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I don’t know why anyone would to put a hole in a good Pearson keel. I use my Wet & Dry shop vac and can suck out all the bilge water in no time. I flush my bilges with freash water and vac the mess about twice a year. I live a 1/4 oil-absorbent sheet in the bilge at all times and the vac likes to suck that down also. Best of all I can do it in the water. Also I have a holding tank in that space and still can under it to get all the water out.
Tor
You can never go wrong using good US or English silicon bronze (make sure it’s not the cheaper Chinese stuff). Although Stainless has a better passive reading, if it is starved for oxygen it will turn active and give about the same protection as cast iron. As you know 316 is the best in most cases.
The owner of Rhythm as I under stand was a part owner of a ship yard. He pass away about 9 months ago.
Funny that this subject would come up today. I just surveyed a 424 in Anacortes that has its bilge filled with concrete. The overall job was nice and it did eliminate the deep bilge and clean up would be a snap. This arrangement should also eliminate the weak after bilge area. The vessel seemed to sit on the water nicely and motored nicely. I did not get to sail her however (she is sloop rigged so it may be like comparing apples to oranges to my ketch). I have never been in love with the deep bilge but have got used to dragging my shop vac down twice a year to vacuum her bilges out.
I don’t know if I would drop a ton of ready-mix into Syringa’s bilge. But I have been considering foaming the bilge and glassing over the top.
Also I would like to report that the vessel had a bow thruster and a Max-prop. She could turn on a dime and only had a slight pull when at full engine RPM (HOW NICE!)
Syringa’s vane did not come with her so I don’t know what type she had. But she has some major cracking on the upper vane mount showing she went through some high stress at one time on her crossing of the South Pacific. All her vane mounts are backed with 6″ X 6″ 1/2″ Plywood bedded with 5200. If I were to re-install a vane I would add at least two layers of 24 oz woven roving and use full width 1″ X 8″ oak plank backing boards.
Don
I had some light salt buildup on my dipstick (no water in the oil) so I repaired the cooling chamber with epoxy as instructed in the manual. I also flushed the oil several times and changed the oil from 90W to 30W. I removed the raw water cooling from my v-drive (November 2007 and have over 100 hrs of running time). I installed a temp gauge in the one of the lower drain pulgs. I ran the unit at near hull speed for over 3 hours and the v-drive has never gotten above 130 F. The Walters manual states ” Proper operating temperatures are from 140 degrees to 180 although safe operating temperatures may be as high as 210.” As the waters of Puget Sound never get much above 47 degrees I don’t know if the cold running temps are due to the cold surroundings or because we don’t use the motor when we can sail. Anyway my v-drive is still running smooth, quiet, and cool. I should also say that I left all the fittings on the v-drive cooling so if I need to I can reconnect them.
I have 350′ of 5/16 HT on Syringa;200′ in the chain locker and 150′ on top of the water tank. We go to Alaska and have a few deep anchorages we use on the way up and down so I like to have a lot of chain and I like to sleep at nights. I have been using colored wire ties I get from Home Depot. I have one blue tie on the 20′ link two blue ties at the 40′ line and so on. At the 120′ link I switch colors and repeat the prosess. I cut the tails off the ties and have no problen with them passing through my Lewmar windlass.
Don
S/V Syringa #124Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (also known as CPES) is a great primer for Paint, Varnish or Cetol. It helps with are North West rain I was also told it works good of UV.
http://www.smithandcompany.org/varnishpriming.html
Don
S/V Syringa #124Rodd
I have a Garmin 440SX and it needs a NMEA 0183 input from both AIS & DSC units also.
I have the Garmin hooked up to a Standard Phantom PS2000 VHF (with DSC). I found out the hard way Standards wiring instructions were backwards for Garmin but after a few hours and an e-mail to Standard I got my Garmin to input the Standard VHF. (Garmin uses three wires system; on my unit the Blue wire is NMEA in + the Brown wire is NEMA out + and the Black wire is both NMEA in and out -)
Keep us informed on your AIS system as I am planning on upgrading my laptop chart ploting software and will want it hooked and the Garmin up to AIS before I head back to Alaska.
Don
S/V Syringa #124Mary
Check the suction side of the fresh water pump. I just replaced a bronze cross fitting I got from Hardware Sales (in Bellingham) to find out it was cracked. ($25 down the drain.) We had that cold spell in December and it may have cracked one of your fittings. Also make sure that the water in your tanks are topped off and the valves to the foot pump and fwd tank are closed.
Don
Syringa #124
Birch Bay WAIsland Muse
I hate to say this but the 2008 West Marine Catalog has some good and safe Propane Installation info on page #970. They follow the ABYC standards.
I have two LPG shutoff valves on Syringa: one in the LPG locker; the other one is behind the galley stove. I should remove the one inside the boat to comply with ABYC (I just have not had the time yet)
it sounds like if i go to a new supply line i should only add one switch w/ soleniod (at the galley) and keep the run continuious to the regulator? (You are right)
(ABYC has no requirements on the length of run. You are right the extra hose can be looped.)
You can run a string from your locker to the stove the way you want the hose to run to get a rough length. You may luck out on length and get one off the shelf. You can also have the hose made up for you. “Parker Hose” has done a lot of hose jobs for me (all good).
so far i only noticed the one vent at the locker, looks like i need to look for one more inside?
(My locker has two vents- one at the top, the other one at the bottom of the locker. Both exit the port side of transom.)
Don
S/V Syringa #124
Here are some of the ABYC standards on LPG Systems.
LPG Fuel supply lines shall be continuous lengths of tubing, piping or hose from inside the LPG locker to the appliance. (ABYC A-1.9.5.6)
Each appliance shall be served by a separate low pressure supply line which shall originate inside the cylinder locker. (ABYC A-1.7.2)
The LPG hose must have permanently attached end fittings, such as swage, sleeved and threaded inserts as recommended by (ABYC A-1.9.3). (No Hose Clamps)
A manual or electrically operated (solenoid) shut-off valve control must be operable from the vicinity of the appliance without reaching over the top of any open flame. (ABYC A-1.7.3.1 & A-7.3.1.1)
The LPG tank must have the recommended OPD valve.
Each LPG system shall be fitted with a pressure gauge. The gauge shall read the cylinder pressure side of the pressure regulator. ABYC recommendation (A-1.5.2)
The LPG locker recommendation of (ABYC A-1.8) The locker must be: located above the water line, vapor tight to hull interior, vented at the bottom by a dedicated vent line not less than ½” without pockets, constructed or lined with corrosion resistant materials, shall only open from the top, and not used for storage of any other equipment.
LPG cylinders with greater than eight ounces capacity shall not be stored inside the boat and shall be stored only on the exterior where escaping vapors can only flow overboard. (ABYC A-30.5.5.2)
Testing LPG system for leaks: With the appliance valves off, open the cylinder supply valve. Close the cylinder supply valve. Observe the pressure gauge reading. The pressure indicated should remain constant for not less than three minutes. If any leakage is indicated by a drop in pressure, check the entire system with a leak detection fluid or detergent solution to locate the leak. Test solutions shall be non-corrosive and non-toxic. Repairs shall be made before operating the system. (ABYC A-1.10.3.1)
NEVER USE FLAME TO CHECK FOR LEAKS!
NEVER USE SOLUTIONS CONTAINING AMMONIA. AMMONIA, WHICH IS PRESENT IN SOAPS AND DETERGENT ATTACKS BRASS FITTINGS. UNDETECTABLE AT FIRST, IN A MATTER OF MONTHS THESE FITTINGS MAY DEVELOP CRACKS AND LEAKS.
I hope this helps.
Don
S/V Syringa #124My sole was in very poor condition when I got the vessel not much varnish left and oil staining around the engine. I used a belt sander with 80 grit to remove the old heavy varnish. The teak stripping is only about 1/16″ or less thick so be very carful with the belt sander. I did sand through the teak in two small spots. I then switched to a Random Orbital Sander with 120 – 220 grit to remove light varnish, stains and smooth the sole. You will have dust everywhere so your cleanup will take you days. I used tack rags to ensure that I got all the dust off the sole then uesd Clear Minwax fast-drying Polyurethane with a foam brush. The overall job took about 100 man hours and does not look half bad if I say so myself. (anyway much nicer than when I started)
Don
S/V Syringa
