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Dan,
I placed my door dead center, but if I were doing it again I’d offset it a couple of inches farther aft. There’s still plenty of room for the door to swing open completely, and it leaves more space forward of the door for the faucet hardware beneath the soap dish shelf. Of course, if you’re mounting your faucet elsewhere this may not matter to you.
Also, be aware that the shower liner’s outboard wall is not flat. Rather, there is a slight reverse camber to it, i.e., it bulges outboard. When you mount one of those pre-fab plastic doors that most of use have used for this, if you fasten it hard to the liner/wall it will bend the door frame. The door latch will not catch and the top of the door will probably not be waterproof anymore. I solved this by not tightening so hard on the top and bottom door frame bolts. I then filled in the slight gap top and bottom with rope caulk (non-hardening putty). It looks OK, the latch works, and the door doesn’t leak. No doubt there are slicker ways to deal with that camber.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Dan,
On my boat there is less than an inch of clearance. The aft most wall of the shower liner and the wooden bulkhead forward of the chart table are virtually touching. What you’re wanting to do is impossible unless your boat was made differently.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Regarding greasing seacocks, when I pulled and service all mine soon after buying the boat, I spoke to some tech guy at Groco about the right grease to use on the hard rubber cylinders inside their 1-1/2″ seacocks. I’d heard that petroleum-based lubricants will deteriorate the rubber. The tech guy concurred and recommended “Dow Corning Compound 111 Valve Lubricant & Sealant.” It took some searching to find the stuff – no one seemed to sell it. I think I finally called Dow Corning and asked who might retail it. I’m afraid I don’t remember now where I finally got it, but it was some kind of repair shop where the office manager kindly agreed to sell me a tube and mail it to me.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Chuck,
It sounds like you’d better bight the bullet and pull all your seacocks for inspection, and either servicing or replacing. I’d replace the hoses and (double) hose clamps then, too. I did that on my first big haul-out and have slept better ever since. At that time I cut an access hatch in the floorboard beneath the galley sink, directly above the sink drain thru-hull. This makes servicing that seacock and the drain hose much, much easier.
I can’t tell you whether or not your galley sink drain seacock is all right, but the green patina does not necessarily mean it isn’t. I’d pull it, clean it up and see whether there is noticeable color deterioration (as in pinkish-red spots or areas) in contrast to the healthy gold color of the polished bronze. I believe such discoloration indicates structural deterioration.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Norris,
Thank you for the offer of April photos, but there’s no need. I expect to have my installation done before then. I am familiar with T-bolts, but you wrote, “I cut a slot with ovate ends in the mast about 18 inches below the head, slipped a steel fitting behind it and bolted it to the mast.” I’m unclear about why you cut a hole in the mast rather than bolting a fitting to the spar’s outside surface. Also, how did you manage to slip in and bolt a fitting behind the hole you cut? By removing the masthead cap plate?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Linus,
I’ve only painted the foredeck so far. I had torn that area open when I re-did my anchor locker and windlass mount, etc, and had to do something to re-finish it once I had re-‘glassed it.
The “bird house” is a homemade shelter I fabricated to protect a Clearwire wi-fi modem/antenna. They don’t make an outdoor unit. I’m docked on the opposite side of a massive pier from the direction of their broadcasting source and the signal cannot pass through. So I had to get my modem/antenna up above the pier level, higher than was possible inside the cabin. It worked very well strapped to the mast, where it could “see” over the pier, but had to be made weatherproof.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich,
Yes, my 4:1 mix was one quart grey to one gallon white. No, it is not close to the original non-skid color. I experimented with very small amounts of KiwiGrip in various mix ratios to see if I could get something close to Pearson’s original, but even a darkened mix that seems to be in the neighborhood of it was an entirely different hue. So I gave that up and just went for a shade that made sense to me, a lightly toned-down white.
I believe there is something in the KiwiGrip literature to the effect that you can have your original gelcoat color analyzed by a good paint vendor so that they can then tint a can of white KiwiGrip to match. Check out their web site about that if it matters to you.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Correction
The other day I wrote that I mixed my KiwiGrip deck paint 50/50 white and grey. Actually, I mixed 4 parts white to 1 part grey, wanting the a shade that would not get hot in the tropical sun, but with less glare than plain white.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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a little more scrubbing to get the droppings off the deck
If you ever have more stubborn bird-dropping stains on your deck, a 50/50 mix of chlorine bleach and water in a spray bottle makes them disappear in seconds.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich,
I painted Silver Heels’ foredeck with KiwiGrip a couple of months ago.
Q. The kiwi-grip product looks like it will entirely fill-in the deck nonskid pattern. Is this true?
A. Yes.Q. Even so, this may not be an issue if it looks nice and wears well.
A. It looks fine to my eye, but I may be less fussy about superficial cosmetics than some.Q. Does it hold its gloss?
A. Too soon to tell.Q. Does dirt get trapped in the surface or does it rinse off easily?
A. It seems to rinse easily enough.Q. Did you paint the whole deck area or just the nonskid areas?
A. Just the non-skid areas.Q. Did you paint the cockpit?
A. I don’t need or plan to do that. I will be painting a portion of the coachhouse when I get to it, and may also do the side decks.Q. What colors did you use and what is your opinion on the color selection?
A. I mixed their white and grey 50/50 (1) to reduce the glare of pure white (and avoid the solar heat of the dark grey), and (2) as an attempt to have it blend a little better with the original non-skid gelcoat color. I don’t believe a perfect match is possible. My mix isn’t even close in that regard.My one concern about my KiwiGrip’ed foredeck is that, while it provides excellent traction for deck shoes and sneakers, it feels kind of oily-slippery in bare feet when it’s wet. I have a real problem with that because I often live and sail barefoot in warm places. Been meaning to ask the vendor about it, but haven’t yet.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Pat,
I replaced two of the original long portlights with Bomar brushed aluminum opening portholes a while back. They were pricey – I paid $332 apiece a year and a half ago – and Bomar was unbelievably slow about filling the order. Still, the portholes are well-made and fit easily into the shower and aft cabin slots with just a little bit of trimming back around the edges of the openings. I believe Bomar’s part number for them was N3519. I ordered them through Port Supply (West Marine).
More recently I bought four smaller opening portholes second-hand to replace the forward portlights. They look like they’ll fit perfectly and are well made, but there are no identifying marks to indicate who made them.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks for that input, Dan. Seems like it takes some pretty harsh treatment to have the kind of breakage Rich (and no doubt some others have) experienced. Still, the fact that Bill Shaw eventually addressed this inherent design/construction flaw with a recommended “fix” suggests it’s not an isolated incident. Certainly it’s valuable to know about it so that a skipper might lighten up and ease off when things get brutal on the nose.
All considered, I think some kind of fix is worth doing for someone like me. Maybe after I’m down islands and don’t feel so compelled to get movin’ and ‘get south.’
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Good grief! What an introduction to offshore sailing. Sounds like you fared very well, considering.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I’m planning some offshore passages with my boat in the not-too-distant future and would like to get a handle on just how prevalent this forepeak tab-breaking and oil-canning is in Pearson 424’s. In the discussion of this topic last year, online at https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=139&highlight=berth, Rich wrote, “Try to imagine having your boat heeled over until the rail is almost in the water. Then run up the face of a steep 20 foot wave and drop off the back side until everything up the forward section of your boat is in freefall. The flat section of the bow will slap against the trough on the back side of the wave. Now imagine doing that for a day or two.”
It seems to me most sailboats would suffer damage from that kind of repeated punishment. Clearly, those were conditions in which that particular boat was pushed beyond her endurance. Rich, on reflection do you think reefing and slowing the boat down, coupled perhaps with easing off the wind another point, might have prevented the breakage that occurred in the forepeak? I ask because it seems to me the majority of 424’s have not been structurally enhanced in that area, and yet many have logged successful offshore passages over the decades.
Are there any others among us who have taken your boats offshore, who can shed more light on this issue? Have you weathered rough conditions, particularly going to windward, and did your boat suffer damage in the forepeak as a result?
Thanks,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich,
I enjoyed your voyage report and have added the 3″ cockpit/transom scupper to my to-do list. When did you make that trip? And what did you ultimately do to repair the oil-canning so that it won’t happen again?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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