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Thanks for all the replies guys. We are running these ideas and others down today as our top priority. We are too risk averse I suppose to self insure, plus we have to have insurance when we return to our home marina and visit marinas. I will let the group know what happens.
David
Sorry Jack, I can keep you as a backup, but sold already! Got a call about two minutes after my post.
David
I have a Shaft-Lok for sale at a bargain price! I installed it on Blue Moon, bought it new, and found the install simple and easy. I have pics for anyone interested. No cut in the floor required, but you do have to fiberglass a small block to the hull as a mount point for the torque strut. No big deal. Mine is installed on the jack shaft and has worked very well. It is about 18 months or 2 years old. Would have to check my maintenance log. I believe I purchased it for $700 and would let it go for half that, plus shipping. I have all the paperwork and instructions. The reason I removed it was because I broke down and bought a flex o fold prop, and the Shaft Lok is now superfluous. Any way, for those of you making your crew hold the shaft, this might be a good anniversary present. I leave my home here in Ft Walton for a 4 month cruise in a couple of days, so we would have to act fast, or wait 4 months. If interested, call me at 850 368 6247.
David Tye
Blue Moon
#189Hull #189
Blue Moon
David and Pat Tye
PEA59189M82F
Ketch
W58
650522
Ft Walton Beach, FL
Ft Walton Yacht Club
March 2014
http://bluemoonsails.blogspot.com/
Solent stay
1 user thanked author for this post.
One final thought on the subject, I would like to suggest a more optimum fix for this problem. Next Summer, I may execute this fix, when I change out my rudder cables, which have a few broken strands. The genesis for this suggested fix is my experience with a similar problem on my last vessel, a 1990 Caliber 33.
On my Caliber, there was no rudder shoe at the bottom. It was essentially a standard post mounted rudder hiding behind a permanent skeg. Caliber corrected this on subsequent models, and installed a shoe at the bottom. But, my problem turned out to be at the top rudder post bushing which was pretty primitive, similar to the 424s. The symptom of the problem was steady percussive banging at high rudder loads, primarily when on a power reach with a lot of helm. It was very bad, shaking the entire boat. I worked with George McCreary, the designer of the boat, on a solution. After several discussions, we decided to look at the top rudder post bushing, which on the Caliber was a simple bored piece of quarter inch, or so, stainless, through which the rudder post passed. No obvious shaking or play at this point. But George suggested replacing this piece with a ball bearing assembly, which Caliber had started using on the 40s subsequent to my model. It was a pretty substantial piece consisting of a ball bearing with zerq fittings, mounted in a cast base of some sort. The assembly was slipped over the upper rudder post and bolted in place to a beam similar to the one on our 424s. I was not optimistic this would solve my problem, but it did. I was thrilled.
Anyway, I am thinking of a similar solution on Blue Moon. Suitable bearings are available at McMaster Carr for around fifty bucks, and it would be a fairly simple matter to fabricate a mount for the bearing out of hard wood. Then slip it over the rudder post, and bolt it to the beam. Of course the quadrant would have to be removed first, and clearance between the top of the new assembly and the quadrant would need to be assured.
Anyway, thought I would throw this out before I forgot about it.
David
Update: I bought a piece of plastic pipe from the Lowes. It is a tailshaft, I believe, intended for the drain circuit of a kitchen sink. This piece consists of two separate diameter pipes, the larger of the two intended for a smaller adjacent piece of drain pipe to slip into it. The larger diameter segment of the piece I bought is 1.5 inches ID, which is what I needed for the 1.5 inch OD of the rudder shaft. I cut out the needed section of the pipe with a sawz all, then cut that piece longitudinally so that I could slip it over the rudder post without taking the quadrant and all the autopilot mechanism off. The wall thickness of this pipe is somewhat more than the wall thickness of the piece I removed, so I was not sure it would slip into the hole of the beam.
Back at the boat, I was able to pull the pipe apart at the cut I made so it would slip over the rudder post successfully. I did not break or permanently deform. It slid into the space between the rudder post and the hole in the beam just fine. I left about ¼ inch of the new pipe sticking out above the beam and clamped that with a hose clamp. So far, it looks good. Whether or not it lasts remains to be seen.
David
I removed the old plastic bushing and it measures .055 in thickness, close to 1/16â. Checked McMaster Carr, and they sell plastic bushings, complete with the flange, but the thickness of the material is 1/8â. I would have to bore out the hole in the beam I believe, which would involve dropping the rudder. Not going to happen right now. They also sell Teflon sheet in 1/16â thickness. I have to think on this, but I believe Iâll purchase some Teflon sheet (about 13 bucks) to have on hand during my upcoming cruise. Meanwhile Iâll reinstall by broken plastic bushing and press on. If the bushing proves to be a problem, Iâll at least have material on hand to effect a fix. Iâm getting short on time and this is a stop gap solution.
I did look at the packing gland (rudder post stuffing box), and it looks good and is not leaking water. Iâm afraid to put a wrench on it for fear of breaking something, probably not a good attitude. I am carrying packing material and appropriate wrenches and will keep an eye on this.
Autopilot stuff appears pretty tight. If the problem recurs, I will clean out the lazarette under way, remove the peg board, climb in there, and have a good look with a strong light.
Thanks to all for the responses and advice. It was very helpful!
David
Real glad to hear this response. I too was worried about something more serious, but hopefully this is it and I can find a suitable material to replace mine. Our ânoiseâ also went away, but havenât had too much sailing time since this happened, so I donât really know.
Bob stated that he thought the material to be Teflon. Maybe it is, but Iâve not seen Teflon like thisâ¦.formed to a specific diameter. Where it broke out, the fractures are sharp, like a hard plastic would break. I think Teflon wouldnât fracture like this? Iâll research the home store today and look at McMaster Carr as well.
David
Thanks for the responses. Mine looks a lot like the one in Johnâs photo, though white in color. It was originally held in place by small brads driven through the upper flange into the beam itself. Also, mine is missing a fairly substantial amount of material on the bearing surface (cracked out/disintegrated). I will attempt to find some thin-wall PVC tubing at the box store that has an ID of 1.5â to match the rudder post. Then split the tubing, insert over the rudder post, tap into place, and install a hose clamp or clamps to prevent it from coming out. Iâll let yâall know how it turns out. Gottaâ get this and other projects complete in time to depart later this month for the Keyâs and Bahamas!
David
Don’t see a problem. I would fill the old holes with West System thickened with a structural filler like 403.
David
Thanks guys for the advice. I tried the rescue tape with no success, I think primarily because it was a wet and oily mess around the stuffing box. Iâm sure the product works great with no oil present, but sadly, my old Westerbeke is a bit of a leaker. In any case, the longer it sits, the less severe the leak becomes, and the bilge pump and float switch are working well. And I have a friend checking on it every day or two. So I should be fine till I can get back and re-pack. Thanks againâ¦
David
Thatâs good poop, Skip. I am assuming that soda blasting is much cheaper than shaving, but maybe a false economy if the filling and fairing is taken into account. Buddy of mine had his Southern Cross 28 soda blasted and was happy with the resultsâ¦but, it did result in a lot of filling and fairing. And I have to wonder if he is more susceptible to a re attack of the blisters than if he had had the shaving done.
Can you give me a sense of how much shaving costs? I have no idea, but assumed it was astronomical. Once shaved, do you simply start back with barrier coats, or do you have to build up the bottom with gel coat or something else? How long ago did you have this work done, and have you had any blisters since? Do you see how ignorant I am on this process?
Work continues on Blue Moon. Primed the hull sides today, sand tomorrow, and topcoat with Oyster White Awlcraft Friday, if all goes well. Next week, the blue boot stripe and sheer stripe.
David
Blue Moon, in NW Florida
