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I believe I have 1/2 inch…. it works, the sta-set-x
sucks….The coiled up sections that don’t get used
much (furled genny) get hard as a rock…..
Just my observation.
a— Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:
Has anyone tried using 1/2″ Sta-Set X in the
original wire/rope sheaves. I
may be able to get some 1/2″ for less than 7/16″ It
looks like it should
fit, but I thought I would check.Thanks,
Paul #28
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I don’t have a real good picture but, Bank 1 is under
the companionway boards in the picture
Bank 2 is under what loks to be grey plywood.
Starting battery is under the extension cord.
Bank 1 and 2 are Trojan 125’s. They are end to end
(for-aft)
Starting battery is anthwartships.
You can see the 1/2/ALL combining battery switch
there.alan
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ohhh… you don’t have a propane locker there do you?
alan
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Walt, NICE JOB!
What a great idea.
Some of my space down there is taken up with an
autopilot. But, I might have room for at least the
starting battery. Since I am installing an automatic
charge relay anyhow, the wiring will be a cinch.
It will cleanup some of the stb locker.
alan
— Walter Piescik <> wrote:Quote:If you are rebuilding the stock box (Mine was in the
starboard locker, and
took a LOT of room) you may want to consider
re-locating. I put mine under
the steering quadrant. This is space that is not
very useable for anything
that might shift, but ther is just barely enough
room for a flat platform,
T105, and a piece of plywood over the top to prevent
interfering/shorting on
the quadrant. I think I will be able to fit 6 T105s
back there.I cut the Pearson box out two weekends ago with a
sawzall, so I am committed
now.There are some pics on the 424 website.
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Actually my W58 starts right up… after 2-3 seconds –
maybe 10 if I havent run it in a few weeks. No more
than that… which is why it’s still in the boat.
Well, that and the fact I don’t have the money to swap
it out.
alan— Rich Carter <> wrote:
Quote:Allan
If it is only used for starting the engine, then all
you need is a large
automobile battery. I went down to my local
discount outlet and bought the
largest automobile starter battery they have. In
truth, a lawn-mower
battery would start my Yanmar, but there’s no need
to get anything that
small. My old W-60 would need to crank for as long
as 30 seconds before
starting, so it needed a larger battery. I assume
your W-58 is similar. A
deep cycle battery isn’t usually designed to
function well as a starter
battery, so they aren’t always the best choice in
those applications.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Paul, do you have pictures of the generator in the
locker?
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I am almost postive mine are cored. I have one out now
to start replacing the ports with ones from
NewFoundMetals. I’ll be out there tomorrow. I’ll let
you know.
alan
— wrote:Quote:Solid—
Rich Carter
Original message
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I removed mine, sanded the wood, put on a couple coats
of Ceatol (ALL 6 SIDES) and put it back on. No leaks
since then. Just normal maintainance on a 30 year old
boat.
alan
— Patrick_Seattle <> wrote:I took the P424 I’m evaluating today out for a test
sail. Originally I thought the portholes leaked and
all needed replacing. Now I think the eyebrow teak
along the cabin top may also be to be blame. It is
loose in few places and definitely waterlogged in a
couple as well.I saw one P424 site where the owner had removed a
stainless steel eyebrow, closed all the holes up and
put a stripe over it all to keep the eyebrow look
and hide the now non-matching gel-coat.I’m curious if any of you have had leaks through the
eyebrow and how you’ve dealt with it. I think I’d go
the route of removing it completely. Am I correct in
thinking what is under this is just a bunch of holes
every few inches and a bunch of glue/caulking which
needs to be removed?Thanks,
-p
http://shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick__________________________________________________
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Bob, Where are your 10 pound horizontal tanks
located?
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Sears – Craftsman 25.00
WARNING —- make sure you use impact rated bits –
other wise you wil break off the tips of the bits –
buy GOOD ones THEN if they break – take em back!!I once sanded the bottom of a 30ft boat with a
Craftsmen 4″ DA sander- when the job was done the
bearings sounded a little loud, so I returned it for a
new one…. no questions asked….http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?keyword=impact
— Aaron Lynch <> wrote:
Any tool place, like harbor freight or tool world.
You can get one made in China for about $20, better
quality american made
ones are about $50.Or snap-on, Mac tools etc are probably a couple
hundred.On 4/10/08 8:23 AM, wrote :
Hi Alan
Thanks for the info
Where is best place to get impact wrench?
John Mariposa #216
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Rich, was this pretty much a bolt on or do you need to
do alot of modifications to fit it in?
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have a Snap-On impact driver with a 3/8 drive.
I use a phillips head drive that fits on the impact
driver. Worth it’s weight in gold, esp. if your
working on a 424.
Lots of PB Blaster.
I read somewhere that you could use a car battery and
a set of jumper cables. Ground the mast (black -)
cable and then put the positive (red +) cable on the
head of the screw. Because it’s “almost” a short
circuit, the junction between the mast and the screw
will heat up. That should work…. just don’t hold it
on there too long…. and careful of the sparks at
first.
Two rules of thumb – G-D hates a coward and No balls
no glory…..
good luck
alan— John Stevenson <> wrote:
John,
My comments below.On Wed, Apr 9, 2008 at 11:32 AM, <>
wrote:Hi Pearson 424 Group
Planning on rewiring and re-fitting items on mast
Any tips on:
Removing old SS screws that don’t want to comeout
I’ve had success with an impact driver and PBlaster
type
lubricants/solvents. Sometimes I’ve had to give it
one wack with the impact
driver in the tighten direction before starting the
other way. When all
else fails drill it out. So far I haven’t had to do
that on this mast.Proper drilling/tapping procedures
A centering punch is handy and a good metal drill
bit. It’s very easy to
let the drill bit walk just enough so that the holes
don’t line up with
whatever fitting you intend to attach to the mast.Helpful Aids Tuf-Gel, Lanacote, Tap Magic and
where to get them
I’ve used Tef-Gel in the past. I forgot where I got
it. You used to be
able to get it from WM until they started offering
their own brand. I think
you can find dealers in your area through the USS
web-site:
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_inforWhat to use to prevent corrosion
Nothing so far.
Any help will be appreciated
John MARIPOSA #216 (Cutter) South Haven MI
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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com__________________________________________________
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Well, that is the interesting thing. It may be out of
the way being in the port sail locker, but it doesn’t
have any more room. I am trying to figure out if I can
get an 11 gallon tank in there.
But then I have the same questions as you , is it
worth it?
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have the same model. I also have the 3 storage
area’s UNDER the aft berth…. but, my heater, also a
Raritan, is installed in the port sail locker. Access
to which is FROM the aft berth – a 17″ x 17″ cutout
and access panel.
a
— wrote:Quote:I have the aft cabin model. This is the layout with
two companionways. My original Raritan water heater
was under the mattress in the center of three
lockers. I removed that heater and installed an
11gal Force-10 in the same space.I’ll look for pictures and notes.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
