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I’m sure you’ll get a lot of opinions on this. My offshore experience is limited to one trip from cape cod to Bermuda. I got the snot beat out of me on the way over. I’ve attached a copy of my notes from the trip. There’s lots of information available on the net about generic equipment for offshore. Here are some suggestions about things that I think would make the 424 more seaworthy:
Reinforce the flat forward sections of the hull up in the v-berth. This is a pretty involved discussion and deserves its own topic. If you can’t find info on it in the archives let us know.
Put in a better cockpit drain. I ran a 4″ piece of exhaust hose out the back of the cockpit through the transom using two plastic exhaust hose fittings. The hose is just below the manual bilge-pump.
Squirt some foam insulation under the toe-rail up in the anchor locker to keep water from getting from there into the v-berth.
Put locking pulls of some kind on all the storage lockers, bilge access hatches and engine box.
If you have a sloop or ketch, reinforce the hull where the backstay chainplate attaches.
Regards
Rich – BlackSheep #47
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Eric
Are you asking about stuff like life-raft and eprb or are you asking about modifications to the 424 for offshore voyaging?Rich
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maritime&shippingT
LAZARETTE
A storage space in a boat’s stern area.Nautical Know How Glossary of Boating Terms
LAZARETTE
A storage space in a boat’s stern area.Nautical Nomenclature
Lazarette
spaces below the deck that are designed for storageRich
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Linus
According to coast-guard requirements, it should be carved in a beam
somewhere that can’t be mucked with. My boat has vinyl letters stuck to the
forward bulkhead in the v-berth. This is not consistent with what I’ve read
for permanent marking. I suggest carving it into the crossbeam under the
mizzen or a similar place.The whole theory behind carving the documentation numbers into a beam is out
of date. Federal laws now require that the builders serial number be
permanently affixed to the transom. This more or less mitigates the use of
a documentation stamp. You want to be legal however.Regards
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Norris
Alignment on the hard is a waste of money, but you probably already know
that. Sounds like your yard took you for a ride.Rich
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Bob
There is no cheap and easy way out of this. There is no logic in sending a
v-drive in for an expensive rebuild if the cases are shot. You can’t get
new cases. Cleaning the cooling jacket sufficiently to apply a marine-tex
patch is a terrible job and there are no guarantees. I had the same
decision to make and I tried the patch method and I rebuilt the thing
myself. I ended up replacing it however about 4 years later because the
RV-20 was not suitable for my new engine. The gear reduction was wrong. I
never trusted the patch anyway.If you can budget the cost of a new V-drive, that’s the way to go. You’ll
get at least 20 years of worry-free operation. Its not a drop-in and its
expensive. If you follow my notes and are reasonably handy, the replacement
is a stright-forward but tedious job. If you hire it out to have a yard do
it, I’d expect a bill for something like 20 to 30 hours of labor (times
their billing rate). Bolting steel angle iron to the existing V-drive pan
with nuts welded to the bottom worked very well for me.Rich
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Sorry,
I meant “the lid to the cooling jacket should be replaced”
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Isn’t a CV joint a pair of coupled universals?
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Rodd
The gearbox case is one piece but the cooling jacket should be replaced too,
so there would be two castings plus gaskets. They were once for sale for a
lot less than $700. I haven’t seen a set for many years now. The generic
RV-20 was quite popular for many years, but the 2:1 gear reduction probably
not common. If you come across an RV-20 from a freshwater boat that looks
clean for short money, you might want to grab it. Even if the gear
reduction is wrong, the gearbox case may save your butt in the future.I now have an RV-26. If I hear that they stop production on them, I’ll grab
some replacement parts before they go extinct too.Given the light load these things are under there is no reason that the
V-drive shouldn’t outlive us. I wish I could come up with a reasonable way
to freshwater cool the thing. I wanted to run the engine cooling system
through the v-drive just before or after the transmission cooler. Both
Walter and Yanmar say no. Yanmar probably believes it will lower the
coolant flow through the engine cooling system and Walter probably wants a
lower temperature coolant. The RV-26 has an oil pump. I’ve been thinking
of using a heat exchanger on the oil system. In my application, coolant is
definitely needed. The RV-26 runs warm to the touch. According to the
Walter specs, it is run within its rated capacity, but not by all that much.
I don’t have the manual handy but I recall that it is rated for something
like 100hp diesel. Who knows if I’ll still own the boat 20 years from now.
I’ll probably leave things as is and keep maintaining it.Rich
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I don’t think there should be any noticeable play in the gearbox. It sounds
as if you may have thrown the roller bearings from one of the CV joints.
You probably have them deposited in the bottom pan of your gearbox but they
may work their way into the gears and from there pieces would work into the
rest of the bearings. I would suggest removing the bottom pan and cleaning
everything out as best you can. I may have used bearings kicking around
somewhere if you need them. I rebuilt my old V-drive many years ago and
replaced everything. In retrospect, I think there was nothing wrong with
the old bearings. I probably saved them in a box somewhere. They won’t fit
my RV-26.Rich
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The CV joints inside the V-drive are common automotive bearings with the
seals removed. You can remove the V-drive from your boat and replace these
bearings. As I recall, you must pull the output shaft to get at the input
shaft case bolts. A press is required for this and special tools are needed
for the nut at the end of the output shaft. One of the members has these
wrenches. I forgot who I gave them to. If you know a decent automotive
mechanic who has cheap rates, I recommend that you give it to him to replace
the bearings. Its just a wrench-job. No special skills required.Given the age of these units, I would advise against dropping a boat unit
into a rebuild. A replacement is expensive and there is no drop-in
available.Regards
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Eric
I had mine replaced a few years ago by Northeast Rigging. They are near Boston, but for a large job I’m sure they would drive to ME. They do nice work and they are cost competitive. Price depends on what you have done. I replaced my roller furling and the standing wire. I went to Norseman fittings and went up a size on most stays.Regards
Rich – BlackSheep
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Barbara
My 424 was originally fitted with a tank in the back of the main cabin hanging locker next to the midship companionway. I think it was in the back of that locker. It was later refit with an Electra-san under the cabin sole just forward of the bilge sump by the first owner. I relocated the electra-san to the head cabinet just next to the head pump. My thought was that short hoses would be easier to maintain and less odor. I’m planning to put a Y valve in and a small tank where it was originally located.Regards
Rich
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Peter
I’d be interested in a clean copy of the original owner’s manual. I have my
original copy, but its over 30 years old and pretty dog-eared. I have no
idea what I’d do with the rest of the manuals however. I’d be happy to
chip-in to have the owner’s manual scanned.
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