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Has anyone used Rolly Tasker in Thailand? Or Far East Sails?
Rolly Tasker: Looks like a 150 Genoa using US made cloth is $2540.
Far East: Came in at $2200 for a 135.
My local Doyle loft is trying to sell me a 135 for $3681 (Square weave Dimension Polyant). The Doyle Barbados loft can make one for $2800 (Contender sailcloth)
Reviews online don’t look to be any worse than reviews for the local lofts.
More After pictures:
On this one you can see the old and the new right next to each other, the strip against the headliner has not been done, but the panel under it has.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110117171543003531139/Madness02#5722045510248011458
and another:
https://picasaweb.google.com/110117171543003531139/Madness02#5722046233182317618Results and pictures.
The Klean Strip bleach did not work as well as the older, no longer available stuff. It left the wood kind of dull looking, but in the process, I decided I liked the wood better before bleaching; while darker due to some kind of red stain, it was much richer than the bleached wood, and light enough once stripped with the soy stripper.
Again, the expensive soy stripper is totally worth the price unless you place no value on your skin, liver and other internal organs, and your enjoyment of the process.
Here are som pictures of before:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/110117171543003531139/albums/5697573696823529329/5722040341476208178?hl=enDuring:
https://picasaweb.google.com/110117171543003531139/Madness02#5722043637507183666
or
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/110117171543003531139/albums/5697573696823529329/5722043637507183666?hl=en
I am pretty satisfied.Now that I think of it, the engine rode here on its own pan all the way from Virginia to Boston in the back of a commercial pick up truck, and I don’t know what treatment it got being moved from the yard to a friend’s garage for storage while awaiting transport here. The guy who did move it into the truck and brought it here is kind of a roughneck so it probably got slammed around some. So if you do have to rest it on the pan, if I were you, I wouldn’t get too alarmed.
Yes, the reading lamps that have a plastic 4″ dia plastic cylinder about 7″ long covering the 12 home-style edison lightbulbs.
Here is a link to a photo that I think is publicly viewable https://picasaweb.google.com/110117171543003531139/Madness02#5720558572311887154
Thanks for responding, I look forward to hearing from you.
You probably should block it, but I have a spare one in the garage that has been sitting on its belly for over a year. It has even been run that way. But without a spare, if you did crack it finding a replacement might be a problem.
If you take it apart and cannot put it back together, worst case is you have to get it rebuilt.
Sounds like you might get it rebuilt to avoid the possibility that you might have to have it rebuilt!
It isn’t all that hard to replace those seals.
If your pump is seeping from the cover on top, just put in new seals. I bought the kit from somebody on ebay that included the paper gaskets, o-ring seal for the shutoff and throttle lever and a few other bits for about $20 including shipping. No more seeping.
I think I searched on the model number and manufacturer information on the fuel pump plate. Searching on Westerbeke W60 will get you nowhere.
Inside the cover is not all that scary. Just be super clean. The owners manual for the Thornycroft BMC 2500 (same BMC engine marinized by Thornycroft in the UK) has a much better description, but the gaskets came with good diagrams and instructions. That manual is available for download online.
BTW Spirit has a similar arrangement but with a windlass in the bilge. Also they go around the water tank with rollers that look like those on a boat trailer instead of through the tank. If you look at the topics on the list for “Spirit is for sale” you will find a link to some pictures.
No, Sorry Tor. i will try to get some next time I visit the boat, but that may be a while. I took a large diameter sch 40 pvc pipe and epoxied it in at both ends. Then I took a smaller diameter pipe and ran it through the larger, and back to the bilge. That way, if the chain wears out the pvc, I can just pull the smaller pipe and replace it without any cutting or epoxy work.
I have a windlass on the bow, so I have to have a crew member pulling the chain out of the hawse pipe into the bilge to get it back there.
I chose to have the chain fall in the lower compartment in the bow, there is a pipe from the windlass down tot he top of that compartment. There is a second pipe from the bottom of that compartment to the bilge. By doing it that way (instead of a pipe from the bow to the bilge) I can keep some of the chain up front for easy deployment, and I don’t have to worry about whether the fall into the bilge is enough to pull muddy chain all the way through that long pipe from the bow.
The chain has to have some light tension on it to keep a chain pile from forming forward and blocking the hawse pipe, and to keep the links from going sideways and jamming.
A secondary
I found a picture – https://plus.google.com/photos/110117171543003531139/albums/5697573696823529329
I put in a large framed water tight access port in mine and use it as dry storage or a water tank depending on what I need. When the Saba rock resort in the Bitter End BVIs offered free water with a mooring ball, I filled her right up.
I also ran a hawse (sp?) pipe right through the water tank, and I can run my chain back down to the bilge for longer runs. Usually I keep half of the chain up in the bow, and half in the bilge.
Getting it back in the bilge after deploying more than half is requires at least two people.
I used to have pictures posted on the site, maybe they are still up.
Tor, I saw that too, but since it has the same active ingredients, I assume it will work as well as this stuff I am using. I will let you know and post pictures.
As for cleanup, it is pretty messy, and all of yourfabrics should be put away safely. you don’t need a garden hose for cleanup, but lots and lots of rags. On the instructions of the stuff I have, they say that if you apply it multiple times you may want to neutralize with vinegar and water.
Dawn, I tried the starbrite on my interior teak, and it didn’t even make a noticeable difference. This two part stuff makes a DRAMATIC difference, to the point that I am thinking that I want to dillute it to keep some of the richness that comes from the reddish stain/oil/whatever
Funny, it works fine for me, and feeler gauges confirm the proper alignment. When confirming, I would separate the two couplings with a .010 shim and then feel for an even “pull” when sliding the shim back out. I think this is much closer than the .003 Walter specs, probably down under .001 It has worked so well that I don’t even confirm anymore, except every few years to make sure the couplings have no wobble and shaft is not bent. Maybe my brackets are different.
I do it in the water with the stuffing box in place, but I just lift the shaft until it hits the top of the tube, and depress it until it hits the bottom. then I know about where it should be vertically.
Once I have the shaft held where I want it, by simply having the Vdrive bolted tight to the shaft coupling, it is aligned! The only way it would not be aligned is if the shaft were being bent by the weight of the Vdrive, and my experience has been that this is negligible. (or the shaft is bent, or the coupling wobbles, but these are independant potential issues)
If you now bolt the Vdrive down tight to the boat without moving it from the position the shaft is holding it, you are still aligned. I have tested this a few times with feeler guages, and it worked every time for me.
