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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 92 total)
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  • in reply to: Mast Wiring Plans #74713
    Syringa
    Participant

    John is right-on about the single negative wire. Also don’t be temped to ground the mast and all negative to it as you will have a real corrosion problem.

    in reply to: Mast Wiring Plans #74710
    Syringa
    Participant

    Patrick

    I did not see the required series 41, 225 D white Masthead/Steaming light on your main mast you need when your vessel’s under power.

    Also are you running a single ground wire or two lead wire?

    in reply to: Exhaust hose #74705
    Syringa
    Participant

    I have been replacing all my deck and cockpit drain hoses due to age. I found the the steel backing wire in the hose has rusted out about 2 to 3 inches from the ends of the hose. Most of this area is covered by the hose clamps giving you a false since of secuirty. If you have any orignal hoses (deck, drain, feed or exhaust) its time to change.

    in reply to: Prop nut sequence #74697
    Syringa
    Participant

    This was a hot topic for the North West Marine Surveyors about two or three years ago. Michigan Wheel liked the small nut first and then the big nut. Saying that I have not seen any problem eather way as long as all parts are cleaned and torqued to specs.

    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74696
    Syringa
    Participant

    Patrick

    I removed the raw water cooling from v-drive November 11 2007 and have not had any problems in the last two years. I did change to oil from 90W to 30W SAE and added a oil temp gauge I can read in the cockpit. I have not seen the temp of the unit above 130 D (checked by gauge & infrared tester). I did clean and epoxy the cooling chamber and keep the hoses onboard just incase. I also replace the drain plug with a pitcock drain so I can change the units oil with ease each fall.

    in reply to: Cutlas bearing #74657
    Syringa
    Participant

    Patrick

    Look at this linkhttp://www.strutpro.com/ on pulling Cutless bearing.

    Your yard should have a tool something like this.

    Don

    in reply to: Cutlas bearing #74587
    Syringa
    Participant

    Patrick

    The rubber is set in a bronze bushing and is one piece. You need to pull the whole thing (Rubber & Bushing). The yard should have a cutlass bearing puller, if not you will have to drive it out with a hammer & punch.

    in reply to: Re: SW Charting Feature Comparison #74572
    Syringa
    Participant

    I have been using Nobeltec for the last 10 years and loved it but my new laptop has Vista and will not run the old Nobeltec program. I did not want to spend $1,000 for a new Nobeltec so I started looking on e-bay, I just got a new Maptech Chart Navigator PRO off e-bay for a $105. It has the Quilting, AIS, Vessel up, Tides & Current, runs BSB & Vector charts, Areial Photos, Internet weather and best of all it will run on Vista.

    The current information in OpenCNP from: Burrard Inlet 049 19.036N 123 07.757W (just north of Vancouver BC Canada) to Nawhitti Bar 050 56.958N 127 52.988W (at the north end of Vancouver Island) is displayed in a tide data box. Also I did not see any current information from Nawhitti Bar to just south of Prince Rupert BC Canada.

    in reply to: Waterline Blisters and Gell Coat Cracks #74375
    Syringa
    Participant

    Small cosmetic blistering on the water line like this is not uncommon for vessels of this type and seems to be a design and age problem. They are not structurally significant. I don’t believe you will be able to get the boat dry enough to do a good paint job this time of year in Seattle unless she is in a heated building.

    I don’t much like to repaint the hull or top side as any chips, cracks, or abrasions stands out like a sore thumb. The Pearson has very thick gelcoat you should be able sand buff and wax the hull to look like new. Yes it will still have the crazing but in most cases it does not show up to bad.

    I hate to say this but watch out how much work (money) you put into a 30 year old boat. Right now yards are looking for work and will try to sell you anything they can. You may only get back ten cents on the dollar. And at the end of the day you still have a 30 year old boat.

    By properly repairing any blister (below the water line) over 1 inch in size, the vessel should have many more years of useful service. Routine maintenance like this should be scheduled about every two years. I just surveyed a 39 Westerly that had a full blister job in 2004 and it’s starting to show new blisters. This is very common (Note: Epoxy or Vinylester bottom jobs are not recommended on most vessels as they seem to have a tendency to fail after a few years if they are not properly done and can cost tens of thousands of dollars, so proceed with caution if you ever decide to go this route.)

    in reply to: Clunky Engine Doghouse #74166
    Syringa
    Participant

    Thanks for the info! I like the look of you engine compartment (nice job). I was looking at re-doing my sound proofing and like the look of your tiles. Is the tiles glue still holding up will?

    in reply to: LP Lockers #74104
    Syringa
    Participant

    I pipped the anchor chain into the fwd pick locker and now use the old deck anchor locker to stow my LPG, dinghy gas, deck lines and so on. I sealed so it can not leak inside the vessel and it has a nice drain hole for venting.

    in reply to: Youtube showing Mischief Maker on the rocks. #74091
    Syringa
    Participant

    See Swan Song #6 on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clShxWA3gho. RIP Mischief Maker!

    in reply to: Westerbeke 60 on e-bay #74065
    Syringa
    Participant

    Boy you have high hours on your engine. My 1980 Weterbeke only has 78 hrs on her, and she has sailed 1000 of miles. I need a new coat of red paint on it and I can call it an overhaul engine. (Oh yes this is its third hour meter) but who’s counting. LOL

    in reply to: ABYC Standards Manuals #73998
    Syringa
    Participant

    Both manuals are gone now. Patrick & Pete got them. I will have them shipped out on the 13th.

    Don

    in reply to: ABYC Standards Manuals #73991
    Syringa
    Participant

    Only the 2007 is manual left now.

    Don

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 92 total)