Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
The W60 came with two possible alternators, the stock 60A unit and an optional 120A unit. Perhaps Chuck was referring to the 60A unit? As I recall, the 120A unit I had put out about 120A until the batteries came up to 14.2v. The alternator eventually went bad and was replaced. I think it overheated.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That’s probably good advice. Since I need to renew the caulk on my chainplates this winter, I plan to remove them for inspection. I’ll polish them with a scotch-brite pad on a wheel. This should expose any cracks.
Here’s a cheap kit that should work on a small job like polishing the chainplates.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-surface-conditioning-kit-94196.htmlIf you keep your chainplates dry, I think there should be no reason for them to suffer from crevice-corrosion. This is difficult however. By the time you discover a leak, the chainplates have been wet for some time. I read somewhere that polishing the surface helps protect against crevice-corrosion. This is another reason to polish them if you pull them for inspection.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan
Its pretty simple. I pull my mast each winter and will be pulling it again today. I remove the cotter pings or rings in the turnbuckles. Then put a wrench in the shroud to keep it from turning and a large screwdriver on the turnbuckle. As I recall, counter-clockwise loosens the shroud. The mast will sit fine with either the uppers or lowers disconnected, but not both. You will of course have to retune your rigging.I use RV roof sealant for the shrouds. I get about 5 years before it starts to leak. This stuff stays flexible and therefore doesn’t crack when the rigging moves. I put a bead under the shroud plates and build up a layer on the top against the chain-plate, smoothing it out for appearance.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/proflex-rv-flexible-sealant/3245
Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Walter,
I had the same unit on my old W60. I brought it to a local shop and had them service it. This place rebuilds alternators and starters. He said it was a generic truck alternator and not a particularly good one. Here’s his contact information. You might find a similar shop in your local area.Deco
(603) 882-8186
278 Derry Rd, Litchfield, NH 03052I eventually had him replace the old unit with a better truck alternator. He matched the mounting geometry so that I could swap-in the new unit. As I recall, he had to drill-out the mounting hole from 3/8″ to 7/16″ to fit but otherwise the replacement dropped in. I think I paid under $200 for the replacement. Though he could probably fix your broken alternator, you might consider calling him and asking for a similar replacement and put your working alternator in the spares box. The only thing that you might want to consider is the size of the replacement you pick. The replacement he made for me is much larger than the motorola unit. This means that its hard on the belts. If my batteries are low, it can blow a fuse in the regulator because the alternator can pull more field current than my regulator can handle. You might want to stick to something in the 120A size.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Stephen,
I use a swivel between my anchor and chain. I haven’t noticed any problems due to chain twist. Have you considered putting a swivel in there?http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|638271|34760&id=142853
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent,
I suppose that the air in the bilge might be cooler than what’s in the cabin. You will of course heat the cabin in addition to drawing odors from the bilge. Why not return the warmed air to a different part of the bilge? This would keep the nasty odors down there and avoid heating the cabin.Good luck with the project.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent,
What about the space under the lower drawer in the galley? There’s quite a lot of room down there. I put an opening door on the side of the cabinet to access this space. I stow cookware down there, but if you had access, it might be a good place for a compressor and condenser.The process of cutting and installing a door down there isn’t all that difficult. I made my own door from the cutout. Its not that difficult if you have a table-saw and router.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/rcarterinterior/P8180007Would you be better off blowing the hot air into the bilge and drawing it in from the cabin?
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
My original W-60 came with an optional high-capacity alternator. The engine was fitted with four extra pulleys. One belt ran the water pump only. Two ran the refrigeration compressor and two ran the alternator. All brackets were fabricated by Pearson or Westerbeke when the boat was built. I had to replace the original high-capacity alternator at one point in time. I found a local supplier who matched the mounting dimensions. The replacement however was a much bigger unit. I had trouble getting the belts tight enough until I found the tool I mentioned.When I repowered, I had two extra pulleys added to my new Yanmar. The engine comes with just a single 3/8″ belt to drive the stock alternator and water pump. There’s no way that a single belt can drive a 160A alternator. I have a refrigeration compressor too which can at times present as big a load as the alternator. I had to get creative. I fabricated a custom mount for the compressor and alternator. It was a bit of work. Both accessories run using the same pair of belts. The original belt still drives the original alternator and water pump but nothing else.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/AccessoryMount.htmlYou must be careful to avoid excessive side-loads on a crankshaft. The more pulleys you add, the farther off the end of the shaft you’re center of effort will be. A pulley 12″ from the engine face will load the shaft twice as much as one 6″ out. Excessive side-loads can break your crank-shaft. How much side-load is acceptable is hard to determine. Yanmar publishes a complicated formula in their PTO specs. I checked with Yanmar before designing my brackets to make sure that I wouldn’t void my warranty. When tightening belts, its best to remember to get them tight enough but don’t go nuts with a pry-bar.
If all you have is a 60A alternator and water pump, I think you’ll be OK if you get a good belt and properly tension it. Let us know how this works out please.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
I assume that you have the proper belt size for your pulley arrangement. A single belt should be able to handle a 60A alternator. You might check to see that you are using a heavy-duty truck belt. These stretch less than normal belts. Any good automotive parts store can special order these.
http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycoweb.nsf/8264754109ad09a3862571b000513980/76f8220aaa855780862571b00066aed1!OpenDocumentYou can expect any belt to stretch when first installed. You should retention after 30 minutes of initial use.
Once a belt has burnished, it should be replaced. Avoid running the engine when the belts are slipping if possible. Reducing engine RPM until you can fix the problem usually saves the belt.
Here’s a link to a belt tensioning tool. I find this to be the best way to tension my belts.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0454182I have dual-belts on my installation but a much larger alternator. I still must retention my belts every now and then. The tool above makes it easy.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I met the owners of a boat that matches that description many years ago at a rendezvous in Edgartown. The owners loved their 424 but wanted a boat with a walk-through transom. Rather than trade their 424 in on a different boat, they had a yard cut the transom open. I don’t recall that they extended the aft section in any way. They made the cockpit a walk-through with a hinged drop-down seat. They also widened the aft bunk, a modification that I’ve considered since then. Their boat at that time was pristine, especially the brightwork.
I think they also removed the mizzen, making her a sloop with a split backstay. The owner put a wooden block in where the mizzen normally sits. He said that without the spar, there was no place to brace his feet. I don’t recall why he removed the mizzen. He said that he kept the spar in case he changed his mind.
They had some very nice canvas work too. There were probably other changes made but I don’t recall. I never asked what they spent for the modifications but $40K would be my guess. This was in 1988 or 1989.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jack
Hoses on the raw-water side should be engine intake hoses. There’s no way these can collapse. I suggest replacing them. If the hose is collapsing, it could restrict flow when running at higher engine speeds.
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|51|106370&id=315131
Defender should be able to get you overnight delivery at no additional cost. They are pretty good. Most marine stores stock hoses so if you can find a local guy you should be able to get them over the counter.If you have doubts about your heat-exchanger, they are not expensive to replace. I paid $78.82 for the unit in my boat. See if there’s a manufacturer and part number stamped on it somewhere. You might contact these guys for a replacement.
http://www.sen-dure.com/Marine.htmIf I understand your description below, water flows through your heat exchanger if you pull the hose off the output. This makes me wonder if an obstruction in the intake side is your real issue. A damaged water pump impeller or a blocked injection elbow can restrict flow. You might inspect the impeller to see if its damaged. If the injection elbow looks rusted on the outside, it may be restricted on the inside.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jack,
What kind of engine?
Most engines cool the transmission on the freshwater side but some use the seawater side for cooling. It sounds like you have seawater cooling your transmission and a blockage between the heat exchanger and intake through hull. Does a hose go between the heat exchanger and vdrive?Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jack,
An overheat issue should be something that we can coach you through. Is the engine pumping a full stream of water out the exhaust when running? Do you have white smoke in the exhaust when its running hot?Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jim,
I had them out a few years back but don’t recall any gasket. I think they are just bedded.I looked for an opening replacement but didn’t find one wide enough.
Replacing the teak plywood is straight forward. I used a multi-tool to make a clean cut elsewhere.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent
When I repowered, I took the opportunity to replace my compressor with a Sanden reciprocal compressor. Its a much better unit. I replaced the old piston compressor three times over a 15 year period but was plagued with leaks from the old style compressor. I have had no issues since I swapped it out for the Sanden. I got one with rotolock valves so refitting it was fairly simple. I didn’t have to open my system up to swap out the compressor. The compressor with proper valves was a special order. I paid around $350 from a shop that specializes in car AC systems. The unit I bought is probably too big for your DC motor. I’m told its a 6hp compressor. If you bring your old unit into a similar shop, they should be able to match it with a newer model. The mounts will be different. A conversion kit might be available or you could adapt your condenser assembly mounts to fit.This would be the time to switch over to R-134A if you haven’t done it already.
I considered a similar conversion when I replaced my engine. If I were tied to shore-power, it would be a no-brainer, but I’m rarely connected.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum