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I understand that in some states, a dink need not be registered if she is
marked T/T. This may be a myth since I’ve never found a state that complies
with this practice. IMHO, a dinghy name should complement the mothership.
This can be a challenge if you have a name that doesn’t lend itself to this
kind of thing.Rich
BlackSheep – #47
LambChop – dinghyQuote:
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I replaced mine with a 4-hole pad eye.
Btw: Defender is having their Spingarn sale. Last day is today.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C311635%7C312081&id=11703
Rich
On Apr 2, 2011, at 10:10 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
What did you use instead?
On 4/2/2011 9:02 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
They are junk. I replaced mine yeas ago.
RichSent from my iPad
On Apr 1, 2011, at 11:17 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
There are some padeyes on my booms each with four mounting holes, all in-line. One is aobut 5″ long and one is about 3″ long. Picture with ruler here: http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/BoomPadeyes.JPG
Does anyone know who makes ones like these? I need to replace one of each.
Thanks,
Pete
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The heat exchanger is made by sen-dure. They can build you a new one on an exchange basis.
Rich
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On Apr 1, 2011, at 6:25 PM, wrote:
Hey, Bob, thanks for getting back. The news came via phone today from my
Deltaville mechanic–I am 4 hours away at my Smith Mt Lake home, so I have
not seen it yet. I had been leaking coolant through both freeze plugs in the
H2O reservoir which he had fixed and pressure tested. But in reassembling
and testing he discover that my fresh mix is seeping into my raw H2O loop.
This solved the mystery of why I had been losing fluid in the reservoir.
I am going to the boat tomorrow and will be talking to him. Knowing Henry,
If it were at all possible to repair, he would. As for me doing it? HA!
Thanks again for the comeback, and if I don’t hang on to this exchanger,
it’s yours.
BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 4/1/2011 5:06:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:Hi Bill,
Just out of curiosity, why do you need a new one? I ask because I’ve often
wondered if they are repairable if it’s a leaking tube (if only one, you
can
safely plug it. Actually, I’ve seen engines run quite happily with almost
50% plugged) If more than that, can it be re-tubed? It would be a long
and
tedious process involving a drill, solder (or brazing), bronze tubing, and
a
lot of patience. On the W58, I think repair would be possible.I don’t know where you’d get one, frankly, except Westerbeke, but I’d sure
like a whack at fixing it if you’re going to throw the old one away.Bob
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 4:31 PM, wrote:
Well, at least it happened here instead of down in the Bahamas
somewhere… I need a new heat exchanger for my W-60. One is available
thru Westerbeke
for $900, but if any one has any ideas, a “spare”, or a parts link,please
let me know, thanks,
BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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They are junk. I replaced mine yeas ago.
RichSent from my iPad
On Apr 1, 2011, at 11:17 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
There are some padeyes on my booms each with four mounting holes, all in-line. One is aobut 5″ long and one is about 3″ long. Picture with ruler here: http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/BoomPadeyes.JPG
Does anyone know who makes ones like these? I need to replace one of each.
Thanks,
Pete
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I think it’s the shunt resistor for the ammeter. It should be between the alternator and starter. The batteries should connect to the starter, not alternator.
Rich
On Mar 30, 2011, at 10:26 PM, “Seawater” wrote:
My W60 has a large resistor looking thing between the batteries and the starter. It is on the port side near the transmission. Does anyone know what this thing is for?
My engine has never cranked over very well, always grinding over slowly even with new batteries with a fresh charge. I have heavy 00 or 000 welding cable to the engine and a good ground.
Today I bypassed it, and the engine cranks like it ought to, and starts much quicker than it did.
Any help would be appreciated.
Walter
SV Madness
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The 424 is properly ballasted with what she has in her keel and needs no additional weight. I contacted a guy by phone in Arizona a few years back who makes a type of concrete that uses plastic pellets as an aggregate rather than stone. The product floats and can be used to make floating docks. He said that if the fiberglass is cleaned well and coated with lime before pouring in his product it would adhere. I assume the same would work with any concrete product. After a brief discussion, he was unwilling to make a small sale.
As far as considering a deep sump a safety factor, I’d have to disagree. If you can’t pump water out at least as fast as it comes in it doesn’t matter how deep the sump is. The sump doesn’t even hold all that much water. It does hold a bunch of stuff that can clog your pump however and there’s no way to get in there to clean it properly.
Rich
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Yes, these are the markers I was asking about. Has anyone used them and do they last?
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RichOn Mar 23, 2011, at 2:54 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Aah, found it at defender, not under the same name
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|32295|536112&id=535733On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 2:44 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Joe,
Are you talking about Rainbow Markers that go inside the chain link? I
haven’t found a source in the US.On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Rich,I’ve tried paint but it wears off too soon. I’ve tried plastic tie wraps
but
they get brittle and snap off. Now I have a soft plastic label with the
actual
numbers of feet which is very handy because you can actually read the
depth and
not have to count how many ties have passed and they are different colors
for
each depth too in case you miss the number when the chain goes by quickly.
I
like these a lot and recommend them. I think I bought them at a Budget
Marine,
but I’m sure you can find them elsewhere.Joe,
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I never liked the emergency tiller setup on the 424. One would think that
if the steering failed, it would happen in rough conditions. Having to open
up a 4″ hole in the cockpit sole to attach the steering tiller doesn’t sound
like a good idea. It seems that the rudder should have some kind of rubber
gasket that seals the hole when in use.I don’t know if you folks have tried to open the tiller plate but it’s a
bear. It’s a good itea to grease the threads every now and then.Rich
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This is a matter of experience. I adjust the rig so that the uppers are
tighter than the lowers and the mast is straight and plum as measured using
the main halyard pulled out to each rail. I then sail the boat. In a
normal breeze about 15kts, the lee shrouds should be loose but not flopping
in the beeze. Resist the temptation of tightening the loose lowers when
under way.With a mizzen, you’ll never be able to get sufficient backstay tension to
bend the main mast. Just get it straight. If you have a sloop or cutter
with a backstay tensioner you can bend the mast and get the boat to point up
about 10 more degrees.Rich
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I wouldn’t suggest a wheel autopilot. My 424 weighs in at 24000 lbs without
beer onboard. If your budget will handle only $1500, consider a used
autopilot.
RichQuote:
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The stuff I use comes in a quart can. One can will more than cover your
whole dinghy if you wish.
RichQuote:
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West Marine sells what they call inflatable boat paint. It comes in gray.
I painted a small area large enough for the registration numbers and then
put lettering over that. The main reason that I painted the area is because
the state registration sticker won’t stick to hypalon.Rich
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Pete
Soda-blasting won’t poison the chickens nor anything else. They tent the boat and cart away everything. It will put a dent in your wallet however. I paid $2k.I applied epoxy barrier-coat and still had to sand. Much easier to sand the bottom once the paint was removed. If you’re skipping the barrier coat you can skip sanding. It would be a shame to go to all that effort to remove the bottom paint and not put on a barrier coat.
I estimate 400 sqft based on coverage.
Rich
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Joe
The manual says that it consumes 4.5 amps, but I think that’s maximum. I had it connected to a power supply with a built-in meter last night but I didn’t think to read the meter.Under normal conditions, the antenna would be slewing only part-time. I think however that most of the power consumption would be in the converter box. Although its a custom box, I’m pretty sure its a modified version of their standard box. Little or no thought was probably given to power conservation.
The TV’s a power hog too. My guess is that the TV with satellite box will probably consume about 10A. I’ve added a 2kw Honda generator.
Rich
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Pat
The post is not structural.Interesting to see what folks have done with the original nav station. As
built, the nav station was less than confortable. I banged my head against
the breakers one too many time. I made the table deeper and move the post
inboard. With a wider table-top, the nav-station is more comfortable.I met the orignal owner of Sea-duty about 20 years ago on a rendezvous. As
I recall, he was a retired navy captain.Regards
RichQuote:
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