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I assume that you’re looking for chackles for mainsail slides. I bought some for my main at West Marine a few weeks back. They ran about $4 ea.
Regards
Rich
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Tor,
Its on the list, a very long list…
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Something similar happens to me every now and then. I suck some seaweed or something into the engine intake and it cloggs. I back-flush it with the shower hose and blow the obstruction back out.
Regards
Rich
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Good idea. You can also put a Y valve on the shower drain sump pump. Plastimo makes a nice manual pump that has a self-stowing handle.
Regards
Rich
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Rodd
It will eventually dissolve. This happened to me with my old W60 and the end cap on that end of the exchanger doesn’t open. As a minimum, you’re supposed to loosen and then retighten the zincs every few months to keep them from seizing to the inside of the exchanger. Who does that however?If you can remove the end cap and get at the zinc, I suggest that you do so. Sending it out for a cleaning is good advice. You can try and clean out what you have with pipe cleaners and a toothbrush if you don’t want to pull it off.
Regards
Rich
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Patrick
The description you’ve provided for your antenna installation sounds wrong. Although its possible to tune your entire rig at specific frequencies, it won’t work for most frequencies and its dangerous. The proper way to adapt a standing rig to act as an antenna is to install insulators. Insulators are very expensive, but its the only safe way to go. For a sloop, these are installed at the top and bottom of the backstay so that the active section is out of reach. For a ketch, the antenna section is normally the wire that runs between the two sticks. In both cases, the wire section can be a little shorter or longer than ideal. Normally, a good antenna tuner can adapt it by changing the electrical length as seen by the transceiver. If the wire section is a bad multiple of the frequency you are attempting to use, the tuner may be unable to adjust. I have this problem with the 40meter band.One problem with using the rig for an antenna is that if you lose your rig, you lose your radio. Adding a second antenna is a good idea. This allows you to switch over in an emergency. It can also be used in the case when the band you want to use can’t be tuned up because of a resonance problem with the length of your rigging. There are a number of backup antenna solutions available. The most simple is a kite with a long wire. A more flexible solution is to add a small HF mobile antenna such as a hamstick. The hamstick is a whip antenna that can be mounted on your pushpit. You switch whips for each band. The whips are inexpensive. They come in two pieces so that when disassembled they stow easilly. You could also get an outbacker antenna. This is a fiberglass antenna that has individual taps for each band. They come in several models, one of which is setup for the marine bands. These are moderatly priced. There are also various screwdriver antennas that are easier to use because they can be adjusted to almost any band without tools, but they are expensive.
I recommend a set of hamsticks as backup for anyone going offshore. These are inexpensive and reliable. No antenna tuner is needed. You need a short section of feed line from your nav-staion out to the pushpit and a mounting bracket. An RF switch makes it convenient to switch from your antenna tuner to your backup antenna, but its not required. The switch goes where the feed line connects to the back of your radio. Three hamsticks are all that’s needed, 80m, 40m, and 20m. They only cost about $25 each. You can get a whole set if you want. These of course work on the amateur bands. If I were in an emergency, I think I’d call for help on the amateur bands first. There is a better chance of making a contact.
Here’s a book that’s free and discusses mobile and marine installations. Hope this helps
http://www.sgcworld.com/Publications/Books/hfguidebook.pdf
Regards,
Rich KE1EV
BlackSheep
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Good advice regarding the damper plate and heat exchanger. My damper plate was fine, but I sent my heat exchanger out to a local shop when I rebuilt my transmission five years ago. They charged me $140 to clean and repair the unit.
As I recall, I paid about $600 to rebuild my velvet drive. Shipping to/from New England would be expensive, but you might call them to compare.
http://www.idealtransmissions.com/
The shaft brake looks very similar to a disk brake on a car. It bolts on just behind the transmission. I’ve long since removed mine, no need for it since I have a folding prop.
Regards
Rich
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see
http://www.baconsails.com/database/boatspec.php
Rich
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James
Replacement transmissions can be very costly, but these units are straightforward to rebuild. A good transmission shop should be able to rebuild your BW in a few days. Removal should be straightforward. You will likely need to remove the jack-shaft to the V-drive first. The bottom two fasteners on the transmission should be studs, not bolts. Leave the studs on the bell housing to assist in removal and replacement. The transmission is heavy, but a small block-and-tackle rigged up to a beam across the companionway should help. The unit will slide forward and out. I seem to remember fastening a couple of lifting rings on the housing in otherwise unused bolt holes to help attach a sling.Even if there’s nothing wrong with it, I suggest rebuiling it if it hasn’t been rebuilt in the last decade or so. A typical rebuild should run about $600, more so if the unit is badly damaged.
Regards
Rich
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Cindy
Good to hear that your repower is coming along well. Once you’ve had a chance to sea-trial your installation, please send out a “lessons learned” message for our knowledge base.FWIW, at one time I relocated my key and kill switchs to the instrument panel. The only problem was that you can’t reach the key in an emergency from the helm. There are rare occasions when this has proved important. I suggest that you reconsider your key placement.
Regards
Rich
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Howard
The short answer is, yes, the interior woodwork can be restored. This is a non-trivial project however. Depending on how damaged your woodwork and how the adjacent wood trim has aged, it can be a challenge to restore the interior. Earlier production boats have a dark finish on the woodwork. At sometime in the production line they changed process to a fairly transparent finish that yellows with age. Matching the woodwork finish is a challenge.Repairing screw holes and damaged sections is difficult. Much of the art involved is simply patience and trial-and-error. Screw holes can be repaired by drilling and plugging the holes. Very small bungs can be purchased for this purpose.
I’ve had great success applying minwax rubbed effect finish. This stuff comes in a metal jug and gets rubbed in with a cloth. It does a great job restoring woodwork that’s in good shape but needs some TLC. Clean first with a mildew cleaner such as X14 and let it dry, then rub in the minwax.
If you must strip the finish, I’ve used a non-toxic paint stripper with good results. After striping, I’ve had some success matching the interior finish in my boat by first applying cetol to amber the color of the woodwork. Then I’ve applied poly-urithane finish such as epifanes to finish the job. If there’s no seam or natural boundary, its almost impossible to match the finish where it meets old woodwork.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
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Good luck with the instrument panel. It was a challenge for me, and I have a degree in electrical engineering. The Yanmar key is useless. They make only two keys for all their engines. If you lose your key, you have a 50/50 chance that your buddies key will fit. If it doesn’t, a pair of needle-nose plier will work. Their engine alarm is useless, and they provide no option for a fuel gauge. Other than that, their gauges are great. BTW, they are supposed to be water tight, so the lexan cover over the instruments is not needed.
I wish I could get my hour meter on my body to work backwards. Sounds like you’ve got a bad ground wire to your instrument panel.
Regards
Rich
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Patrick
The whole story is here.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Call if you have questions.
Regards
Rich 603-493-3330Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here’s the Edson step we have. It’s ten times the price, but its a lot more secure. It takes more room in your locker though. I’ve used both. Some modification is needed to either if you have a rub-rail. I added a teak strip to the bottom of mine. No matter which you chose, these make it a lot easier to get in and out of the dinghy or dock.
Rich
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