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Here’s how one owner did it on a P-424:
http://www.oceannavigator.com/content/installing-powerful-belowdecks-autopilot
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here’s how one owner did it on a P-424:
http://www.oceannavigator.com/content/installing-powerful-belowdecks-autopilot
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132I sent a sample of fiberglass from the cockpit to Spectrum Color, Tacoma WA. They matched it to Sea Ray Old White 70-79, their #B1838. Not cheap, but cheaper than custom mix. Haven’t opened the can so I’m just taking their woed for the match so far.
Quent
Clairebouyant #132
Edgewater, MD_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I sent a sample of fiberglass from the cockpit to Spectrum Color, Tacoma WA. They matched it to Sea Ray Old White 70-79, their #B1838. Not cheap, but cheaper than custom mix. Haven’t opened the can so I’m just taking their woed for the match so far.
Quent
Clairebouyant #132
Edgewater, MDHi Jim-
Well, welcome to the P-424 community. You might want to take this over to the mail list as the chit-chat does not get as much attention. There are probably as many opinions on the suitability of this boat for offshore as there are owners. Many owners have made extensive voyages as you have probably noticed.
Regarding your question, the area over the v-berth and below the shelf is slightly concave on the interior. The balsa (1/4″ will do) serves only as a spacer between two layers of fiberglass. It conforms to the shape easier than plywood would. The schedule if I remember correctly was one layer of mat, then balsa covered by another layer of mat, then a layer of woven roving. Fore and aft edges of the balsa should be tapered to avoid a hard edge. Not a terribly big job. If you already stripped off the vinyl and foam, you might as well do the fix.
I think our boat was used a bit harder than your boat. I would suspect that if she surveyed OK, that you are in good shape.
We also had some repair work on the transom where the backstay chainplate attached. Clairebuoyant is a sloop and has one centered backstay chainplate.
QuentHi Jim-
Are you concerned with the hull between the caprail and the v-berth or the space just aft of the v-berth?
If you search the forum, there is discussion of “oil canning” deflection of the hull in the first area. Bill Shaw actually addressed this in the old National Pearson organization newsletter. He suggested several layers of woven roving and mat fiberglass sandwiched with balsa core to stiffen this area.
Regarding the second area, at least one well used P-424 required repair/ reenforcement in this area.
On Clairebuoyant, we also repaired some of the bulkhead tabbing on the port side galley/salon area.
I think it all depends on how hard you have used or intend to use the boat.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132Here is the VD manual. I think we all have model 71c, no reduction.
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/bw_sch_fs.htmlThe VD shifts by hydraulic pressure, but power is transmitted directly through a gearset. There would be no damping of power pulses in the transmission unless the transmission clutches were slipping, which would be a bad thing.
QuentChewed up gears, not clutch plates? I could be wrong about VD, but in the marine transmissions I’ve seen the gears were always engaged, and the clutch packs got squeezed together to engage the output shaft. I would think that ripping teeth off the gears would take a lot of force, like maybe jamming a log in the prop. Something that you would notice.
QType of Engine Westerbeke W58
– Type of Transmission and gear ratio Velvet Drive 1:1
– V-Drive model RV20 2:1
– RPMs at idle 800
– Gear Backlash Level: moderate but smooths out at 1,000 rpm
Westerbeke damper plate
We replaced damper and rebuilt both trans and v-drive when we got Clairebuoyant. Two damper plate springs were in the bottom of the bellhousing when we got her.
It would also be interesting to know how much play there is in the v-drive between input and output shafts, and what prop and stuffing box is used. We do have a bit of play probably from the u joints in the input shaft housing.
At low speed the diesel might be a bit rough, but there would also be less drag on the v-drive output shaft. Things would bang around a bit more in the v-drive.
The VD is a strong transmission. It should handle a lot more power than these small diesels produce.
Is it possible something in the VD broke off and jammed up the works?
QuentThanks, guys. Paint or tape seem like good options. I’ll probably go with tape. We will cover up that stripe of unfaded gelcoat.
The teak eyebrow was bedded in silicon caulk, which held fast even after the screws were removed. So maybe the eyebrow could just be glued on.
Some sections of the eyebrow aren’t too bad if anyone needs some.
John, I hope you are keeping warm down there and in good health.
Best regards,
QuentHi Pete-
I have hard copy of #26, 27, and all but the first two pages of #28 ready to send to you.
Send me an e-mail or private message with your mail address.Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant, #132
Edgewater, MDIt would be interesting to know how many autopilot failures were due to drive failures and how many were electronics failures.
We lost our autopilot coming out the St. Mary’s river two years ago heading north. The Nexus electronic servo unit failed but the Octopus hydraulic drive was fine.
A friend who is a retired Navy electronics engineer suggested we might have encountered Navy degaussing equipment in the inlet. Our heading compass was 90 degrees out for a while.
Quent
