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As originally built, my 424 had the strainer attached directly to the top of the sea-cock with a bronze elbow. Sea-grass would get caught at the elbow. When I repowered, I removed the elbow and installed a new strainer. Power boats running through shallow water cut gobs of the stuff which floats along the channels. Grass doesn’t seem to cause problems anymore. I find it in the strainer which is easy to clean out. It’s the seaweed that has bulbs on it that gets stuck in the through-hull. Local fishing boats drag the bottom and pull up the stuff.
I always thought the elbow mount used by Pearson was a bad idea. The strainer hangs on the pipe fitting. If this fails, the boat will flood. Even if the fitting never fails, it’s a natural place for stuff to get caught.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/vdrivePan.JPGRich
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Peter
Your bushing is much thicker than mine. Yours looks bronze. Mine is stainless. On mine, side plate is just folded across the roll-pin which is welded to the plate. There are fine cracks on each side. There is also a tang on the center pin under the rod that mounts the reef hooks. It fits between the side-plates. Yours bulges out to support your thicker bushing. I have hull #47.Your bushing appears to have quite a lot of clearance for the center pin. It almost appears that your bushing is the wrong size. I wonder if your original fitting broke and was replaced with a close match. If someone replaced the fitting at some point, the tang would have needed to be cut off to accommodate the thicker bushing. A replacement bushing might solve your problem. Look for axle bushings at tractor-supply.
Rig-right has several possible replacements.
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Gooseneck_toggles.html#Gooseneck%20Toggles%20for%20a%201/2%22%20Vertical%20PinRich
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I have a bit of play in my gooseneck but not what I would call unusual. I took a close look at your photo and your fitting looks a bit different. I’ll send a photo of mine as shortly. Mine has a steel pin through the mast fitting as yours (3/8″?). The gooseneck fitting is a flat plate bent over a steel bushing whereas yours looks to be plastic. My steel bushing is welded to the plate. While examining mine, I noticed cracking near the pin. If you hadn’t sent your question, I would have never noticed until it failed. I’ll send it out to a welding shop this winter. I suggest that other owners inspect theirs.
My guess is that Pearson had some failures in the first few model years and redesigned the gooseneck to include a plastic bushing. This probably absorbs some of the shock load on a gybe. The plastic bushing is much larger in diameter. It may have deformed after several years of service and give some play to the fitting. A good hardware store may have a replacement.
Regards
Rich
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Probably a hole in your transmission cooler. I strongly suggest pulling the transmission and sending it out for a rebuild. Removal is a simple wrench job that you can do yourself and the rebuild should cost well under $1k. You can replace the heat exchanger for about $100. The rebuild should take a week or less. If your transmission was never serviced, it was probably due anyway.
While you have it out, take a good look at the damper plate. I don’t know much about them but I’m aware that there are springs in there that get weak with age.
Rich
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Odd, I’m sure mine were painted when the boat was built. Maybe it was an option when you ordered the boat.
Rich
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I think Pearson ordered them painted when they built them. I repaint mine every five years or so with one-part polyurethane. You can go nuts having them custom painted by a yard if you want ($$$). 2-part paint will last longer but will still need re-coating eventually.
Blistering around the fittings is unavoidable. There is probably something you can coat the fittings with before attaching to the mast that will help this. My rigger advised me to remove my winches and put a sheet of mylar under there. It’s on the list just below everything else that works but can be better. If you remove any fasteners, you should at least coat these with some kind of goop before reinstalling.
Rich
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I have an original grunert engine driven refrigeration system. I’ve replaced most of what’s there over the past 25 or so years, one piece at a time. If you have the same system and have questions, call me.
Rich
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I have 3/8 ht chain. 5/16 is a bit lighter and would probably work fine.
Rich
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The best I’ve ever seen without current or following sea is 8.3kts downwind in a blow. The actual hull speed is somewhere around 7.8kts and is the best I can do through the water under power. At half-throttle she does about 7.4kts. If I continue to pull the throttle up a wave climbs up the transom and the GPS SOG slowly goes up to 7.8. I cruise at a more modest throttle setting and make between 6.5 and 7.0kts which seems to be the sweet spot.
Here in the northeast, there are cruising areas that have significant currents. 3kts is not uncommon and a few spots have as much as 6kts. Cape Cod is one of those areas. If you plan the current correctly, you can count on an average SOG of about 8kts with some route legs averaging 11-kts. This makes an 80nm cruise in less than 10 hrs possible. If you don’t plan it right, you can spend all day and only make 40 miles. Having a good chart-plotter that computes and displays current such as Nobeltec VNS helps plan the cruise to make best use of the prevailing currents. There are current tables in Eldridge that let you plan this by hand.
Rich
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Bob,
I’m not sure about the entire engines. I heard that the W60 block was from Leyland off a British taxi. Westerbeke wisely chose not to use a Lucas starter. The electrical system in my old MG was Lucas and notoriously unreliable. I have no idea where the W58 originated. The optional high-capacity alternator that came with my W60 came from a deuce-and-a-half truck.The nomenclature used by Westerbeke is deceiving. The W60 wasn’t 60hp, more like maybe 50 on a good day going down-hill.
Rich
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Probably true. My old W60 starter was a common starter used in industrial engines such as fork-lifts. Hansen, the local Westerbeke dealer, offered to rebuild mine for over $600 many years ago. I got a brand new one from a local starter repair shop for about $150 instead. That’s why I now own a Yanmar.
Regards
Rich
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I block the forward part of the keel and the rudder skeg.
Rich
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Why the heck would they want to lift there? I’ve been hauling for over 25 years now and nobody has ever even suggested lifting by the keel. Are they afraid it will fall off when they lift the boat? I wouldn’t lift there. The back of the keel is hollow and not intended to bear weight.
Someone sent out a diagram a few years back showing the suggested lift points for the boat. For me, it’s where the sheet winches are. Sorry, I can’t seen to find it.
Rich
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