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I think our boats have advanced in price relative to other similar alternative boats. And I think there is good reason. There are boats that are better primarily in their interior joinery that were fetching twice what a 424 would get, but now our boats seem to be coming closer to a value parity.
I saw the boat that is under contract on yachtworld at $58k, and she was homely in person. Seems like nice examples of the 424 should sport asking prices in the high 5 digits. I know of two sales in the very low 6 digits lying east coast US. I don’t know what it costs to ship a boat to OZ, but it has to be upward of $50K if super servant from Newport to St Johns is close to $20K
are you kidding me? those drawers are perfect for storing your tube socks rolled out flat .
seriously, they’re useless. if I had another extended cruise planned I would take them out of there. I thought about turning it into 1 large cabinet with shelves. if I could not match the wood, I thought about using the drawer fronts and existing wood as the door to have a faux drawer look .
the BMC 2.5 manual applies to W60
For a highly detailed maunal on the W60, see
http://dc120.4shared.com/download/34167818/eb2257f2/BMC_15_-_25_Manual.pdfOr, follow the link from http://www.themanualman.com/The_manual_man_Final/BMC_Forum_Portal.html
Great stuff, how to rebuild starter, injectors, injector pump, etc, etc.
Also, Thornycroft is out of business, but their inventory and number were bought by http://www.asap-supplies.com/worldwide-delivery/
Sorry, that was careless of me. I meant to say that Bill did not know that the W60 was the same engine as the FX4D. I have not done any research on the W58.
Thanks Chuck. I did find Thornycraft, and they said that they had items like lift pumps and water pumps too. The water pump was 96 british pounds, which is way more reasonable than Westerbeke prices.
Madness is berthed in New England, but has done a Caribbean cruise since eliminating the water cooling. Ambient temps were sweaty hot when the drive felt warmish. My only caveat is that my diesel is old and likely does not put out fifty HP anymore, and I don’t motor over about 6.5kts.
I would encourage anyone to try eliminating the cooling. Put the hammer down and feel the drive. If it gets hot, slow down, and when you get home, re connect the cooling water. It is easy to test.
I did something similar to Quent, but I ran a water-tight hawse pipe from the bottom of the chain locker THROUGH the forward water tank, and all the way to the aft end of the bilge.
Note that I did not say that it was from the windlass aft. I have a pvc pipe that dromps chain in the lower chain locker. Without a crew member leaning into the bilge and pulling on the chain, the chain wil castle in the locker. But, with tension applied, I can move some or all of the chain pile into the bilge for better righting moment and stability.
I move all of it for offshore passages, and around the coast, I leave about half of it down there, and half in the chain locker. That way, when I let out less than 150 feet, I don’t touch that in the bilge, and when I winch in back in, I seldom have a castling problem.
The anchor will pull the chain all the way from the bilge, so there is no problem setting anchor even when if is all in the bilge.
The bad news: it is a pain to pull it into the bilge, it really takes three people. (Helm, manual windlass, and bilge) Two if you have electric windlass and controls aft. Also, the chain running through the boat makes it difficult to find a place to mount your flux gate compass.
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I have been about 4 years without any cooling on my V drive, and have done well over 7000 miles, quite a bit of that motoring. No problems. I think Rich may be right, must Be degrees C. The unit is never more than warm to the touch, mayge 140-150 degrees F. I have an alarm if it gets over 200 degrees F.
Patrick, do you have cooling?
Madness will be coming to Three mile harbor with 4-5 aboard. I was able to re-schedule an orientation sail for our Caribbean trip.
Patrick, that is a shocker! (Pun intended).
Seriously, it sounds like it is a direct short from antenna to ground via the masthead. But I did ask for practice instead of theory, and I thank you for the information.
I would be interested in the condenser/receiver from the old pearson system. I don’t really need the rest.
Would you be willing to spllit it up?
If it is not already taken, I am very interested. I have one of the early style tables, and always wanted one of the higher quality tables that Pearson produced later.
I am away from email for the remainder of this week so please call me at six one seven, eight seven two, three three two four (I don’t know if there are war dialers for phone numbers found on the internet, but I don’t want to find out)
I filled it with oil, thinking that exposure to air after exposure to corrosive salt water would result in more rust. I don’t think it contributes to cooling, but I have no way of knowing.
I have been running my Walter RV20 without any form of cooling for 2 seasons without it every getting more than slightly warm to the touch, even motoring the entire Gulf of Maine.
I put a temp sensor on it that will alsret me if it gets to 200 degrees, but it is now clear that it never will.
