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quent
ParticipantJim-
Regarding a below deck unit, Edson the steering unit manufacturer is pretty much opposed to attaching to the steering quadrant. Tiller arms are available from other sources.
There are several discussions regarding autopilots on this forum. Suggest you try a search.
Regards,
Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant, #132quent
ParticipantCan label says
F501400Q
B#1838
Sea Ray old white 70-79
Bar code: 88574006970If I might make a suggestion: You can’t gelcoat over paint. Perhaps try to compound off the name by hand, not machine. If once the paint is off, if you aren’t happy with the result, have a good gelcoat guy match and repair the transom. A good job would match very well and save you a lot of work.
Qquent
ParticipantSorry, wrong Spectrum. Below email from the right one. Ask for Kathy Shammo.
Best regards,
QuentYou’d need to send at least a quarter size chip from the boat and they will see if it matches anything we carry. If it does not match an in stock item they can make a custom match at a gallon minimum.
Thanks
Spectrum Color
135 E Davis Industrial Dr
St Augustine FL 32084
800-754-5516
February 26, 2011 at 11:18 pm in reply to: Rubrails — how to lift boat without damaging rubrails #76618quent
ParticipantMaybe use a bigger, wider travel lift so the strap doesn’t press on the rubrail? Place where we often haul out uses wax paper under the straps to avoid scratching the paint. Sounds strange but apparently works.
QuentFebruary 20, 2011 at 12:39 pm in reply to: reinforcing hull in forward cabin/hull oil canning #76776quent
ParticipantThat’s pretty much what we did, and what Bill Shaw recommended. As a DIYer, I’m always a bit shocked at boat repair prices. Removing the foam backed liner ws most of the work,IMHO.
I suggest that since this job requires strong secondary bonding, ie bonding to already cured fiberglass, you confirm that they use epoxy rather than polyester resin. Also be sure that they are going to glass the shelves to the hull. As Rich pointed out, the shelves provide much reinforcement to these panels.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132_______________________________________________
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February 20, 2011 at 12:39 pm in reply to: reinforcing hull in forward cabin/hull oil canning #76616quent
ParticipantThat’s pretty much what we did, and what Bill Shaw recommended. As a DIYer, I’m always a bit shocked at boat repair prices. Removing the foam backed liner ws most of the work,IMHO.
I suggest that since this job requires strong secondary bonding, ie bonding to already cured fiberglass, you confirm that they use epoxy rather than polyester resin. Also be sure that they are going to glass the shelves to the hull. As Rich pointed out, the shelves provide much reinforcement to these panels.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132quent
ParticipantSounds like an upgrade opportunity, or you could try cruising Ebay for a while, where such things occasionally appear.
Frankly, I’ve never had much luck with second hand electronics.
Quent_______________________________________________
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quent
ParticipantSounds like an upgrade opportunity, or you could try cruising Ebay for a while, where such things occasionally appear.
Frankly, I’ve never had much luck with second hand electronics.
Quentquent
ParticipantHi Adam-
I suggest that you install a separate tiller arm for the drive rather than attach it to the quadrant. The choice of 12″ or 7″ drive depends on how long the tiller arm is from the center of the rudder shaft to the attachment point on the tiller arm. If you pop open the inspection port just aft of the steering pedestile, you can guage the turning range of the rudder between stops. The Edson catalogue has some info on these calculations.
We installed a 12″ range Octopus drive. I suppose a 7″ drive would work with a shorter tiller arm since they have plenty of power. Got the tiller arm from Hamilton Marine.
Rudder movement is quite small under most conditions so I doubt there would be much difference in power consumption between the two drives.
We choose the 12″ drive because the longer tiller arm put less lateral force on the rudder shaft. See discussion on this site on upper rudder shaft bearing issues.Quent
Clairebuoyant #132_______________________________________________
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quent
ParticipantHi Adam-
I suggest that you install a separate tiller arm for the drive rather than attach it to the quadrant. The choice of 12″ or 7″ drive depends on how long the tiller arm is from the center of the rudder shaft to the attachment point on the tiller arm. If you pop open the inspection port just aft of the steering pedestile, you can guage the turning range of the rudder between stops. The Edson catalogue has some info on these calculations.
We installed a 12″ range Octopus drive. I suppose a 7″ drive would work with a shorter tiller arm since they have plenty of power. Got the tiller arm from Hamilton Marine.
Rudder movement is quite small under most conditions so I doubt there would be much difference in power consumption between the two drives.
We choose the 12″ drive because the longer tiller arm put less lateral force on the rudder shaft. See discussion on this site on upper rudder shaft bearing issues.Quent
Clairebuoyant #132quent
ParticipantHave you tried taking the painted name off with rubbing compound?
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quent
ParticipantHave you tried taking the painted name off with rubbing compound?
Qquent
ParticipantYou are right, a quart is a lot of gelcoat. Spectrum’s minimum purchase.
Didn’t get to it before winter. Will experiment this spring based on some stuff I’ve read, unless I can find someone cheap and good at gelcoat.
Open to suggestions….
Quent_______________________________________________
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quent
ParticipantYou are right, a quart is a lot of gelcoat. Spectrum’s minimum purchase.
Didn’t get to it before winter. Will experiment this spring based on some stuff I’ve read, unless I can find someone cheap and good at gelcoat.
Open to suggestions….
Quentquent
ParticipantMine runs about 50 pounds.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132_______________________________________________
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