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I see that you’ve had several responses about belt size. When repowering, I found that there is a lot more to belts than just size.
From my repowering notes:
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/AccessoryMount2.html“After much research, I found that belts come in two basic designs, one is designed to take a shock load and the other is designed to
wear well. The first type is thinner. It avoids damage when subjected to a shock load by slipping slightly. They usually come with ribs
on the outside to provide better cooling. They tend to wear out quicker, but rarely snap. The other flavor has a thicker construction
and slips less. These belts frequently have ribs on the inside. Since they have more surface area in contact with the sheave, they don’t
slip as easily. When subjected to a shock load, they may snap.My multi-stage regulator puts quite a load on the alternator when it switches to the fast charge setting. One of my battery banks has a
pair of large AGM batteries. This type of battery accepts a recharge rate much faster than conventional wet-cell batteries. When the
alternator kicks into high gear, it puts a shock load on the belts. I’ve had belts snap on me. When they break, they can be thrown off
the pulley with considerable force. As mentioned earlier, I broke my throttle cable that way.Balmar recommends the Green Stripe belt by Gates. This is a low-slip belt that, in my opinion, is not suited to shock loads. They also
recommend the Dayco Top-Cog V-belt. In my opinion, this will last longer and be more reliable.”Regards
Rich
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Dan
Keep us posted please. I’m not willing to experiment anymore. I’ve tried all kinds of products.Rich
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Dan,
No, I just the normal stuff. It looks great for a year, then darkens. It will build up a bit with each coat until it starts to peal. Then I have to strip it off and start over. I find it easy to strip with a heat-gun and scraper. I then follow with a teak cleaner and a light sanding. After over 30 years of sanding, the wood has gotten thin in some areas exposing crew heads. These can be sunk a bit deeper but its a lot of work. We had good weather this spring so we stripped and refinished all the exterior brightwork. It looks nice. If I ever get another boat though it would have little or no exterior woodwork.Rich
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Interesting… The link you provided suggests an exterior spar varnish distributed by Valspar. It doesn’t appear to be available at Lowes however.
http://valsparglobal.com/val/resident/manowar.jsp
I wonder how this would hold up on exterior brightwork? I’ve been using epifanes on the few exterior pieces I varinish. This is what a lot of folks use on their boats. If you put on about 8 coats, it lasts about three years. Then you have to strip it off and start over.I use Cetol on most of my brightwork. I hate the stuff because it yellows and peals. I’ve so far found nothing better however.
Rich
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Dan,
Wich engine do you have?Instructions for the W60 say that the engine pumps too much water for the exhaust and some should be diverted to a direct discharge. Pearson elected to not do this however. If you have this setup, there would be a T in the hose from your engine to the exhaust injection elbow.
Rich
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Rodd,
I assume all was well last fall. You might have a clogged intake through-hull. Critters can grow in there. Pull the hose from the V-drive to the engine off. Water should run into your bilge. If not, open the strainer and check for flow there. If you have water flow from the V-drive, you may have a bad impeller, a rusted injection elbow, or a broken pump vane caught in a hose.Rich
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I’ve been using a garbage bag and tape wrapped around the mast as a boot for years. When covered with a canvas cover it looks fine. I can’t find the canvas boot cover anymore though. West doesn’t carry them anymore nor does Defender. Does anyone know where these can be found?
BTW: I’ve entered my boat in the Cruise for Life fundraiser this summer in Provincetown Mass. Its for the Jimmy Fund/Dana Farber cancer fund. If anyone else is interested in joining us there, please see the link below or contact me for more information.
http://www.cruiseforlife.org/If anyone would like to just make a donation please see the link below:
http://www.cruiseforlife.org/boat/blacksheepRich
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Congratulations Eric.
Please look me up if you are in the Marblehead/Salem area.Rich
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practical sailor guide to sailing gear
Interesting read. Scroll down to about page 50 for sailmaker info. This link has about half the book posted online. If you want the rest of the book you must buy it.
Rich
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Quent
They closed their China loft. No idea why; maybe quality issues. I think
they still have a loft in the Carrebean somewhere, maybe Jamaca.Rich
Quote:
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Yes, thanks. I plan on having a sales rep come down and measure the boat. I’ll let folks know what the final cost comes to once I have a firm quote. I’m looking forward to a new mainsail track and dutchman. Raising and lowering the main is a PIA right now.
http://www.doylesails.com/cruising/tidestrack/index.html
Boats looking good! She goes in next week. I have a bunch of projects I finished. Pix to follow…
Rich
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The bases have four 1/4″ screws. When they get tightened, you don’t want them to crush the deck. I don’t think that spray foam would be a good filler in this application. You really don’t need any strength in the deck filler used to repair a rotted core. There are probably other materials that could be used to fill the deck, but I have a pair of West jugs on my bench. I see no reason to experiment with alternatives. I stuffed some fiberglass mat in there. A chunk of unreinforced epoxy is brittle and can crack if flexed. In theory, the deck wouldn’t flex but you can’t be too careful. Around the stanchions you want something that won’t shrink when compressed.
Rich
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I’ll have to say that filling the void after the fact is very difficult. It can be difficult to reliably tape-off the underside holes for a number of reasons. The holes can be obstructed by the cable race, wiring, or cloth covering and reaching the holes can be difficult. If the holes aren’t well sealed, any epoxy used to fill the holes can run out the bottom. Its best to plan on this and lay in a tarp underneath just in case. Since the deck is canted, epoxy tends to run down to the lower side of the deck. This can evacuate the uphill part of the core. Even if no epoxy runs out of the core, air trapped during the pour will find its way uphill. Plan on a second pour to refill the two uphill holes.
I added some thickener in the epoxy when mixing. You can’t add too much because you want the stuff to run into the deck void. I also inserted some cut fiberglass to add strength. I covered the top deck holes with tape after pouring. Even with this precaution some epoxy oozed out and messed the deck. I subsequently ran a belt-sander over the area to smooth out the repair and clear up any runs. Since my deck is painted with textured paint anyway this wasn’t a big deal. If you want to prevent drips from staining your deck, I advise covering the adjoining area with tape before pouring anything.
One fastener failed during removal from crevice corrosion. All were suspect and were replaced. I used fender washers under the deck. A large aluminum plate would have been preferred, but it was hard to reach the underside of the deck. I would have found installing such a plate to be difficult. The fender washers will spread the load.
Pearson originally used rubber gaskets under the stanchions during installation. I cut new gaskets using a 1/4″ hole punch for the fastener holes. I also laid in a bit of polysulfied caulk under the gasket to insure a watertight seal. The theory is that when torque the nuts, it squeezes the gasket which seals around the fastener holes. Since the fasteners are full length threaded, water would find its way down the threads unless caulk is used.
During winter layup, water will collect at the low edge of the deck and freeze. This will happen even if the boat is covered. Over a period of weeks, a thick layer of ice can accumulate around the stanchion bases. If any water leaks under the bases, it will eventually pull the stanchions out of the deck. It can also build-up around the deck drains and clog them. This can crack the deck and through-hull fittings. I keep an eye on this over the winter, occasionally laying in some rock-salt to eliminate the ice.
I block the forward (solid) part of the keel and the rudder skeg. You can tap the keel to hear where she is hollow.
Seven stanchions keep her level.Still thinking about filling the sump up to where I can at least reach the bottom. So far, I’ve found no material that I like.
Rich
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I have a sloop. The rig is identical to the tall ketch but lacks a mizzen. I race the boat in our club race each Thursday evening. I usually finish in the middle of the fleet. My handicap puts us in the slowest fleet. We race against boats with typical sizes of 26 to 28 feet. Our courses are always directly up/down with the two marks about a mile apart. Wind is typically light as the seabreeze fails close to sunset. This is a challenge since these are the worst points of sail for a boat like the 424. Tacking is a problem for us since the boat loses momentum and takes forever to regain speed. I have to plan to sail the rhumb-line. Knowing when to tack over is critical. The other boats on the course have no idea what its like to sail a big boat like the 424. They expect us to be able to tack over within our boatlength. This makes it a bit dangerous to be on port tack. We prefer to sail the right side of the course. This brings us to the mark on starboard tack.
I get about 35deg apparent in a moderate to light air (5..10kts true), 90deg true including leeway. When tacking, if I look over my shoulder at a mark, I can make it when the mark is directly abeam. This is my best VMG to windward. This is about what most cruising boats can do but nowhere near what something like a J24 can do. In some races they combine the J24 fleet with us. Unless it blows like stink, we’re dogmeat against a J24. I have a smattering of trophies, including first place in G-fleet at the club regatta last year; a silver plate that hangs on the wall in our hallway. Most trophies are glasses silk-screened with our club burgee. These are the most expensive glasses on the planet.
For the first few years I owned her, I couldn’t get the boat to point worth a damn. Maybe 110 degrees true was the best she could do. Sure, I could get the bow pointed over at 90 degrees but she’d crab, making the COG only about 110. Even replacing the sails with fancy mylar composite sails didn’t do much. A folding prop helped a lot, adding over 1/2 kt in light air and reducing the crab angle. The thing that helped most is a hydrolic backstay tensioner I added a few years ago. Now she points. A smooth and clean bottom finish helps too. I haul her about once a month to keep the bottom clean. All these things get me a couple of glasses each year.
If the wind picks up to the point where the boat heels, I can point a bit higher than 90. I almost never reef when coastal cruising. Roller furling is a waste of effort. The sail loses shape. I’ve tried luff-pads. They help, but they don’t really work. I’m more likely to ease out the full-batten main to depower the boat. If that doesn’t do enough I roll-up the headsail and sail under just main. If upwind, I power into the wind. I don’t even bother rigging the mainsail reef lines anymore. If I took her offshore again I would certainly rig them, but with a fullbatten main I can just ease the main out. This moves the center of effort forward and helps balance the boat better than reefing the headsail.
I could use new sails, on the list for next season. I think I could tack perhaps 3 degrees better with new sails, and maybe win another couple of glasses.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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