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Tor
The chain gypsy is on starboard, the line line capstain is to port. Once the chain runs out, there is no way to use the windlass to retrieve the line. Try pulling up 300 lbs of chain by hand until you get to the start of the chain. No thanks. I have line spliced to the end of the chain. I accidently ran out all my chain once. I played hell getting the line retrieved and placing the start of the chain on the capstan.I like all chain anyway. If the anchor drags, you can hear it. I sleep better.
Regards
Rich
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The pad eye sounds like a good idea. I’m somewhat reluctant to leave a snubber line dangling over my bow all the time, but I could attach it before leaving on a cruise. I’m somewhat concerned about crevice corrosion since it would be under water much of the time when underway. Still thinking it over…
A filler pad made from teak or pressure treated stock would be pretty easy to cut. Behind there a flat plate of stainless would be simple to fabricate.
Rich
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Now for the religious part.
Is 200 feet of chain too much? That depends on where and how you anchor. If you find yourself trying to anchor in 50 feet of water, 200 feet of chain seems marginal. Deep anchorages such as this are not uncommon in the northeast. You can cheat on the scope somewhat if anchoring in deep water with all chain. The catanary caused by almost 300 lbs of the chain keeps the pull near horizontal unless you get a serious blow. Still, 3:1 scope is marginal (you won’t get 4:1 because you can’t run out all your chain and you have the height of the deck to consider). I usually use 4:1 or better.I’m replacing my anchor chain this winter. After over 20 years, its due. I’ll be replacing 200 feet of 3/8HT.
Regards
Rich
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Patrick
Here we go with anchor religion again 😉I keep a fortress anchor on the starboard roller with about 200 feet of chain. I normally use this anchor. If we’re going to get a blow, I swap it out for a fortress fx-55. If were’re going to get a serious blow I have 200 feet of 1″ nylon with 40 feet of half-inch chain stowed below. This would be placed on the port side leaving the starboard anchor available either as a second or backup. I’ve never had reason to use this arrangement but its available. I’d probably use it if stuck cruising somewhere and hurricane warnings were raised.
I have used the port roller to service my mooring however. My windlass has a gypsy on starboard and winch on port. I use a piece of line to lift the chain up in short sections until I have the bottom chain vertical. I can’t lift the block.
The port windlass or more correctly named capstan is of little use without a port roller.
Regards
Rich
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Tor
We all use our boats differently. I have a 150% gennoa. I find it flies well wing-and-wing without a pole. it requires some attention to keep it full, but putting the pole up is a pain in the ass. Not quite as much work as raising the chute, but if I’m going to run up on the foredeck, I’d rather bother with something that will increase speed. I race the boat occasionally. I previously used my pole if I was racing in the cruising fleet (no chute). I found very little difference in boat speed with and without the pole. With the pole up, you had to pre-plan a headsail gybe. On the race-course there isn’t always enough time for pre-planning. It just got in the way.I use ultra-light 1/2″ sheets. This helps prevent the clew from drooping from the weight of the sheets. I found that standard jib sheets are too heavy. Even with ultralight sheets, the the boat requires some attention to keep the headsail full when wing-and-wing. I find it easier with light sheets however.
I have a fixed length whisker pole that stows vertically on the mast. When stowed, it rattles around and makes an annoying noise. I almost never used it so I took it off the boat. If running downwind for any distance in relatively light air (approx 15kts true), I put up the asymmetrical chute. I get much better boat speed. Its very difficult to run wing-and-wing with one of these things without a pole, but a telescoping pole isn’t strong enough and a fixed whisker pole may not be strong enough either. If I head up a little on either tack however, I can make better VMG. It flies well with the wind 120deg apparent. I can fly the chute wing-and-wing, but it requires a lot of attention. I use very lightweight sheets. I think they are 1/4″. This helps keep the clew from drooping but its still difficult to keep full when running. If you use standard polyester 1/2″ sheets I think the sail will be much more difficult to keep full. 1/4 is hard on the hands, so gloves are suggested. 1/4″ might at first sound ridiculously light, but a spinnaker isn’t sheeted in like a jib. Loads that would break 1/4″ line would also stretch out the nylon sail. I have a set of 3/8″ ultra-light sheets that are easier on the hands and stronger. For cruising I recommend this kind of sheet for the spinnaker.
You might try your spinnaker again. I experience about a knot or two better downwind speed with the chute in 12kts true wind. Its hard to quantify. My estimate is based on performance on the race course with similar speed boats. When cruising with much less wind (say 6kts true), I’ll put the engine on with the wind off the stern. Life’s too short to cruise at 3kts. With more than about 15tks true, I don’t fly it. The boat does well enough with just the jenny.
I won’t fly the chute if single-handing or in strong air. There are just too many things that can go wrong. I wouldn’t use a pole in heavy air nor single handing either. Again, IMHO too many things can go wrong.
Rich
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Hmm recirculation valve. What’s that? I have two fittings on the top of the engine for heater hose to the water heater and two fittings on the water heater for the heat exchanger. No valve in sight.
Rich
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Tor
I eventually get scalding hot water when driving the boat. The problem is at anchor.Rich
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John
Yes, I have an 11 gal tank instead of the 6gal. I like the extra capacity and the Force-10 water heater keeps water hot for over 24 hours. I get plenty of hot water after running the engine hard for a while. I don’t know how long it takes. I’ve never timed it. I know that running it at idle for a couple of hours doesn’t even warm the water, so I don’t think its a water capacity issue. I don’t think hot coolant gets to the heat exchanger when idling. The engine thermostat even reads about 190 deg when idling. It reads about 195 when under load.Rich
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Like most folks, I’ve been using cetol for the past 20 years or so. I hate the stuff. It builds up a layer of varnish over the wood and eventually darkens and starts pealing. Its great for below-deck finish. I’ve been able to closely match the Pearson woodwork finish by first applying a coat of cetol followed by epifanes matt finish.
I’m considering semco. It has an odd color, but I’m told it doesn’t build up and peal.
As an experiment, I refinished the wood decking over my coaming deck with two coats of epoxy followed by two coats of epifanes. Two coats of epifanes wasn’t enough. I had to add a couple of more coats. I’m not sure the epoxy treatment did what was expected. It looks nice however. I’ll probably use that treatment for small areas such as the cockpit table and hatch boards.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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When wiring your mast, don’t forget to lace in a steel support cable with your wire bundle. Wire doesn’t like to be suspended for long distances. The weight of the harness will otherwise stretch your wires over time until failure.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep
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Don’t forget a LORAN as backup to GPS.
Rich
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The problem is the owner himself. He did not honor a discount offer provided to me on his website when I placed an order for an air filter. IMHO, a man is only as good as his word. If you publish a discount offer, you must honor it. Not everyone agrees with this. I complained about the what I considered a deceptive practice and asked that he return a W60 water pump I had sent in for service. He refused to return the pump and we went to court over it. Under Massachusetts laws, he should have been liable for three times the purchase price, but I didn’t file the case properly. I got enough out of him to order a new pump however. You can chose to do business with him, but beware. I don’t consider this kind of behavior honorable and don’t chose to business with him or anyone else who fails to meet their obligations.
I also had a problem with TAD. After asking too many questions, he asked me to take my business elsewhere. Most of my questions are answered for you folks on the web site I made about repowering. You can chose to do business with TAD, but don’t expect him to answer to answer questions after the sale.
So what about Yanmar, the company I eventually purchased my engine from? They didn’t really honor their commitment either, but it wasn’t quite so blatant. They answered all my questions, but the answers were frequently wrong.
Rich
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Hmm, I think a head gasket problem would imply other symptions, water in the crankcase, exhaust in the cooling jacket, or soot on the transom. Have you rebuilt your injectors lately?
Rich
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Yes. HP is proportional to torque times RPM. Gas engines don’t produce their rated torque over their full RPM range whereas diesels typically do. A gas engine may not have enough low-end torque to get a heavy load moving. Once they get up to speed, 400 hp is 400 hp regardless of engine.
No matter which engine you have, your boat should go the same speed with the shaft turning the same rate.
Regards
Rich
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The new unit has a recirculating ball-bearing car. With a curved track, only the four ball bearings at each end of the car will be under load. The middle bearings will not be in contact with the track. This will reduce the load capacity of the curved track setup. I would discuss this with the manufacturer before ordering a curved track.
Regards
Rich
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