that the belt also drives the water pump and if you make it too tight, the excessive side loading might damage the pump.
For dual belts, you will need a double sheave water pump pulley. You can either buy one from Westerbeke ($$$!) or have a sheave added from another pulley by a machine shop.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132
