[Syringa]

As a surveyor I watch the market very closely. I can tell you the prices of 424s, as well as all other boats, are all over the place. Two 424s sold so far this year;one for 42,500 the other one for 79,000. The 422 in Blaine with a asking price of $130,000 has a sale pending on her now. I did an insurance survey on her last year (she is exceptional) and will be very surprised if she goes for under 100K.

Don
S/V Syringa (#124)

[Syringa]

Tor

Thanks for the tip

Don
SV Syringa (#124)

[Syringa]

Syringa had a rough life the last few years spending four years in the south pacific sun and two years in Washington rain. Her nonskid was sun burned and powdery and in genreal looked bad. I also did some major work with the anchor windlass and needed to hide the old holes and repairs on the fwd deck

I also have a dog that likes to go sailing but was slipping all over the old nonskid. One book I read sugested a rubber based nonsikd for him and Kiwi Grip fit the bill.

I sanded the old nonsikd with 60 grit paper, taped off about a 30 sqft area at a time (about 2 hrs work.) I liked to use the 1/8″ trawl best to apply the nonskid paint and would paint and rollout about 2 or 3 sqft at a time. (I did most of my work in about 60 to 70 degree temp) I did have a rust flake in my first can of paint and had to do some fast cleaning to get it off the deck. But over all I have been happy with the end job.

My marina has a problem with roosting black birds from about Aug to the end of Oct. The birds like to eat blackberries then roost on my upper rigging and relieve themselves on my newly painted decks. I had to do a little more scrubbing to get the droppings off the deck as the nonskid is fairey aggressive. But Kiwi grip did not hold any of the blue black stains.

My over-all rating of Kiwi grip 1-10 is a about an 8. It is easy to apply, and the clean-up is a snap. If you roll an area too thin, wait a few hours and reapply more product and it looks great.

I hope this helped

Don

SV Syringa (Hull #124)

[Syringa]

Moving the anchor locker to the lower compartment is one of the best improvements we did. I got rid of my old Ideal windlass and installed a new Lewmar windlass that will pull 1,000# I used a 1 1/2″ heavy PVC pipe to drop the chain into the lower locker and installed an anchor wash-down system.

I re-did the nonskid with Kiwi Grip (took 3 gals to do the all decks) It look nice.

I replaced the tolit for my wife (the old Vac-U-Flush did not work and look like hell) I have the holding tank in the keel bilge.

I removed the salt water cooling from the vee drive. I have been happy with this change and have had no problems.

I removed the shaft break as it never worked very well and most Velvet drives I survey don’t need them.

We also removed all the old brown vinyl and replaced it with off white vinyl and installed furring in both berths. Very nice.

I will be installing an engine waste heat (hydronic) Red Dot or Heater Craft, heater this spring (as it never gets too hot in the North West and we need the heat we can get).

I will also start replacing some of the standing rigging this year.

Don
Syringa

[Syringa]

Galley stoves are covered in Section A-3 of ABYC and if you do it right they are safe. However the subject was Gen Sets using LPG.

If any one would like my old copy of ABYC Standards i can put it up on e-bay.

Don
Syringa

[Syringa]

LGP is a a very explosive gas which is heavier than air. It will settle into the bilge and will give you a very very bad day if you have a small leak and a very small spark. You should read “United States Coast Guard Fuel System Compliance Guideline” by AYBC. You can buy a copy from ABYC on line if you would like. Also read section of ABYC section A-1 on Marine Liquefid Petroleum Gas (LPG) A-1.5 General Requirements, A-1.6 Electrical Device Ingntion Protection, A-1.9 Fuel Lines also A-1.10 Installation & test.
I hope this has helped you.

Don
Syringa

[Syringa]

It does not meet ABYC Standards! Don’t Do It!…

Don
Syringa

[Syringa]

This forum is an information site. It was not set up so I could unload my old boat stuff. I use e-bay for that.

If you want to see items go to e-bay and look up “Shaft Break Pearson. It has a starting bid of $10.00. My other items can be viewed from that page by going to “view seller’s other items.” lighthms is my e-bay name.

Thanks
Don

Syringa

[Syringa]

Patrick

I got a 100F to 300F gauge and sending unit from NAPA. I have been running with the cover on and no oil.

Don
Syringa

[Syringa]

I took the salt water cooling off Syringa’s V-Drive last year. I also put a temp gauge on the drive. My V-drive temp has never got above 130F and it has been running great. The running temp in the (Page 5 of the Walters V-Drive manual) states: “Proper operating temperatures are from 140F to 180F although safe operating temperatures may be as high as 210F” I also changed the oil from 90W to 30W.

Don
Syringa

[Syringa]

Patrick

Thanks for all the work

Don Gardner
Syringa

[Syringa]

Just surveyed a 422 (very nice the vessel, it is now for sale in Blaine WA) he ajusted the prop to 18 X 10 and was very happy. I will be cutting my prop down to 18″ and have it pitched at 11″ at her next haulout.

Don Gardner
Lighthouse Marine Surveyors

Syringa #124

[Syringa]

Use 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, 8984, 1 Quart to remove 5200.

Don Syringa

[Syringa]

5,365.3 hours and runs good. Change oil at 100 hrs or less + good Racors fuel filters.

Don
Syringa #124

[Syringa]

I remove the raw water cooling from my V-drive last year. I put a temp gauge in the bottm of the drive to check the temp of oil it’s only hit 110 D on a hard rum. Walter states the v-drive should run about 160 to 180 and can go up to 210 for a short time.

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