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There are no longer sufficient parts available to rebuild an RV-20. An
RV-26 will set you back around $3k.Rich
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I sent my velvet drive out for service a couple of years ago when a seal started leaking. I forget what I paid for the service but it was around $300. A full rebuild might cost twice that. Removal and reinstallation of the transmission is fairly simple. You may have to slide your v-drive forward a bit if you can’t manage to disconnect the drive shaft. This would require re-alignment which is a bit of a pain.
Rich
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Tor,
The case cooling jacket will eventually leak into the gearbox. You can tell
by pulling the dip-stick up to check the level. If you see that the oil is
the color of chocolate milk, you have a leak. The bearings will fail from
corrosion. It takes about 30 years for the jacket to rust through. You
used to be able to replace the RV-20 cases but they are no longer available.
The only real option is to replace with an RV-26.More info here.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Vdrive.htmlRich
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Will parts still be available? That’s the main reason I got rid of my W60 and repowered.
I considered this engine when I repowered but I couldn’t deal with TAD. He was rude and impatient.
Rich
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I purchased a 22″ Skyworth 12v TV on ebay a couple of years back. It seems to work great and was inexpensive. Power consumption is low. My only complaint is that I can’t seem to find a single remote control that works both the Tv and the Satellite dish set-top box.
Rich
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I had my sloop re-rigged about 15 years ago. As I recall, the bill was $13000. This included a new roller-furler. My rigger used Norsemen fittings for the lower connection and swage-fittings on the upper end. This was a bit more expensive than all crimp-fittings, but the bottom ends tend to corrode faster than the upper end. Norsemen and Stay-Lock mechanical fittings are more reliable. I also went up a size on the upper shrouds. If I had to do it again, I’d go the same route. I’m not sure I would go with a mail-order company. My rigger insured that everything fit properly. He provided a very competitive price (http://www.nerigging.com/). If you are in the northeast, you might give him a call for a quote.
You may be able to reuse your wire if you wish. I believe that you can purchase long turn-buckles that would allow you to cut off your existing turn-buckles and attach new ones. This of course only makes sense if your upper swage fittings look good.
Regards
Rich Carter
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You must be talking about the low-pressure lift pump. Put a 12V electric
fuel pump in series with it. Both have to fail. The electric pump makes it
easier to bleed too.
Rich
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Glad it helped. I should go through my web pages again and fix the broken
links. Its on the to-do list, just below a zillion other things.
Regards
Rich
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http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/ControlCables.html
Rich
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Not sure what’s down there either. After I put the door in, I put a shelf
down there to make the space usable. We store cleaning supplies in there.
Rich
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Rodd
I replaced my old cheesy cabin light fixtures years ago with brass cabin
lights.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|65136|328876|1116023&id=1883570The original lamps attach at the bottom of the lamp fixture and most of the
nicer replacements hang down. I put a nicely finished teak plate behind the
light to hide the original hole.
(see attached photo) This allowed me to pick an entirely different type of
fixture. A plastic mirror cut to about the same size might work if you
don’t want to make teak plates. The mirror would reflect the light and
improve lighting.I recently replaced the dim incandescent bulb with LEDs and it made a huge
difference below. The lamps are now bright enough to read by. As I’m sure
you know, these use very little power.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|65136|296901|743570&id=1250691Regards
Rich
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I swapped out my RV-20 for an RV-26 a few years back. The RV-26 has an oil pump. I’ve considered running it dry with an oil cooler since I installed it. Walter says absolutely no! The RV-26 runs warm to the touch even with cooling water. I think it would run hot without cooling water. I run it harder than the old RV-20 because my new engine is a bit bigger, but it doesn’t make sense that it would run that much warmer. I’m not sure why the RV-26 seems less efficient. Perhaps the added oil pump is part of the problem. When the cases eventually corrode, I may try an oil cooler anyway; assuming that I still own the boat. I hate the raw-water cooling.
I need a replacement gasket. No point in calling them now. They are in NJ near the Hudson River.
Rich
BlackSheep #47_______________________________________________
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Unless you have a yanmar, your engine runs the tach off the alternator. If your battery gets fully topped off, your regulator will turn off and stop driving your tack for short periods. If you have no other load on your batteries such as lights or an auto-pilot, the tach might turn off for several seconds. With a light load, it might turn off for less than a second and cause your tach to jump around. Hope this helps.
Regards
Rich
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Operating temperature would depend on your particular installation and how you use it. My old W60 with RV-20 never got the V-drive even warm. Here in NE, water temperatures rarely go over 70deg, and the W60 is really less than 50hp. At that, I never really ran it hard. I was probably only driving with 35hp max. My yanmar 75 with an RV-26 runs warm to the touch. It has an oil cooler but the yanmar doesn’t pump as much cooling water. 134 seems reasonable if you run hard.
Regards
Rich
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I assume that you are replacing the stove. I replaced mine last year with a new hillerange, the same basic dimensions as the old stove but an updated design. It fit without any significant modification. I had to grind off a very small notch in the bottom of the stove opening for the lock handle to clear and put in a small block of teak where the lock pin engages. The lock keeps the stove from gimbolling when not underway. It works well. I’ll try to send a photo soon. I got the Princess 3174 in black Euro design. This has a single grate across the top of the stove rather than individual burner grates. The burners have an electric ignitors and thermocouple safety valve.
http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/siteFiles/resources/docs/Seaward/GasRangeDatasheet.pdf
Rich
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