Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
its just an automotive temperature switch. You can bring it to any auto-parts store and get a match.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The original tank manufacturer is still in business and can build you a replacement. Lots of info available from the mailing list. Here’s my notes.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/FuelTank.html
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I assume that you plan to put them in the original space. Why split tanks?
You have to play games with the return line to make sure you don’t return
fuel to the wrong tank unless you add a day-tank. This is a small third
tank that feeds the engine and gets the return line.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Holy smokes, $400 for one 6v battery!
They look like the forklift batteries I had a few years back. They were heavy and gave the boat a list. I since moved the batteries to the bilge where the weight will do some good. Not enough height for a tall battery though.Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Update:
I repaired the mast collar as discussed earlier. After removing the aluminum collar, I found that the seal had indeed failed. I don’t think water had gotten through the screw-holes. It had been bedded with silicon caulking. I routed out the rotted area and found that it didn’t extend very deep. The router seems to have removed all rot. The underside of the collar was corroded where water had gotten in. I wire-brushed the aluminum casting and painted it this time. I’m not sure why this problem re-occurs. My theory is that the mast works and eventually breaks the seal, but it could be corrosion that works its way under the casting. Maybe painting the thing will make it last longer. I re-bedded with silicon caulk and I’m good for another few years. I don’t remember when I last fixed this, maybe 4 years ago. I’m tired of fixing the same things over and over. At least this isn’t a big job, maybe 3 hours total.I’m in the process of re-plumbing the head, replacing the electra-san, adding a holding tank, and replacing all the hoses. Now that’s a big job, yuck!
Pulled one of the battery banks last night. One bank was dead, wouldn’t hold a charge. The bank was a pair of big AGM batteries in parallel. One was split open at one end. I’ve seen this before in AGM batteries. Not sure I like them anymore. The other bank is a pair of Sam’s Club golf-cart batteries and they are still fine after 5 years.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
They are about 3x the price of a cheap zinc but you only need one. The Godfrey does it’s job. The brass collar holds the zinc to the shaft even when it’s getting thin. No thunk against the hull when it spins off folowed by cursing. How many have you lost? I’ve never lost one.Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here’s what I use.
http://www.godfreyboatzincs.com/
With a brass collar, they don’t break and spin-off. They cost a little more
but last much longer. I use one for the summer season. One might last a
full year, I don’t honestly know.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
Yes, I have a steel rod also. The mast works when the boat sails. Its just
the way things work. On port tack, the boat heels to starboard and
vice-verse. This places alternate loads on the wedges as does adjusting the
backstay tension when pointing vs running. Over a period of a couple or
three years, the sealant under the collar will need to be renewed.The chain-plates work also and need to be recaulked at about the same rate.
If you don’t keep up with leaks around the chainplates, water will not only
get into the deck but also under the chainplate. Stainless doesn’t like to
stay wet under a seal. It causes crevice corrosion.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I think I said it. My assumption was that there are davits attached to the push-pit and the weight is supported by the davits and push-pit. Maybe I misunderstood the question.
If you’re just stowing the engine on the push-pit with no davits there is probably no practical limit. I went to Bermuda a few years back with my 30hp engine on the push-pit.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pat
My mast is set through the deck with wooden shims. The shims compress against the mast collar. Its always been that way. I assume everyone else has the same setup. The mast will probably sit straight with no shrouds holding it, though I’ve never tried it.Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pat
The problem I have is that the caulking seal around the collar breaks, allowing water to leak under the collar. I don’t know yet if it gets into the screw holes and won’t find out until I dig out the rotted wood to see how deep it goes. I’ve typically used polysulfide and I’ve tried silicone sealant. I might try something different this time. I used Dicor RV lap sealant on my chainplates a few years back and it seems to be holding up very well. I use this on our camper to seal the roof seams. Dicor remains flexible. I have a few tubes left over from the last time I renewed the seams on our camper deck. Its not marine and I feel guilty not paying the marine premium when I use it. Butyl rubber tape might also be a good choice as long as the screws are set with caulk.http://www.dicor.com/Product.aspx?ID=12
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have a 9.9 Suzuki on a boat at our lake house. Very nice little engine.
Starts with one pull and pushes our aluminum skiff just fine. Any more info
on what I’d have to adjust?The engine on my dinghy is 30hp. I don’t think the boat could handle more
so no need to screw with that. Planes fine with 6 people and can pull a
water-skier, though not at the same time.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’ve heard that some folks have purchased the 9.9 engine and converted it to a 15hp engine by changing some jets in the carburetor, thereby saving a few bucks when purchasing. If you already have a 9.9, it might be worth looking into.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
All the engine weight is normally on one davit. That puts about 150 lbs on one unless you take the engine off, quite a pain in the ass. The pushpit won’t handle that much weight. I tow my dinghy backwards with the transom on the davits and the bow in the water. Our dinghy is bigger than what you are considering but the technique still works for smaller boats. Someone makes a setup designed for towing this way.
Rich
On Apr 16, 2011, at 8:09 PM, “Herbc” wrote:
the 10+ ft inflatable with inflat floor will not get replaced right away, will try to watch for a craigslist RIB. But the engine situation has to be addressed and am agonizing over the heavy 9.9hp 4strokes. at around 90lbs.
is that going to be to heavy for the pushpit and can anyone comment on planing with smaller units.
To me the ship to shore transport is one of the most important aspects of cruising, so its time to make it good.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum