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PS. Hang onto any nuts bolts and screws! They are really weird sizes, and only available from specialty fastener shops. Seemingly only vintage motorcycle ppl have even heard of this standard. You can re-tap some of them to a standard 8mm metric thread, but don’t unless you have to. (since they are only off by 1 thread every inch or more there is onlya small loss of strength, but then you have to remember which you tapped)
Hi.
The W60 is a BMC engine (2520 as I recall), exactly the same as powers the Autin FX4 British taxicab. Parts are fairly available still, at least they were two years ago when I needed them.
They are also typical of the British narrowboats, typically marinized by Thornycroft marine.
Attached, please find the Thornycroft manual, which is rich in detail. Specs, rebuild instructions, etc.
http://www.asap-supplies.com/ supplied me with a new water pump for about $150 a few years ago. I didn’t see them in stock during a quick review of the site.
Sorry about raising the old thread, but I seldom mention our speed record on Madness for fear of branded a liar.
But since others have seen similar speeds – We have never seen north of 10 knots in our native Buzzards bay, but plenty of mid 8s and the occasional low 9.
On the way to Bermuda, about 100 miles south of Nantucket, we hit 11.3 over ground, and it is caught on video thanks to Alan (Unabated). Paul Lefevre was at the wheel. We must have had current helping use, but if you watch the video you can see we were moving along. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttntmlO7L7M right at 0:50 Paul announces the speed, verified later by 3 GPSs.
More impressive to me was the the final approach to Bermuda in which we never showed a speed over ground under 10 knots for over an hour. Not even for a second. And the apparent wind was just FORWARD of the beam! The boat took on a different movement through the water; she felt like she was skipping. The guys below (Alan and Paul) were getting bounced up out of their bunks “resting” up for their next watch. They were kind enough not to tell us on watch to knock it the hell off, knowing how much fun we were having (maybe by the blasting stereo). The wind picked up and we started to lose control; we had to drop the main, reef the jib and put up the reefed mizzen.
Since we are bragging, I was very impressed with the old girl this past weekend hitting mid 5s and 6s in 8 knots true in a close each (no current; new jib this year, clean bottom, feathering max prop, dinghy in davits) I think that is fine performance in light wind. I left my buddy boat (Freedom 36) so far behind, I went back and took his dinghy under tow to even up our arrival time. New jibs rock!
5 years, >1000 NM and counting motoring at 7 kts with no Vdrive cooling whatsoever. No issues, never hot. Just saying.
My cable started to seize up, so I used a generous amount of penetrating oil as a temporary fix, then when the cable started to loosen up, I lubed it with machine oil.
I figured that the cable had started to rust internally and that it would seize up again soon, so I had better replace it very soon. That was years ago. Now I check the cables at the beginning of the season, and spray some more oil down there.
You may get away with lube for a while, like I did. Then again, if it seizes again while docking in a crosswind…
If you source a cable please let me know the particulars.
Just re-read your post, and see that it is apparent which is the DPA, and very likely that the 8 I read is in fact a 0.
Just re-read your post, and see that it is apparent which is the DPA, and very likely that the 8 I read is in fact a 0.
My W60 injector pump has a tag riveted just under the fuel pressure sensor. It reads: 3342F118 (the 8 might be a 0)
and: P5110671
There are some other illegible numbers in a different field. I am not sure from my notes which of the above are the DPA numbers, and which are Serial numbers.
Thanks Tor,
A couple more questions if you don’t mind:
What did the crack look like, was it just a hairline?
Did you have noticeable leakage at any time?
The bottom of your bilge, was it round like the outside, or was it pretty flat like mine? Mine looks like a lot of epoxy was poured in there until the bottom got pretty flat.
And Adam, was your crack higher up, as I interpreted?
thanks again.
BTW, I just bought a poseidon gas dive compressor for the boat, I am stoked. I have another Cornelius compact compressor that runs on 110 volts, if anyone is interested. PM me rather than hijacking the thread further than I have already.
I don’t know that I have a problem, but I do know that my boat has been blocked improperly, and this last time when I was hauled (by trailer, not slings) the block was aft of the encapsulated lead. Much of the weight was on the pads, but even so….
My bilge appears to have a layup along the bottom that is about 3″ thick, maybe more, and the sides are over an inch thick (measured 2″ above the floor of the bilge). I have drilled drain plugs in the sides which facilitated measurements. So unless the bottom is filled with sawdust and shop rags, I would think it is pretty strong.
Do these cracks appear right along the very, very bottom? If so, how do they penetrate the entire 3″, or maybe mine has been repaired or built differently? (It is hull #1, and sometimes the first hull is overbuilt)
It sounded like Adam’s was a fair ways up the side, if I understood properly. That would be hard to imagine in mine, as the 1″ thick walls would probably support the boat even without the help of the fiberglass keel and keelson.
Also, is this a sinking risk? I am trying to determine if I need to do anything proactive.
Thanks all/
My v drive has no cooling whatsoever and runs warm to the touch but not hot enough for you to want to take your hand away, so I would guess 140. I have a temp sensor on it that would sound an alarm at 210, and it has never gone off. I will try to remember to take a temp reading with the IR thermometer sometime when I run her for a while.
I have motored all through the Caribbean heat and had to motor all the way back from Maine this summer without any issues at all.
Linus is sending me his old one to have tested or rebuilt.
Chuck, why do you say they produce only 60 amps? The rating on mine is 120 amps. I have never seen it produce more than about 75 amps, but I figured that was all my battery bank was capable of accepting.
I always assumed that if I replaced it with a newer 120 amp alternator, I would have about the same charging rate, but it sounds like you have had experience that would contradict my guess.
The two rebuilders I spoke to said the old unit was superior to the newer smaller units of similar rating; but then they stand to make no profit if I bought new.
W
I do have the feathering max prop, and carry my dinghy in davits, both of which really improve light air and upwind performance. Dragging the dinghy with a 15 hp on it will result in really poor tacking angles.
