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RichCarterParticipantPat
$40 sent via paypal. Let me know if it doesn’t show up.
Rich_____
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RichCarterParticipantAll good advice.
Rich
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RichCarterParticipantPatrick
Proper alignment of the V-drive is essential for vibration free operation. Alignment to the engine is pretty forgiving, but the shaft must be true to the coupling. If you didn’t muck with the V-drive when replacing the shaft there is every reason to assume that it is still aligned. In theory you should be able to reinstall the new shaft and be good to go with no alignment. You’ll know if you are out of alignment because the boat will vibrate at cruising speed. It is normal for some vibration in the cabin sole next to the engine, but you should not hear cabinet doors rattle nor should you feel it in the seat of your pants when sitting in the cockpit.A common problem that may be encountered with alignment is a bent flange on the coupling. This can happen if the mechanic gets aggressive with tools when separating the coupling from the shaft or removing the shaft from the coupling. As long as you are pulling the shaft I suggest having the coupling checked. If the coupling is bent, the flange on the V-drive may also be bent. In this case you are basically screwed. It is possible to shim a bent flange, but its non-trivial. Instructions for checking alignment are published in the Walter V-drive manual.
Regards
Rich
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RichCarterParticipantNo access to photos.
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description Access to the specified resource () has been forbidden.
Apache Tomcat/5.5.27
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RichCarterParticipantLee
I would advise against scuppers that go through the rail. My previous boat had that setup. There was always a dark stain down the topsides where water drained. The windward side didn’t drain well when under sail either.Rich
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RichCarterParticipantMy 1978 424 has few cracks in the teak, perhaps because I’ve kept it oiled over the years. Screw heads have started showing through in various places. I’ve pulled and reset as these become visible. Resetting a few screws is pretty easy. Pearson didn’t through-bolt the deck to the hull, so I’ve always assumed that the cap-rail screws provides some measure of support. As I recall, the hull-to-deck joint is 3M5200. That stuff is supposed to last 30 years…
I’ve considered using something like trex decking but its never come up high on the list. I found a link a few years for a boat that did his entire deck with planking made from trex. I exchanged a little email with him and he’s still very happy with the result. He had an older Pearson model, a 32 if I remember. He had a serious deck rot problem because the balsa was not run end-grain when they laid-up the deck. Water penetrated the entire deck and he had to do extensive repairs. He drilled a few hundred holes in the deck and filled with epoxy. He laid down the decking to cover the repair. I’m laying down a teak deck just in the cockpit so I was interested in his experience. I ended up using real teak however. The cost of materials for such a small area isn’t a factor.
Rich
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RichCarterParticipantInteresting what the owner did to the boat. Removed the toe-rails, relocated stanchions to rail-cap, added a scoop transom.
Rich
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RichCarterParticipantLinus
I’ve been using marine sanitation hose wrapped in saran-wrap with a final layer of duck tape with good success. There are articles available about this technique.Haven’t tried the spa-hose and would be interested to hear what you find.
Rich
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RichCarterParticipantIn the case of the attached photo, I looks as if the previous installer drilled the set-screw holes before inserting the screws. He would have used a bit smaller than the screw hole. I don’t see why he would have done this. You’d risk damaging the threads for no purpose.
Rich
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RichCarterParticipantWhat good is a one-sidded burgee? I’ll spring for the larger two-sided flag. Please let me know what I need to do.
Regards
Rich – BlackSheep #47
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RichCarterParticipantOh, thanks Bob. I would have never thought to get the right color LEDs. My masthead lamp has a single bulb with a bicolor lense. I read that you have a bicolor bulb, cool!
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RichCarterParticipantI’ll be retrofiting to LED within the next year or so. Masthead, anchor, and some interior lamps plus possibly the spreader lights. I’m budgeting about $500.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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RichCarterParticipantTo be clear, I’ll take one large flag.
Rich – BlackSheep #47
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RichCarterParticipantWhich one is closest to the decal on the traveller bridge? “B” I think, but I don’t have a photo handy.
Rich
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RichCarterParticipantPat,
If they can put the 424 on it, please count me in.Rich – BlackSheep #47
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