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I started installing one a few years back and haven’t finished yet. I’ve read this with interest. I’ve already cut a hole in the deck for a chainplate and I’ve cut the plate to fit. I stopped there because my rigger advised me that the forward bulkhead isn’t strong enough to take the load. He recommended reinforcing it. After reading this thread I’ve decided to see if I can move it forward and attach to the existing stemhead fitting. I’m not sure there is room to clear the headsail furler, but it looks like it might. I’m also not convinced that the existing stemhead fitting will take the load. I’ll have to climb into the anchor locker and see what’s under there.
I plan to cut the solent stay short. When not in use, it will attach to a pad eye on the toe-rail just forward of the port lowers. When in use I plan to attach a short piece of appropriate length. This will prevent sail slides from sliding all the way down to the stemhead, but they will be low enough to reach. It raises the headsail a few feet, but in bad weather this is the custom anyway.
The nice thing about using a hanked on storm sail is that its bullet-proof. I’d rather deal with a hanked on sail in bad weather than wrestle with a sail in a head foil. When you drop a hanked on sail, it remains attached to the headstay.
Rich
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Lee
Sorry for the confusion. If you have a couple of extras, I’d be happy to take them. I’ll use them someday if I don’t misplace them. If you don’t have them handy, have a beverage on me and we’ll call it square.Regards
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From my notes:
“The balsa adjacent to the rot was also moist. I left the deck core exposed in the hope that any remaining moisture
would dry. There isn’t any way that I can think of to suck the water out. To make sure that rot doesn’t continue after
the repair, I sprayed a mixture of boric acid and potable anti-freeze into the exposed deck. Boric acid is a natural
anti-fungal found in any hardware store. After letting the solution sit for about a week, I swabbed out the exposed
deck with denatured alcohol and dried it as best I could with a heat-gun.”I was cautious with the heat gun. As I recall, I kept a fire-extinguisher handy. I have no way to be sure the process cleaned the surface well enough for the epoxy to stick to the surface but its the best I could come up with. I don’t know if the boric acid will dissolve in alcohol. It didn’t dissolve very well in the anti-freeze. If I were to do it again I might go with standard automotive anti-freeze and skip the boric acid.
Rich.
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Tor
I feel the same way about leaving the repaired area wet with anti-freeze. Once you soak the area with the stuff, there’s no way to get the surface completely dry. Its what seems to be recommended however. Here’s an interesting article from wooden boat.http://www.woodenboat.net.nz/Workshop/rotstopper/rotcure.html
I have a toe-nail that suffers from a fungus infection. There’s an oral medication that will cure it but may damage my liver. I’ve decided that my liver is more important than my toe-nail. After reading the article above, I’m considering treating it with anti-freeze.
Rich
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Tor
Yes, that sounds like an inexpensive way to make labels. You can reverse print them by changing the print properties. This will give you white letters on black.I’ve always found it odd that the breaker panel is used as a switch panel to turn things on and off. As an example, to turn on the running lights, someone must go below and hit the running lights breaker. This is pretty standard in the boating industry. To make things more difficult, there are a lot of DC breakers on the panel. If I send someone below to turn on something, they invariably stare at the panel in confusion looking for the switch. I’m considering putting switches for some of this stuff out in the cockpit.
Rich
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I looked at custom mattresses at a boat show a few years back. As I recall, they wanted around $3k for a mattress. I don’t think I could sleep after spending that much on a boat cusion.We put a mattress pad over our foam mattress on our bunk. The one we bought is like a plastic sheet. I think it might be used for bedwetters. If some dummy leaves the portlight open over the bunk when it rains it still gets wet. Otherwise it does a good job of keeping the mattress dry. Since we put a mattress pad over it anyway, I wonder why we bothered to have it upholstered. We might as well have left the foam as is.
Rich
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Rope-caulk, I wonder if that’s the same stuff I started using. We have a camper too. The camper uses a caulking compound around the roof and other fittings that needs to be renewed every few years. It never hardens. I can’t remember what its called, but its sold in the camper supply stores. I used the stuff on my chain plates a couple of years ago and so far its holding up better than anything else I’ve used. I’ll have to look at a tube and see if its the same stuff.
I’m not entirely sure what the anti-freeze is used for. I did a web-search for instructions on repairing deck rot and followed their recommendation. I think its just used to make a boric acid solution. You don’t want to inject more water into the deck. The stuff doesn’t dry however, so you can never really get the balsa dry again after dousing it with anti-freeze. The problem with water in your deck is that it freezes during the winter and expands. This can cause crazing on the deck. Replacing it with anti-freeze solves this problem, but then you can never get the core dry. Since the anti-freeze doesn’t expand during the winter and fungus won’t grow with it, maybe this is OK.
Rich
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One of the projects on my list is to make a wider aft bunk. I plan to add a lee-board to the inside edge of the existing bunk. The board will be hinged and drop down to allow an extra piece of mattress to drop in. I haven’t worked out the details yet. I plan to use a memory foam mattress. My thought is to buy a standard mattress and cut it to size. I can pick up a memory foam mattress from a local furniture outlet for $400. I have a similar but thicker mattress on our bed at home and love it. I don’t want to go to a much thicker mattress because it will raise the bunk; effectively lowering the book rack above it.
http://www.mybobs.com/Bob_O_Pedic_Lite.aspxI don’t know why I need a wider bunk. My wife pins me up against the hull. It doesn’t matter how wide the mattress is, she’ll still push me under the clothes lockers. I’m just giving her more room to work with.
Making the drop-down lee-board is the easy part. I haven’t figured out how to attach the mattress insert to the existing mattress. It would drop in on the top of the lee-board and would stow under the clothes lockers against the hull when not in use. If they don’t connect pretty well, they’ll slide apart. Velcro comes to mind, but when the cushions are separated the Velcro would stick to the blankets. Maybe a zipper would work better.
If I do replace the mattress, someone can have our existing mattress. Its not a stock cushion. I bought a foam mattress years ago and cut it to fit and had it upholstered. Don’t wait on me though. This isn’t high on my list.
Somebody else has a 424 with a wider aft bunk and walk-through transom. I saw the boat years ago. They had the work done custom for them.
Regards
Rich
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I can’t take credit for the find, but I saved the link.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/4-489.html?id=rvr6Qc98Regards
Rich
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Eric
I have a sloop, so I can’t comment with first-hand experience. I think you’d need a pretty solid set of davits to survive the dynamic load caused by an accidental gybe. What do you plan for davits?Rich
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Aaron
From what I’ve read and done, it is recommended to soak the damaged area with a mixture of boric acid and potable anti-freeze. Boric acid is used as a powered roach killer and can be found in many hardware stores. It kills the mold spores. I would suggest sealing the holes in the bottom deck skin and remove the top skin by cutting a hole with a circular saw under the stanchion base. You might get about a 1.5 inch hole. This will expose enough of the deck to get a digging tool in there and a vacuum cleaner to suck out the rot. Dig out as much rot as you can. You will likely need to dig out a few inches of rot. Then fill the exposed area with the mixture of boric acid and potable anti-freeze solution and let is sit overnight. Then vacuum it out with a wet-vac and let it dry. Then fill it with thickened epoxy. Cover the hole with duck tape and let it cure. Remove the duck tape and smooth out the surface. You’ll likely need to add a little more epoxy.Regards
Rich
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Holy smokes that’s a good price. You’ll have to adapt the bell housing, add
a heat exchanger, engine mounts, and water pump. Does the engine have
engine mount brackets? I can’t tell from the photos, but I think not. As I
recall the water pump goes on the PTO. You’ll need an exhaust riser and
water injection elbow. I think you have to relocate the fuel filter too.
This should be straightforward but would be simpler if TAD would sell the
brackets. They even have an optional bracket set for a Balmar alternator.
Even if you spend an additional $2k on accessories that’s a steal. Would
TAD be willing to sell these parts separately, maybe a marinization kit?
They guy isn’t the most friendly person I’ve ever done business with.
There’s one thing to be cautions of. Marine diesels use a governor to set
the throttle. When you move the throttle lever, what you are really doing
is changing the governor setting. I’m not sure that an industrial engine
uses the same fuel pump. A call to Cummins would resolve this. Also, is
there a warranty from Cummins?I’m tempted to buy one just to play with, but I just spent $3.5k on a new
dinghy today. My wife would kill me if a new engine showed up. Maybe I can
convince her that its for the dinghy.If I still had a W60, I’d buy one and stash it away for the future. I think
they are all gone though. It’s a close match for the engine pan. I think
it could be reworked. I found modifying the engine pan to be
straightforward. I think it took me one day. As I’ve said before, not
including labor, the engine is less than half the cost of a full repower.
This Cummins can use the same V-drive and running gear so you can refit the
engine without doing the rest right away. There’s all the other stuff too
like exhaust system, engine bed, and fuel tank. You could probably get away
with around $5k..$6k for a minimal repower including the engine, assuming
all you replace is the engine.Rich
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Very nice! I’ve always worried about downflooding but never came up with a simple solution. They would likely stow vertially in their respective lockers taking very little room. This is too easy however. Surely they should be made of teak or something expensive?
I keep a spare hatchboard stowed in one of the lockers. Its just a piece of pressure treated plywood cut to the shape of the main cabin hatch. I’ve heard too many stories of folks losing a hatchboard. This takes no room either. I use it when the boat is in winter storage to save the finish on the teak hatch boards. It stows vertically in one of the lockers during the rest of the season. Downflood boards could be made of the same material.
Regards
Rich
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Bob
Pearson used a soft rubber material to bed many of the deck fittings. This worked very well. I’ve lost many of mine over the years when fittings were removed for various reasons. I wish I could find the stuff. Its a softer rubber than the hard red sheets they sell in the hardware store. When used in combination with a good caulking it makes a long-lasting waterproof seal.If you drill holes in your deck for a rail, I suggest overdrilling and refilling with epoxy. You probably already have plans to do this.
Good luck with your project.
Regards
Rich
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Somehow lookout sent my mail message while I was still typing. To finish,
I’m sure there will be a lot of folks who counter and believe that moving the car makes all the difference in the world and wish their track were longer. When I was younger I used to run around the deck tweeking this and that, sure in the belief that whatever I was doing was making the boat go faster. I’ve still been known to tweek the winches and move the traveller, even adjust halliard and backstay tension if a boat looks to be gaining on me. Moving the car doesn’t seem to do enough to get me up on deck.Rich
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