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Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 89 total)
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  • in reply to: shaft alignment #78027
    Seawater
    Participant

    I kind of cheat by losening all of the bolts that hold the V drive first. then I shim the shaft up to the center of the opening through the hull. (Pull it up till it hits, note position, down till it hets, note position. Center)

    Then I adjust the brackets to hold it there. The shaft and couplings are plenty strong to hold it in mid air while you fasten it.

    If you want, now loosen the shaft to Vdrive bolts and check with shims. I my experience, it will be aligned.

    (unless one of the couplings has a wobble, in which case all bets are off)

    Speaking of which, once you are aligned, rotate either the Vdrive coupling or the shaft 90 relative to the other, then check again. That is how I found out mine had a wobble. A quick trip to the machine shop fixed it. BTW, the wobble was not a result of my unorthodox approach, it was fixed before I ever started doing it this way, and there has not been a problem since.

    in reply to: backing into slip #78026
    Seawater
    Participant

    sorry to bump an ole thread, but I found this most helpful:

    http://www.his.com/~vann/KrgStuff/360turns.htm

    in reply to: Westerbeke 58 Manual- Activation by lube oil pressure #77670
    Seawater
    Participant

    I have that drawing for the W60. In the lower right hand corner it is labeled drawing # 15245.

    Perhaps it is the same.

    in reply to: Large resistor/fuse/circuit breaker on W60 #76966
    Seawater
    Participant

    Thanks, all.

    It was indeed a shunt resistor for the ammeter. I don’t see the reason for passing the starter current through the resistor, so I am bypassing it.

    Thanks for the heads up on the welding wire. I used the term loosly to mean 00 fine stranded wire. I will have to see if it is marine graded.

    The circuit breakers seem to be for the pre-heaters and the alternator, but I have not confirmed.

    in reply to: Large resistor/fuse/circuit breaker on W60 #76954
    Seawater
    Participant

    Thanks, I have never had that unpleasant sounding experience, and hope not to.

    I was looking for some other info last night and found a part number for a shunt resistor. It does make sense that since I have a ammeter (non- functional, replaced by link 2000 system) that ammeter would have a shunt. It could also act as a fuse.

    Also, there are two push buttons next to this think on the engine, that I think are some sort of circuit breaker for the starter, I have a vague recollection of one of them popping once, and it took a bit of trouble shooting before I pressed one ot the buttons and restored the desired function (cranking, as I recall). Maybe they use the shunt resistor to measure the current flow too, but I don’t know how they would interrupt the current if they are not in series with the power flow. And, why would there be two?

    Sweet mysteries of life.

    in reply to: fraudulent gear shift control cables #76785
    Seawater
    Participant

    Sorry, the spell checker must have changed a mis-spelled Frozen to Fraudulent.


    Walter
    SV Madness
    P424 Hull #1

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    in reply to: fraudulent gear shift control cables #76617
    Seawater
    Participant

    Sorry, the spell checker must have changed a mis-spelled Frozen to Fraudulent.

    in reply to: fraudulent gear shift control cables #76782
    Seawater
    Participant

    does anyone know the length and type of control cables that are used for the gear shift and fthrottle on the w 60 ? or for that matter, any 424? One of mine has seized and I would like to buy the new parts before I tear the old one out.


    Walter
    SV Madness
    P424 Hull #1

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    in reply to: rendezvous #76747
    Seawater
    Participant

    I can do point Judith.

    Anyone coming from down east is welcome to visit us in Padanaram or Cuttyhunk.


    Walter
    SV Madness
    P424 Hull #1

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    in reply to: rendezvous #76611
    Seawater
    Participant

    I can do point Judith.

    Anyone coming from down east is welcome to visit us in Padanaram or Cuttyhunk.

    in reply to: my battery boxes #76746
    Seawater
    Participant

    I re-located my batteries under the steering quadrant. One of my coolest mods. I posted pics on the site, but they seem to be gone now, and I cannot find them in my own gallery. I’ll find them or take more if you are interested.

    I fit up to 6 golf cart batteries undet the quadrant in a box custom fitted for that space. It is bolted and glassed to the fore and aft stringers that locate the fuel tank, and support the cockpit sole. If anything, I think it strengthens the boat.

    The upsides: 1)this space in not useable for much else, and 2) the batteries fit perfectly. 3) Batteries not in living space (Seawater plus bat acid = clorine gas?)

    Downsides: 1) you must empty the locker to check the water level. Not a problem for me, I don’t seem to evaporate much off. 2) if you have six batteries, you must remove one to adjust rudder shaft bearing 3) limits ways to install autopilot, tiller must be over quadrant (mine is)

    BTW – I made a shelf for a starting battery high on the forward bulkhead of the stbd locker. I wish I had made it even higher, up in otherwise useless space.

    W


    Walter
    SV Madness
    P424 Hull #1

    _______________________________________________
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    in reply to: my battery boxes #76610
    Seawater
    Participant

    I re-located my batteries under the steering quadrant. One of my coolest mods. I posted pics on the site, but they seem to be gone now, and I cannot find them in my own gallery. I’ll find them or take more if you are interested.

    I fit up to 6 golf cart batteries undet the quadrant in a box custom fitted for that space. It is bolted and glassed to the fore and aft stringers that locate the fuel tank, and support the cockpit sole. If anything, I think it strengthens the boat.

    The upsides: 1)this space in not useable for much else, and 2) the batteries fit perfectly. 3) Batteries not in living space (Seawater plus bat acid = clorine gas?)

    Downsides: 1) you must empty the locker to check the water level. Not a problem for me, I don’t seem to evaporate much off. 2) if you have six batteries, you must remove one to adjust rudder shaft bearing 3) limits ways to install autopilot, tiller must be over quadrant (mine is)

    BTW – I made a shelf for a starting battery high on the forward bulkhead of the stbd locker. I wish I had made it even higher, up in otherwise useless space.

    W

    in reply to: reinforcing hull in forward cabin/hull oil canning #76492
    Seawater
    Participant

    Adam referenced a bunch of articulated braces with crutch ends…holding the braces in place while the epoxy kicks.

    I put in vertical 1/2 inch wood battens glassed over for braces. You get the fiberglass tube for strength, and you get the wood to strenghten the tubes and provide tooth for the screws that will hold your ceiling strips in place.

    Best of all, to hold the vertical battens whil the epoxy kicks use a HOT GLUE GUN on a 2 inch segement in the middle, and butter the rest with your epoxy. Hold for 60 seconds by hand, and the hot glue will hold it till it sets.

    in reply to: glow plugs for w 60 #76489
    Seawater
    Participant

    I will try to get some more.

    Email me at walterpiescikcomcast.net so I have a way to get in touch with you.

    in reply to: Gear Backlash #76447
    Seawater
    Participant

    Engine: Westerbeke W60
    Transmission: Paragon
    V-Drive: RV-20
    Idle RPMS: 800
    Gear Backlash: Imperceptable

    Prop: Max Prop feathering

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 89 total)