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I installed a fill gauge on the aft end of both tanks. I installed a tee with a short section of hose mounted to the bulkhead with a ball valve on the end. When filling the tanks I open the valve to allow air to escape and watch the level go up the hose. When full I close the ball valve so the pump doesn’t suck air.
Linus
Live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Nov 26, 2013, at 3:05 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Better make it a watertight drawer.🙂
Quote:
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Chuck
Looks great!
Linus
Live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Nov 4, 2013, at 12:21 PM, “Chuck Ruble” wrote:
Took all summer but it is nearing completion. A slow dance…
I thought I’d share some photos of the process.Chuck[/url]
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I also move my cockpit drain to exit above the waterline. The main reason was the valve on the port side was hard to get to. The secondary reason was running the Honda generator in the cockpit with any breeze at all was probably safe but now the carbon monoxide will hopefully go down the drain.
Linus
Live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Sep 3, 2013, at 10:00 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Good point about the cockpit drains, Rich. So much for my “theory” (although my drains are above the waterline).Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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It’s that Cummins I cut almost 45 min off the trip from Oriental to Beaufort. May have had some help from the current but I did it on north and south trips? Faulty gps you think maybe too many adult beverages I don’t know for sure but the dream lives on
LinusLive by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Aug 22, 2013, at 5:14 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Hey Linus,8.5 knots at 1900 RPM? Man, what do you have under the hood, 150 HP?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Bob
Poked it and squeezed it still seems ok. I think it will do especially with the limited use I give the boat. Hoping for this economy to turn around! Then I will be chasing you guys up and down the east coast. I will have to fix it then.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Jun 12, 2013, at 8:54 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Are you thinking of pulling the shaft in any case? If so, do it. If not,
poke it with something. If it cracks, you’re pulling the shaft…Bob
On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 8:51 PM, sumocean wrote:
Hey guys
I want to get an opinion on when replacement of the shaft log is needed.
I asked the boat yard when I finally hauled out this week and the mechanic
said the hose is in good shape and will show signs before it fails. Anyone
have experience with the hose giving out?Linus
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I put in a TAD Cummins 3.3 couple of years ago. One of the selling points was that all of the marinizing components were of the shelf and available everywhere. The one thing is was annoyed with was the oil pressure ran at 80 psi. The gauge only went to 60. When i looked at the panel on TAD’s web site it showed an 80psi gauge. When I questioned Marcus he said no one had complained about high oil pressure before I changed the gauge and sending unit just for my peace of mind. Paul Lefebvre came to look at mine as an example I think he was going to do the process himself. The only component that I could tell had been fabricated was the adapter between the manifold and heat exchanger. The motor performs well just a little more vibration at idle but that could be attributed to the much more solid mount that replaced the fiberglass pan with the bottom cut that Pearson used. I would recommend the motor based on the cost when I purchased. It also requires only 1600 to 1800 RPMs to achieve cruising speed. I felt this would reduce ware and fuel consumption compared to the smaller turbo engines that are rated at the same horse power.
Has anyone heard from Paul? I wonder if his boat is completedOn a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Apr 7, 2013, at 7:22 PM, “Chuck Ruble” wrote:
Rich, the package used to marinize the engine is the same Bowman heat exchanger assembly used on the Perkins 4-236. While I won’t speculate that there will be parts available down the road I do know that the Perkins 4-108, 4-154 and 4-236 are still out there in large numbers (as they are exceptional engines) and Bowman parts continue to be easily obtainable.
The 4B3 is a Komatsu industrial block that is found in many commercial applications, mostly forklifts and I would expect components from Cummins will be available for a reasonable amount of time.
Chuck
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Ok I guess I thought in your original post you were talking about bonding wiring. I just got stuck on that. Sorry at least I got to take picture of a boat part.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Apr 5, 2013, at 5:15 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:Thanks Linus-
I know about those small bonding screws. I have those on some of my larger thru hulls, but on the one in question there are large bolts coming up from the bottom of the seacock, mainly to keep the thru hull from turning. One of these bolts is my problem child.
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If it is the big old Groco bronze valve with the big flange on the inside of the hull. I have removed several to have the hole moved above the waterline. The bonding wire is just bolted to the flange and does not go through the hull I will send pic of one on the bench later
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Apr 5, 2013, at 8:53 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:thanks Chuck- that is good advice. My problem is I really don’t want to reinstall the thru hull if the bolt that is loose is coming up thru the mounting pad from inside the hull. I sanded down the bottom in the area around the thru hull and could find no evidence of bolt heads that had been counter sunk into the hull from the bottom (as shown in your figure 1). I’m just trying to confirm that Pearson did in fact install the thru hull the way I think they did.Rodd
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Come on Tor keep an Open mind. It’s free and easy
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Jan 19, 2013, at 3:22 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Tor,
I really believe you will have better luck using OpenCPN rather than
SeaClear II. Sounds like you may those CM-93 charts or maybe the Russian
charts. OpenCPN is supposed to handle CM-93. As far as i know SeaClear II
only handles raster charts.
The other reason to use OpenCPN is that it is in active development,
whereas SeaClear has not been updated since 2006 and is likely to never
have another update. The developer has made it clear he is not interested
in hearing from users.
I’ve been using OpenCPN for cruising up and down the US East Coast for the
last two years. If I go to the Bahamas this coming winter I’ll likely
switch back to SOB so I can use my C-Map charts.
http://opencpn.org/ocpn/Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 2:10 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I have not seen that one, Paul. I already know and like Capn Voyager 6
and would like to stick with it if I can. If not, then I’ll have to
learn a new trick. SeaClear seems to be popular and it’s also free.
Don’t know yet whether it’ll read all of the charts I have. Pretty sure
it’ll read at least some.I’ll keep OpenCPN in mind, too.
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I removed the legs on the Edson table that came with my boat years ago and installed a barrel bolt that goes into the sail track in the mizzen. It works great when at anchor. In a thirty knot blow I had trouble with the movement of the rig shaking the crap out of the pedistal. I wonder how you have attached the table. Also do you think that putting the pedistal in contact with the standing rigging while underway could cause problems for the mizzen or the pedistal? I don’t use the table while underway any more
Linus
I would suggest looking for a diesel shop that works on heavy equipment. When I had a leak the marine guys told me the $500 fix the equipment guys fixed it for 3 bucks.
Linus
Sumocean
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Jan 11, 2013, at 10:10 PM, “cstewart” wrote:
Thanks, Pete. I have decided to bring in a diesel mechanic to just fix it. I am way over my head with things like heart surgery and injector pumps.
c
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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The voltage regulator had gone bad and I took the alternator to the shop here for testing. When they bench tested it dragged the motor that powered the tester down before reaching 120. The young guy working there said it must be bad. The old guy said it was too powerful for the equipment. They normally didn’t test alternators that big. I think the old guy was right. After the new voltage regulator was installed it worked great.
I included the regulator with the alternator. It is just a standard automotive type. Hope you get it soon
UPS tracking 1z608w660301543015Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Oct 5, 2012, at 9:47 AM, wrote:
Quote:The W60 came with two possible alternators, the stock 60A unit and an optional 120A unit. Perhaps Chuck was referring to the 60A unit? As I recall, the 120A unit I had put out about 120A until the batteries came up to 14.2v. The alternator eventually went bad and was replaced. I think it overheated.Rich
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Walter
I have one left over after my repower. Let me know if you want it. It was
tested about six months prior to being taken out of service that was about
two years ago and has been in my shop since then.Linus
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This may not be the same boat. It is still rigged as a ketch. It is the
only scoop stern 424 that I have pics of.Linus
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