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Hi Chuck-
Thanks for the great picture! It just became our screen saver. it is a small world. A couple days ago we saw Ketch You Later in St Leonard Cr off PAX River, and now we are in Onancock a couple slips down from Jubilee (#100) put to shame by her gleaming appearance. These 424s are everywhere. Probably be back in Mill Cr Wednesday. Will you be around?
QuentWe bought a 90% (more or less) jib from Rolly Tasker through National Sail Supply for our self tacking setup. Sail was inexpensive, very well made and finished, and had all the extras like foam luff, sunbrella cover, leather, etc. No size or fit problems as it is made to your measurements.
Shipping from FL about $50, no duties or sales tax. Delivery was about three weeks. Several lofts now import RT sails including Bacon’s in Annapolis. National Sail Supply is the first.
QuentJack-
You might want to check out Balmar’s website for advice on belts. Probably you want a very high quality automotive belt, most likely 1/2″ wide if you have a small case Balmar. For length, either get the counter guy to measure the old belt, they should have a device for this, or run a piece of tape around the outside of the pulleys then measure it.
QuentRich-
You might want to get that domestic made stuff in writing. Doyle does have a production loft in China.
QuentGuys, the problem, in my opinion, is that water gets into the deck core around the lifeline bases then sits along the outside edge of the deck eventually degrading the balsa core. Yes, strong core replacement is necessary under the lifeline bases. I use epoxy with high density filler there. The rest of the voids need to be filled so that water cannot collect in the future. My experience with canned foam has been good. I extend the straw with copper tube to fill from the back, and with a little care, there have been no foam overruns.
The only problem I’ve found is that the cured foam, for some reason I don’t understand, fools my moisture meter into thinking the deck is wet.
Tor, sounds like the guy who you heard about could ruin a boat with any choice of material.
Silicon caulk won’t cure unless it is exposed to the air. I would be reluctant to use it inside the deck.
Many boats, Pearsons included, with balsa core decks were built with open seams in the core. Water gets in and eventually finds its way to the lowest area of the deck. Here in the north, it freezes and does damage, or finds its way into the boat.
QuentSo canned one part foam, if you don’t need structural support, works fine to fill and seal cavities where water would collect.
QuentAnyone have experience replacing core with high density foam? I’d like to do that in the cockpit, but I’m worried about the expansion pressure distorting a large flat surface.
QuentHi Rich-
Good that you caught it. We have done similar repair on most of the stachions. I find that a coat hanger works well for pulling out the bad balsa core out 10-12 inches from the access hole.
Actually, the top skin is pretty thick. Except in the proximity of the stanchion base, canned insulation foam worked ok to fill the space left.
We also added bases on top of the deck made from dumpster obtained fiberglass about 1/4″ thick about twice the size of the stanchion base to spread the load. Doesn’t look all that great, but so far has kept the bunks dry.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132A friend used these lights on his boat. They look good and thrw plenty of light.
http://www.lnt.com/show_product/52109-13084
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Hi Tor-
I agree with you. Can’t speak for the POs, but I never anchor without a snubber, even here in usually calm Chesapeake. However, even our rather modestly powered Lewmar 900 windlass, lifting chain and a 60# Manson, is enough to flex the platform a bit. From what I’ve read and experienced, it’s not always necessary to flex stainless to its limits to make it fail. A little stress for a long time, salt water, and a warm climate will do the job on stainless steel.
QHi Patrick-
Another thing you might try is to take the cap off the coolant overflow tank then start up the engine and look for bubbles in the coolant. The white smoke is probably water or coolant leaking into the exhaust. If the white amoke stops, then engine pressure is holding it back. If exhaust gas is getting into the coolant (bubbles) you might have a head gasket problem.See if you can get your hands on one of those IR thermometers that look a little like a gun and read the temperature of whatever you point at. Take the temperature at various spots on your engine, especially around the thermostat housing and exhaust manifold. Could be a gummed up thermostat or circulation pump.
No water in the oil is a very good sign.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132We are a few hull numbers before you, Dan. Also have the metal (bronze?) and glass port. Installed an electric sender and guage which is somewhat erratic probably because of a bad connection somewhere. Put the port back in, makes a good skylight.
Plan to take the port back out soon to remove the rotted balsa in the cockpit sole with a coat hanger. Vintage boats are such fun!Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant, #132We have about 125′ of 5/16 BBB shackled to a similar length of 5/16 HT, no nylon. Most of the chain stays behind the water tank. Only in deep achorages do we have to manually move much chain to avoid castling and jamming the windlass. The 60# Manson has always stayed set on short scope while we moved chain, but that’s mostly in Chesapeake Bay’s easy anchorages.
I think that there are two factors here for minimizing castling. First is to have as long as possible freefall distance from windlass to chain locker. We use a curved plastic pipe to guide the chain aft from the bow to a deeper spot but pipe is short so not to diminish freefall distance.
Second is to have as big a footprint as possible in the chain locker so the chain can spread out. Modified water tank might work if there is still enough freefall distance after you guide the chain there.
Quent
