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sumoceanParticipant
Please when you have time post the diagram. I think I understand but a drawing would help.
LinussumoceanParticipantSkipmac
Thanks for your reply. I am not sure I understand, did you use the step from Rig-Rite on top of your block, or did the block replace the step? Your custom step seems better than the original.
Thanks
LinussumoceanParticipantThanks, Rich I have not even looked at the plastic option. With your recommendation I will give them a look.
Rick did you rebuild the old ports at some point. It looks like the glaze has separated from the pane in mine and they leak. I really do want an opening port in both those locations.
LinussumoceanParticipantI never liked the fact that the salt water from the anchor locker flowed to the bilge and sat around the base of the mast. I know some owners have glassed the bottom of the anchor locker and put a drain overboard at the bottom of the locker. It is still on my list.
sumoceanParticipantI can’t remember which boat did it but I know one of the 424s had Deatons boat yard cut the tank up and took it out through the sail lockers
sumoceanParticipantPete on Regina Oceani built a fuel tank under the saloon floor and put a SCUBA compressor in the original tank location. The install is detailed on Blue Water Sailing Magazine February 2011
sumoceanParticipantThe owners registry has some info. Shows the hull number, you may be able to search the serial number from that.
LinussumoceanParticipantI did the same, switching from wire, I ordered from https://www.zephyrwerks.com/
They have the specs for the 424 I think. If not let me know and I will go to the boat and look for the invoice.
LinussumoceanParticipantI swapped out my tank caps with these
Attachments:
sumoceanParticipantI have a Victron multi plus. One day found all my batteries dead (they were 10 years old) so I replaced them. The charger still showed low battery. I had installed a shutoff so the inverter wouldn’t turn on while working on the 120 volt system. The switch had failed, come apart. Replaced the switch and everything is back to normal.
You should have a disconnect also for safety’s sake. Just an option.
Linus
SumoceansumoceanParticipantAlan
If you look at Tor’s site: silverheels.us he has a write up on his move to under the bunk
LinussumoceanParticipantRich
My sail is the original I think. Blown out is putting it nicely. I would like to talk about the used sail. You can contact me directly at sumocean@suddenlink.net if you are interested in selling it. I have a bartender from NH so it may be possible to have it picked up.
LinussumoceanParticipantBill
I can only comment on what I found after removal of my engine as all 424s are different. The mounts were bolted to a fiberglass pan that had been cut to allow access to the strut bolts. The corners were drooping at the engine mounts. The pan had been glued in place with thickened epoxy. Because of the hole in the bottom the pan would not control any kind of leaks as I think it was originally designed.
I installed stringers glued to the hull and layered glass over to tab it in. This is strong enough keep the engine in place for a lifetime. I tied the stringers together forward to create a pan under the engine. only disadvantage I
have observed is more vibration transferred to the hull from the engine.
My two cents
Linus
SumoceansumoceanParticipantI did the homemade tool, cut notch in black pipe. Sheared off the tangs. The mechanic at the yard handed me a Dremel tool with a small cutting blade. Ran the blade around the inside of the mushroom and popped it off. Pushed the fitting through and done.LinusSumoceansumoceanParticipantThe yard showed me a small cutter blade on a Dremel tool and cut the inside of the mushroom head. The outer part falls off and you just pull the valve out of the hole on the inside. It eliminated any chance of scarring the glass.
Linus
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