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Revery
ModeratorJosh,
One thing you might run into (from personal experience) is finding an underwriter that is OK with you not having an engine. It proved impossible for us, so I hope you find otherwise! If you do, please let us know who will do it.Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorRyan,
We have a Muir Cheetah that’s been on Revery for years and it has served us well so far. If I were to buy one, though, I’d go with a Lofrans Tigress. A bit cheaper and have heard nothing but good about them.
As for where to get one? I got nothin’. Sorry. They seem to be priced similarly no matter where you look.
Evan
Revery
ModeratorDavid,
We put a 12K unit in the saloon…one vent. It does fine keeping the boat cool in FL summers.
However, we did it as a “survive while we’re unhappily in a marina” measure, not to chill the whole boat to 68 degrees. So take it with a grain of salt.
The biggest issue we ran across was running the ducting. I could find no acceptable way to run it fore or aft without major work.Evan
Revery #2191 user thanked author for this post.
Revery
ModeratorThanks David and Nikki. I’ll update the list.
Richard, thanks for the update! Side note…from the HIN, Dream Ketcher would be hull #63. I hope you’re enjoying the Sea of Cortez! That’s on our list.
Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorSo THAT’S a C plan. Thanks Chris n Connie!
On a side note, I’d be very surprised if you have #263. They stopped at ~220.
If you look for your HIN…starts with PEA…the 6th through 8th digits are the hull number. You should have it on your survey or bill of sale. If not, it’s stamped into the upper starboard corner of the transom.
Can you let me know so I can update the owner registry?
Thanks!Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorJosh,
Actually, we have no history on this hull other than what I gleaned from the YW ad.
PEA72 = Pearson 424, but PEA59 is more common and I’m not sure why they used 72 for a while (see below).
200 = the sequential hull number; 1 through 220 for the 424
M83A = Model year 83, first month. Which, according to USCG convention at the time 83A is actually August 82. Odd, yes.The PEA59 vs. PEA72 issue confuses me.
PEA72 was used for hulls 196, 198 through 200, 206, 208 through 212, and 214 through 217 (total of 14). Also, maybe 205 and 207 but we don’t have any info on those hulls.
PEA59 was used for all others.
Perhaps it’s related to the layout since Rob has the same layout as this one and is #198. If anyone knows why, I’m all ears.As for if she started life as a cutter or a ketch, she appears to be a factory ketch. Two things give it away:
1. Factory cutters have a “stump” on the foredeck that held the staysail boom and also have an inner baby stay.
2. A factory cutter’s mast sits about 8″ or so further aft than those on ketches and sloops. This was to counteract the center of effort moving forward due to the addition of the staysail.So, probably more info that you ever wanted, but there you go.
Good luck! A lot of work, but they’re solid boats.
Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorJosh,
If you know the hull number, I can look to see what history we have on her.Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorHi Roger.
I’ve got you covered. I even have the gaskets you’ll need. The paint is peeling, but everything is in good shape otherwise.
Let me know and we can figure everything out offline.Evan
Revery
ModeratorWelcome Rich!
I keep track of the ones I know are for sale, but know of none right now that aren’t on Yachtworld or Craigslist.
My #1 piece of advice is to find one that has already been repowered (and done well). Other than “hasn’t sunk”, that should be your biggest consideration, IMO. And I’m speaking from experience. I paid a fair price for Revery, but knowing what I know now, I might have passed or offered substantially less.
Everything else that I’ve dealt with has paled in comparison to our looming repower.It’s still a buyer’s market (but prices have been creeping up a bit), so you can afford to take your time and be picky.
My 2 cents…
Cheers,
Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorThanks for the heads up, Dawn Marie! I don’t see new signups (it’s confusing having a Ewan, administrator, and an Evan, owner database…lol).
I’ve got you updated and welcome to 424 ownership! IT should show up later this evening.Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorCheers, Rob! That pretty much aligns with the few blocks and bales that the PO left and appears dead simple.
I’m interested in how you run your sheets without the boom. I’ve been thinking about ditching the boom and adding roof-top tracks while I’ve got the headliner down. Is that how you rigged yours or did you just run the sheets through snatch blocks somewhere since you (and I) hank on the staysail?
I’m a KISS kinda guy and if I can avoid the complication of adding tracks…I’ve been semi-following your trip south on Instagram…rough times, brother!
I’m sitting right inside the Cape Canaveral lock. If you’re looking for a good place to stop once you get your engine going, get in touch. My truck and my hands are at your disposal.Revery
ModeratorThanks much!
And of course, I should have thought to look at other boats. I walk past an IP on my dock every day…duh!Revery
ModeratorSo I’ve got the upper and lower chainplates done/in and the backstay chainplate is at the shop. All told for those 7: $332 + $52 for the hardware. Pretty pleased with that. I think I’m going to have Garhauer duplicate the stem fitting…they did a great job for Pete Dubler and my local shop is a bit hesitant to tackle it.
The bigger issue has been the deck rot. Luckily, it didn’t go back far enough to have to remove skin, but it’s been fun digging it out and refilling with thickened epoxy.
Just thought I’d give an update so everyone can commiserate (or laugh).Cheers,
EvanRevery
ModeratorThanks Rob! We’re getting ready to do the same, so I’m glad your costs were close to my estimate (for the hardware).
Where did you source the materials?
And I second the question re: the lowers…Cheers,
Evan
Revery #219Revery
ModeratorThanks a lot, Rob! Yours do look a far sight better than mine. See the picture of my port forward.
However, I just ordered the flat stock and hardware this afternoon and visited a great little shop that will drill and round the ends for very little money. I’m going to have them do my backstay and stem fitting as well. I should be able to get away with less than $750, all told. Thankfully, I don’t have a mizzen and my stays’l fitting is in great shape. I knew this job was coming…Evan
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