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Peter,
What did the coaming plasTEAK cost? My coaming trim is tired looking and could use replacement.Rich
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Linus
I’m overpowered too. It’s nice to have extra power available. I can run at hull speed with the throttle half-way up and the engine purring. I don’t think you were hitting 8.5 unless you had current however. The best I can get is about 7.8 kts under full power with no current, 1500 RPM at the shaft. This throws quite a wake behind the boat and the stern wave runs about half-way up the transom. Fuel consumption is probably around 4 gal/hr at this speed. I have no way to compute this but this is what the engine is spec’d to consume at full power.Under sail, I think I can do a bit better than 7.8 under ideal circumstances. I don’t know why, perhaps the boat heels a bit or doesn’t squat so much.
My boat will run at about 7 kts through-the-water with little effort. This is my normal cruising speed with the shaft turning about 1100 RPM (engine 2800). I can run the throttle up a bit more and cruise at 7.3kts but the noise from the engine becomes a bit more annoying and I think my fuel consumption goes up to over 1gal/hr. That’s about 1250 RPM for the shaft. This is the point of dramatically diminishing returns.
Rich
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The shelf is glassed to the inside of the hull with a secondary bond. It isn’t a particularly strong attachment and can break free. It is attached to the forward and aft bulkheads with wood screws set into a 1″ square piece of wood. I don’t believe it is glassed to either bulkhead, but it’s the forward bulkhead that is the issue. The right way to fix this is to reinforce the whole forward section. If you just coastal cruise and don’t want to spend money on this repair, just reinforcing the attachment to the forward bulkhead is IMHO adequate. For coastal cruising, you can usually avoid the worst weather and head back into port if things go bad. The attachment to the aft bulkhead isn’t as much an issue because the shelf attaches there with an angle of less than 90 degrees. There is really nowhere for the shelf to go.
No two 424’s are the same. Inspect what your have and make your own decision based on your budget and level of comfort.
Rich
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Tor
I think you could make thin wood shims to take up any difference to 90 degrees.I don’t think that just putting brackets in would be enough for a bluewater passage. What I experienced was only about 35kts on the nose in the gulf-stream for about 36 hrs. Seas were steep because of the current but the waves were only about 15 feet. If you really want to take a 424 offshore, reinforcing the flat forward sections might be advised. My offshore experience is somewhat limited to one miserable trip. Someone with more experience than me might have a better opinion. My suggestion to beef-up the shelf attachment would be for coastal cruising. You never know what you’ll get even 5-miles out and it’s a cheap fix. Your brackets are somewhat larger than what I was suggesting but is it enough for offshore work? I don’t know…
Rich
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The most important thing is to reinforce the attachment of the forward shelf to the forward bulkhead.
Rich
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To my knowledge, the only area where there are problems with the hull is the forward section where the topsides are flat. I had to have the bow reglassed after a rough crossing to Bermuda several years ago. The hull broke free from the forward bulkhead. A quick fix is to reinforce the shelf attachment in the V-berth where the shelves attach to the forward bulkhead. This is cheap, easy and would have probably prevented the problem I had. If you are considering serious blue-water cruising, you might want to reinforce the hull above the V-berth bunk, particularly where it attaches to the bunk shelf and bulkheads. The problem occurs when driving upwind into a heavy sea. The boat lays over on one side. The bow rises over each wave and drops off the back side slapping the bow on the trough. This gives the flat bow section quite a pounding. A few days of this can do quite a lot of damage.
Rich
BlackSheep
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There must be an easier way to test hull thinness rather than drilling holes. Someone must make an ultrasonic gizmo that does this. Try searching ebay for ultrasonic hull thickness gauge.
If you endup drilling all those holes however, I’d be interested in learning the results.
Regards
Rich Carter
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It’s collectively our own fault. What do folks do when there is a hurricane warning? Do they come down and check their boats? Do they take their sails off and double their pennants? Do they help others do the same? No, they read their insurance policies and verify their coverage! A few of us are responsible mariners but how does the insurance company sort us out?
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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I replaced my topping lift with a steel wire. When at anchor, the rig used to pump at anchor in a moderate breeze making an annoying noise. With the steel topping lift, it no longer does this. I had to cover the top 5 or 6 feet of the wire with a plastic shroud cover to prevent the mainsail shackle from catching on the wire.
Regards
Rich
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Message got sent before I finished. Must have pushed the wrong button. Completed below
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I’ve never had in-mast furling but I have a couple of comments.
They can be very noisy when docked or moored. The wind can whistle across the back slot on the mast and make one heck of a racket.
They compromise sailing ability. The 424 isn’t known for it’s pointing ability and installing a roller-furling mast won’t help.
There are other less expensive
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You might at least change the transmission fluid twice. Once to get rid of the bad fluid and a second time to clean it out of residual water. If you caught it early enough there may be no damage as a result of water intrusion. You may be due for a rebuild anyway. Having the transmission fail while underway is no fun.
Regards
Rich
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Phil,
It’s sold as outdrive paint at almost any marine outlet. It comes in flat-black which makes my prop look mean and fast 😉
Rich
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I use the same Zinc based spray paint on my stainless prop. I follow with a coat of tin based outdrive spray paint. This keeps growth off the prop. The outdrive paint seems to adhere better if I first coat with the zinc spray paint. The zinc paint alone works OK but not as well as the tin paint.
Rich
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Thanks John,
I see two types of screens, one is round and the other is scooped. I see no mounting instructions so I don’t know which way the scoop is supposed to face. If I put the round type on, I don’t see how it could force water into the system. I’m not convinced that it won’t still get weed caught in it and eventually clog. Unlike the raw-water strainer, there is no convenient way to clean it however. Draggers pull up great clumps of weed. This sometimes finds its way into our mooring area. These are big clumps of weed. If I sucked one into even a 1.5 inch intake, I think it might clog though I might be able to pull the weed through.Rich
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