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There is a VERY good write-up on using prop walk to your advantage in the Krogen trawler FAQ http://www.his.com/~vann/KrgStuff/360turns.htm
I used this technique on hull #1 with good success, including the part where you just leave the helm hard to starboard when backing (counter intuitive) and give short bursts of full power to “hop” the stern to port. You back up with a scalloping path.
It works. I don’t fear docks near as much anymore.
I hate the idea of putting another hole in the hull, but maybe that is the right answer. Do you just put a nylon/bonze fitting in vertical surface and run a 3″ hose to the transom?
How do you keep water from entering through the exit? A flap?
I like the idea of the ash battons, and since you have to put in mounting points, may as well make them structural.
I am thinking vertical foamcore strips, 1/2″ X 2″.
I just searched the forum for the source for ash battens but that discussion was before Pat started the forum. Does anyone know of a good source?
The tabbing that is there is about 3″ on the hull and 2.5″ on the shelf. I will try to get some pictures.
I like the idea of the vertical braces that form the attachment points for the ash battons. I assume that they would go all the way to the inside of the gunwale?
I took all of mine out, Inspected them, had them inspected by a machinist (just in case) and put them back in with new bolts. No corrosion, no signs of stress.
I assume they are original, and arguably the oldest ones out there.
Wow, Paul, that is a great idea. What is really good about that is that the hawse pipe that goes throught the upper locker and into the lower locker can be rund back and terminated above the deepest part of the lower locker. Orienting it in this manner would leave the end of the pipe “aiming” for the hatch above the bilge, so an extention pipe would seem natural.
I was not worried about the forward water tank, since I have never once used it. Even if I don’t cut it for the anchor hawse pipe, I will cut a waterproof hatch in it so it can be used as either a water tank or dry storage.
I tried the home made press apprach, but could not find/make a washer that would hold up to the forces involved in removing my decades-old bearing. The shoulder in the strut left very little of the bonze sleeve of the cutlass bearing exposed, so I was not able to get a “bite” on the bearing.
I don’t know why they put a shoulder in that strut at all…the set screws are there to keep it in place. But I suppose if the bearing walked out of the back the prop would keep it from coming out completely, but if it walked forward, you would only have a zinc to keep it from coming out.
I was able to press the new one in with the threaded rod.
I am getting ready to cut a hole through my forward tank so that I can extend my hawse pipe all the way back to the bilge.
I am hoping that the fall is enough to pull the chain through all that pipe (PVC), but I doubt it.
If not, I will either:
1) install a windlass in the bilge to augment the manual windlass on the bow.
2) make the hawse pipe discontinuous in the lower locker (hause pipe to lower locker, then a fall, then another, second hawse pipe to the bilge) That way I could let the chain accumulate in the bow as I do normally, or if going offshore, have a crew member pull the chain into the bilge while winching it in.
Has anyone tried this? One owner in the pacific northwest had a similar arrangement, but used rollers to get the chain around the forward water tank instaed of going through it. He had a manula windlass on the bow and and electric windlass in the bilge.
Thought and comments?
I used a sawzall and cut the cutlass bearing from the inside. I had to cut through the cutlass bearing twice, then peel the section inbetween out. What makes it harder is that the strut has a shoulder at the bottom, and to cut the cutlass bearing completely through, you have to cut the shoulder of the strut too.
I managed to get mine out without cutting the cutlass completely.
One thing that I have found extremely useful (especially after having bled the system) is to connect jumper cables directly from the batteries or from my battery charger directly to the glow plugs.
I have struggled for hours bleeding, trying to start, re-bleeding, letting the battteries recover, trying to start… over and over. Then I hooked up my battery charger straight to the glow plugs and it started in seconds.
The connections to my glow plugs are good, but I think there is enough line drop that they don’t get blazing hot.
Disclaimer: This is very hard on your charger, the plugs draw a LOT of current, and it is probably no good for the (difficult to find at a reasonable price) plugs; but I was ready to set fire to the boat, so…
Congratulations. Sounds like a lot of fun, and a fun group, I bet.
What other boats were in your class?
I am convinced.
Could someone re-send the email about ordering mast pulpits? It was posted before the forum was started, so my search was fruitless.
I know the deadline is past, but I am hoping that the construction has not progressed to the point where the vendor has to charge more.
I have the post at home, but I want to call the vendor asap (this morning if possible)
Looks really nice Pat. This covers all of the bases.
One thing – On the Google group forum web page, it indicated that “The author of this message requested that it not be archived. This message will be removed from Groups in 7 days” . I wonder whether the maillist has info in the header asking that messages are not archived.
I wonder whether the phpbb forum will honor that request and delete items after 7 days?
This reply is posted from the new forum.
Also, I will get rid of the Google forum.
