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Yes, Iâm sure it is. Blue Moon had her survey at Playboy and though I was not there, I believe the pull out was as simple as you describe.
David
Sounds like you were ready! Nice you had a pretty sheltered area in which to anchor, though it sounds like you needed the anchors North and South due to limited swing room. Iâm assuming you must have had a trustworthy chain hook to assure it would not slip off the chain. Maybe a Mantus with the locking tab? Donât know what you had for chaffe gear at the chocks, but good thing you had two bridles since one failed.
Our anchoring situation is different from yours. We anchor in a much less protected area, so plenty of scope, and no need for anchors North and South. Instead, I use a tandem anchoring arrangement on one rode with a 25 kg Rocna backed up by a 45 lb CQR. Our bridle was specially made by a rigging shop of some sort of rope that is supposed to be impervious to chaffe. But donât ask me what material because despite my best efforts I canât find it again. I think a double braid like Sta-set might be better than 3 strand for chaffe protection at the bridle. Less stretch, so less heat build up. Another feature I employ is plenty of nylon in the system for stretch. I use about 125 ft G4 3/8â and 100 ft nylon, 5/8â doubled up. Too many boats lost with all chain rodes due to jerking the cleats off the bow or the anchor out of the bottom. I havenât had to employ my system thankfully, but used a similar system in the same location with my Caliber 33 in 80 knot winds and it held.
David
Blue Moon
Congratulations, and kudos on a good anchor plan. I am our clubs hurricane prep officer, otherwise known as the nagger in chief. Having a good plan and the equipment on hand is the key to success. You might lose the boat anyway, but at least not through fault of your own. Any details on conditions encountered and your extreme anchoring set up might be useful!!
David
Blue Moon
Thanks Tor, good poop. Should be interesting, a lot of good inputs. And OK, Iâll bite. Any suggestions on how to block up? I already know to drop her hard on a block on the aft end of the keel (not!! Good discussion on that topic lately).
David
Good inputs from everyone. Thank you!! I have the âdocking planâ from the owners manual, that shows strap positions. Good idea aligning them with the primary winches for simplicity. And spinning the prop shaft by hand to ensure it is not snared. I think I will have my mask and snorkel on hand as well. Theyâve asked me to pull in bow first for whatever thatâs worth. Sure donât want to pull the forestay and risk dinging up my purty new deck paint!
David
Thanks Jack. Now to find a plater in my area. Could be a trick, though Iâm betting Pensacola has someone. Since it was successful in your case, I assume itâs possible to plate just the outside so that the gear teeth on the inside are not affected. I had some plating done on a bumper some years ago, but am not very familiar with the process.
Hello Chuck,
I filled the pattern with thickened epoxy, #407 West System, then sanded with 80 grit. This filled most but not all of the pattern. Surprisingly, the effect was pretty consistent. You can still see the basket weave pattern, but itâs not too heavy. Looks good. I had done substantial deck repair, which of course eliminated the pattern in those areas, so I blended best I could into the adjacent areas and it turned out pretty nice. I believe that you could roll this material directly over the existing non-skid and achieve a decent effect. Or you could sand, or fill and sand, and also achieve a nice result.
Iâm also interested in how the Interdeck holds up. I think that if it holds its color well, it should be effective to touch it up on perhaps an annual basis, then overcoat after maybe five years. Time will tell. Scrubability is also a question. I cleaned it today and it cleaned up pretty well, though not perfectly. To keep it looking nice, I can see the necessity for occasional touch ups. Fortunately, this should be really easy.
We are located in Ft Walton Beach, in the panhandle.
David
The cabin floor is an upcoming project for me, but I’ve decided to go cruising sooner than later, so it will have to wait till next Summer. I don’t know if the piece of lumber you show in your pic is original or not. Kind of looks like pine, which would lead me to believe it is not original, but a beef up by a PO. I think if it were me, I would remove it, jack the floor to where you want it, if necessary, then replace it with a solid piece of teak or similar. Then grind the hull thoroughly around the point at which the lumber contacts the hull, clean it up, and reinforce with biax and West System or similar.
David
Blue Moon comes out of the water for bottom and topside paint in a couple of weeks. Where on the keel should I look for damage? While cleaning the bottom I have noticed a straight line on the keel where the paint is cracked a bit.
David
I canât get to 30 degrees. My bag holds about 80 gallons, or about 800 lbs. Iâve filled it to near the top and got about 16 degrees, plenty for me and my situation. To get to 30, youâd obviously need more weight, and youâd have to hang the bag much higher so it wouldnât contact the water as you heel. My bag is about 5.5 ft long and about 2 ft in diameter, and if I donât hang it high enough at the outset, as the boat heels (is it heal or heel?) the bottom of the bag contacts the water, and of course at that point you are doing no goodâ¦
Standard air draft according to my data is 48 feet 10 inches, on the ketch. Several of our bridges are published as 50 footers, though tide and weather affects that greatly. I canât trust the footage markings at the base of the bridges, but just use them as reference for past experience at the same bridge, and keep âbridge notesâ for each bridge so I can judge whether or not I need to lean. I can lean with my current setup up to 16 degrees, which gives me about a two foot advantage. You can do the trig, or there are some online tools that do the math for you to determine how much you need to lean to get a certain amount of advantage. You only get a few inches for 5 degrees of heal, but the advantage increases dramatically the further you heal.
David
Hello Skipmac
My track is one inch, secured to the mast with screws in tapped holes every 4 inches. The track is Harken, as is the car. The car has shackles top and bottom to secure the car control lines. The inboard pole attach point (on the car) is a standard ring, not one of the fancy U-joint things. It works just fine, as long as you occasionally lube the plastic bearings with a drop of the appropriate stuff, McLube I think. You also need to generally watch alignment as it goes up and down the track. Hasn’t been a problem as long as the car bearings are lubed. I purchased this setup about two years ago from West Marine.
I’ve used the pole to pole out the jib, but have also used it for my heeling bag. I need to heel the boat to get under some bridges around here. I hang about 600 lbs of water from the end of the pole, about 20 or so feet from the center line of the boat. This hasn’t appeared to damage anything, and I am sure there is a lot of inboard pressure on the car and track.
David
