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Adam
I mounted 1 odyssey as a starting battery in the engine compartment. I have used several of these on smaller center consol boats for years and never been let down. They are almost bulletproof! They are expensive, but I was able to get a deal on them. The next time I buy I’ll have to look for something different. I lost my connection. I used 2 8d and a group 31 mounted on the forward end of the existing battery box. The 8ds and 31 were made by the same company as the sea volt from WM with the same specs for half the price at batteries plus.
Linus
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In my current plans are creating a recessed panel just like the original
inst. panel on the starboard combing next to the shore power inlet. I want
to move the start key, fuel gauge and remote switch for the windlass. It
will covered with lexan like the original panel so you can lean back on it.
In looking at the photo gallery I see Lee has moved the whole panel to this
location. { https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/finish/LthurnerTable } It
makes sense to have the key within reach of the wheel. I always hated
having to move people to start the engine when entering the creek. I like
the new panel that came with the Cummins but I don’t like having to go
forward to start the engine. Anyone have any ideas of other items that
could be mounted in this location. I’d hate to fabricate a panel and then
think of something else that should be there with no room to install it.
Thanks
Linus
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I installed a Vetas gooseneck on the transom that takes the exhaust to just
below the aft deck. I also installed the 3″ hose to reduce back pressure.Linus
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Guys
The peg board is under the cockpit on three sides to allow storage in the lockers, port, starboard and aft.
Linus
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John
I have no doubt that the starboard is the better material. The cost is the big factor and I have a sheet that I don’t have another use for. My big question I guess is the holes. Are they needed for ventilation or was that just a cheap material that Pearson had on hand?
Linus
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Hey guys
I’m still reading up on the bonding issue. My mechanic said that I should not bond the prop strut when I was repowering. He suggested putting a zinc on the strut next time I haul out. He said that if there was some stray current wandering around that it was better for one through hull to dissolve than for all of them to slowly go at the same time. I’m reading Nigel Calder’s book to see what he has to say. It does seem to be a mix of religion and politics and black magic. Everyone’s got one and that’s all I have to say about that.
Linus<.. snip>
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You posted the discount. What is the cost of each unit?
Linus
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Just used a nitrel glove and some laquer thinner. I’ll have to see which one turned out better, the one that I smoothed out or the one that I left alone to cure.
Thanks for the input.Linus
Rich
The heat exchanger on my W60 bolted directly to the bottom of the exhaust manifold. The oil and tranny cooler had hose clamps holding them. I’m not sure what brackets you’re talking about unless you mean the ones that the hose clamps went through. Maybe I had a funny old engine.
Linus
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Walter
Where are you? I’ll ship it to you next week. The parts are in Oriental. I should be down there and can bring them back on Monday. The heat exchanger inspection plate has been heli-coiled and just cleaned. New zincs to.
Linus
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Rich
I think just putting in a separate fitting for the sight glass would solve
the pump problem. I like the idea of putting them under the sink.Linus
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Rich
It seems like it would be easy to plumb a clear tube from a Tee off the
supply line at the bottom of the tank and run back into the top of the tank.
The problem would locating it in a spot where it would be easy to see and at
the same level as the tank. When I saw the door added at the aft end of the
tank I thought that it would be a great spot for a sight glass that would be
an accurate way to check the level without having to remove the inspection
port on top of the tank. I haven’t done this yet as I am trying to get the
boat ready to use after the repower. Maybe this winter I can jump into this
one.Linus
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Rich
That would be called shipping and handling charges (gouging) I think.
Linus
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Bob
I repowered. Not because of the injector lines, but water pump, heat exchanger and age of the engine.
Linus
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I was once told that I needed a matched set of fuel lines by three different boat mechanics. They were available at that time from Norshipco in Norfolk, VA. To the tune of $565 that of course included shipping. I could not believe that the lines had to be so precise. I got in my car and started driving after four stops, three cities and about 200 miles I walked into Southeastern Diesel on the side of the highway. Outside there were logging machines and old oily trucks. When I walked through the door I saw fuel lines hanging from the white walls. There were several engines from a 65 Hatteras and glass cases full of injector pumps. The man in the white lab coat said ” that fuel line looks like it came of a Perkins”. I had cracked the retainer nut on the end of the line and it leaked. I told the man in the lab coat that the boat mechanics told me the lines had to be the exact same and I needed a new one. He called to an older man in back that came out in his white lab coat and took my line in back. In less than a minute he returned with a new compression fitting on the line and told me that he had trimmed about 1/4″ off. I told the old man what the others had told me and he said that if it didn’t work that he would give my $2.50 back for the repair.
The moral to this story is look for a heavy equipment or other than marine source and the price will be significantly cheaper. By the way that $2.50 repair worked just fine for about ten years.Linus
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