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Dan
Many of us have replace the original traveler with a Garhauer traveler. They provide OEM equipment to Catalina. You purchase directly from them. To my knowledge, their parts are not available from distributors. I think they are an exceptional value. Below is my original quote from them. Expect prices to be a little higher. The original track is junk by today’s standards. You’ll notice quite a difference after you’ve replace it. Don’t forget to replace the three sheet blocks under the boom. There’s a turning block on the deck and a single stand-up block that I didn’t replace. Getting under the deck to get at the fasteners seemed to be too much work. You might also consider replacing the reefing blocks on the boom.There are some tricks to installing the system. I recommend a straight track; no curves. This requires some wood wedges on the top of the track bridge. You need access to the underside of the bridge to get at the fasteners. Some folks have cut a hole in the end of the bridge to get in there. Maybe Pat has an FAQ for it.
Regards
Rich
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Adam
Repair of the damaged core around the hatch isn’t that big a deal. If you do it right, the core will remain dry even if the hatch leaks again in the future. Someone makes a sliding deck hatch that could probably be used as a replacement ($$$). I looked on the internet to see if I could find them when I repaired mine. I was unable to locate one but someone else on the list may have a link.Regards
Rich
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Lee
Yes, that’s similar to what I did. You should find that the leak is gone. As an example, we got quite a lot of rain a week ago when a hurricane passed just to the east of cape cod. No leak from the main-cabin companionway hatch. Hope you find the same success.Regards
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Lee
I don’t follow your description. If you’ve repaired the rotted deck core, you must have removed the hatch frame. There’s no bungs nor stringers to deal with.Rich
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Lee
Here’s what I did.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/Regards
Rich
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Adam
You are right. The RV stores sell an exact replacement. Its a piece of plastic junk however. When you winterize, make sure you blow it out with air or it will crack.For about the same amount, you can buy a proper shower mixer valve. I got creative with mine and made it fit in the same holes by routing the pipes around. I have a photo on my home computer. I’ll send it out when I get a chance. My wife said it looked like a tuba.
Regards
Rich
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John
It works well. I had to make a gasket to close off one of the tank fittings. One tank pretty much fills up the floor of my dinghy. You’ll have to look at the tank measurements and compare your dinghy size to see if two will fit. I found that one tank/day was enough to more than keep up with my water usage. When cruising, I usually make at least one trip into town each day. I stop by one of the local marinas and borrow a little water. Nobody seems to mind.There’s a guy in my yacht club who makes up the water-caddy and sells them. His is a little neater because it rolls up and stows. I don’t know what he charges.
Rich
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Here’s what I use.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=9576
Rich
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Dan
Odd that you lack a sump. My boat came with a sump tank and diaphram pump. The pan is in the bilge forward of the v-drive. The pump was mounted on the top. Having shower water drain into the bilge is not recommended. I never liked the pan because it will fill with hair and other debris over time. I bypassed it and relocated the pump to space under the galley sink. A large strainer will protect the pump. I run the pump while showering. I added a Y valve so that I can use it as a bilge pump if I chose.regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Linus,
When it comes to a saltwater environment, there are really no reasonably priced water-resistant connectors. The best solution is to seal the connector after its been mated. I’ve had good success using the following method.Wrap the connector in self-sealing tape. This is the stuff that only sticks to itself. Radio Shack sells a black electrical tape that is made of this stuff. Then wrap the whole thing in regular electrical tape. Make this wrap longer than the first layer and make sure you’ve got it stuck tightly over the connector body. The reason for the first layer is to keep the tape adhesive from leaking into the connection. The second layer should keep water out. You can put a little dab of teflon lubricant on the connector pins before mating, but be sure to keep the lubricant off the connector body, otherwise the tape won’t stick.
The trailer connectors you’ve described work well when used as described above. The problem is that they need to be attached to the wire harness. The common way to do this is to use crimp connectors. If moisture gets inside there, you’ll have problems. You can try to wrap these in tape, but its much more difficult to make a watertight wrap on a single connector. Putting a dab of silicone caulk on the connector ends usually works, but its hard to even do that reliably. The best way is to avoid connections in the bilge.
Wire-to-wire crimp connectors come in two flavors. There is the common tube type. Each wire goes in one end. It takes two crimps to attach the wires. There is another type that has only one crimp. It looks like a thimble. You twist the wires together and insert them into the crimp connector. There is only one place to seal with caulk to keep the water out. I recommend the second type if you can find them.
Regards
Rich
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Bob
Thanks
I ordered 25 feet too.
Rich
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Bob
I found their website, but they have a zillion different types of gasket. If you can remeber what you bought it would save me a lot of trouble.Rich
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Bob
Where did you get the 3/8 gasket?
Rich
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Bob
There are several port types that Pearson used. I have four small aluminum frame portlights that open. I restored them about ten years ago using marguard, a scratch resistent polycarbonate. I bed the plastic with 3M4200. I’ll be doing it again soon, probably this winter. The gaskets need replacement and while the’re out I’ll restore them. Bowmar used silkaflex (sp?).Here’s what I did to restore them. I pulled them out and saved the fasteners. I ran a tap through the holes on the blind side to clean out the old goop. I ran them through a wire brush on a bench grinder and polished the frames. I pulled out the gaskets and glass. Once clean, I cut replacement plastic pieces and put them in place. I cut back the paper backing on the plastic to expose only the plastic section that is inside the frame. I used window gasket material to fill in the space because the plastic is thinner than the glass. I used caulk to bed the plastic in place too. I used white silicone sealant to bed the port frame into the coach roof.
One of the portlights started leaking last winter and the moisture damaged the teak coachroof. I cut the damaged section out with a multi-tool saw and rebedded the frame. The gasket needs replacement however so I’ll do the rest this winter. Photo of the repair attached.
Nothing lasts forever. Ten years isn’t bad.
Rich
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