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First post was for W-60. I just Googled Westerbeke followed by part number. There were multiple sites, so look at all for good price and someone trustworthy.
There are also some sources on Ebay.
QuentHere’s one for $317. Possibly made by Seakamp.
http://www.halemarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_160&products_id=1844&zenid=3d0cf3c708c87265d88ee36d289e23e2
QuentBill
Search Westerbeke 21903 on Google.
http://www.aaamarine.com/servlet/the-672/21903-Westerbeke-2729-dsh-3-dsh-5-marine/Detail
Here’s one for $425. Really!
QuentNo bullets. Did my time at the stupid war de jour in the late 1960s and have not been a fan of bullets since. Did sell half my load to a guy who makes fishing lures last year. Apparently lead is either expensive if in convenient packages, or almost free if not convenient, like wheel balancing weights, and old sailboat keels.
Anyway, the deal expires in a few hours, after that you will all have to take your chances regarding stability in high salinity water because the deal was only good on April 1st!
QuentBought the lead a few years ago from a guy who decided to lighten up his centerboard equipped Bristol. I guess he was headed north to the Great Lakes.
Are you all sure that you want to take a chance? There is some large wind and waves in the tropics.
Act fast, this is a one day special deal!
QuentRich-
check out
http://www.autonav.com/html/anav5202.htmthe current AutoNav site.
QuentHi Rich-
Periodic scanning of Ebay might work, they show up there. Maybe ask the guys who do electronics installs for cost is no object sailboat racers if they have any take out units.
Of course, you have already upgraded the server, so you could just get NX2 units to replace the classic ones. If you do, I’d be interested in your old displays. Cactus USA in Mass., the US affiliate of Cactus Marine in UK got us some Nexus stuff at a good price.
Another option is just get a chartplotter that takes NMEA 0183 input. Our Raymarine c-80 displays about everything the multi did.
QuentRich-
West sells a fitting that attaches to 1″ stainless tubing with a male thread on the end. A stainless tube would be more substantial than plastic.
QuentHi Pete-
That would probably be a good idea. The Westerbeke wiring diagram shows one 20 amp breaker servicing both the glow plugs and the starter circuits.
QuentHi Walter-
We have a W-58, not a W-60, but they are probably wired in a similar manner.
The device with a button is a circuit breaker for the glow plugs. The other device is probably a relay for the starter solenoid circuit. This is required so that the current necessary to engage the starter does not have to go through the key switch or starter button. It could be that one of the connections is not good, and there is insuffient power to fully close the starter solenoid. I’d clean up all these connections and see if that fixes the problem. If that doesn’t work, replace the relay.
ABYC and Coast Guard do not require or recommend fusing the starter cable because of the necessity to always be able to start the engine. However, the starter should be wired through the main battery switch to allow this circuit to be disconnected. I also fuse the battery bank at a level to protect this unprotected starter cable. I think I have a 500 amp fuse there, which has never blown.
Regarding the use of welding cable for the starter, Pearson did this on our boat too. Welding cable is inadequate for engine spaces. The insulation will not stand up to oil, fuel, or the engine room temperatures. On Clairebuoyant, the insulation on the red starter cable softened and split lengthwise near the starter. Had the bare conductor touched the engine, we could have lost the boat to fire.Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132We have replaced a good bit of stainless steel. Chainplates, all but bow (Clairebuoyant is a sloop rig) companionway ladder risers, mast tangs just below spreaders. We’re watching a suspicious spot on the anchor roller frame, and a couple of the bolts holding it to the hull.
QuentMy guess would be that an accidental disconnect between the steering system and the rudder would be the only reason to use the emergency tiller. That would eliminate the friction.
In theory, the autopilot could replace the steering system but the only steering failure we have ever experienced was in the electronics rendering the autopilot useless..
Maybe you could attach lines to the emergency tiller to control it.
Best just to inspect and maintain primary steering system.
QuentHi Skip-
My understanding from talking to Edson guys at boatshow is that an autopilot drive puts a lot of force on the quadrant that it wasn’t designed for.. Their catalogue is pretty explicit about not doing it.
I seem to remember literature from some some autopilot company, maybe Autohelm or Navico that showed their product bolted to a quadrant so opinions differ. Maybe your PO was acting on the best availble information.
A good bronze tiller arm can be had for a couple hundred dollars and provides nice redundancy for the whole system. We mounted ours on the rudder shaft below the quadrant.
Quent
