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Ok, we did some testing. A single Group 24 550 CCA battery wouldn’t start my W58. In fact the voltage drops so significantly that the current welded the starter solenoid contacts in place and it would every so slowly crank even after the ignition key was off. Had to disconnect with the battery switch. A testament on why you should fuse your battery cables.
Then we tried two group 4D 1000 CCA batteries in parallel. Fired right up. At least there is an upper bound.
Tried one group 4D 1000 CCA battery and it took a slow crank before firing up. The scary thing here is if the voltage drops too low are you going to weld the solenoid shut again?
Used 1/0 cables, with grounds two both sides of the engine. The batteries are pretty old and have seen some service.
I’m off to get some fresh group 24 1000 CCA batteries and will test one and then both.
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCI was looking at the beta-hybrids last night. If I ever have to re-power I’d definitely take a hard look at a Beta engine.
Did you have to rework the engine foundation?
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCGood tips guys! Thanks. I will advise when I get this fixed!
Did this get resolved? I recently re-did my house battery bank in LiFePo4 and am now working on the engine start battery bank. The PO had a bit of a crazy setup. Did you add a battery to make it work? Seems nuts that the starter needs more than a 1000 CCA battery.
I replaced with one group 24 and no issues starting engine. W58
They make G24s up to a 1000A CCA if its a pure starting battery. Do you know your batteries rating?
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCIs this the logo you are looking for? Bit of a work in progress as the flag and trident need some touch up.
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCAttachments:
Pearson-Logo.png
I can digitize a logo pretty easily and you can have them printed at a vinyl shop. My 424 doesn’t have any logos on the traveler so if you send me a picture it will let me ensure that I digitize the right logo. I’ll add a link to it on the site once it is done.
As for the builder’s plate, I’ve head of people getting reproductions from here: http://bristolbronze.com/index.html but I haven’t seen an end product. I’d like to try and restore mine someday but its pretty far down the list at the moment.
– Bryan
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
bryan@iwouldsaygo.com-----
Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCBig warnings that the connection is not private and even my iPad, which Iām using now, says the site is not secure. Anybody know what that is about?
The site still uses an unencrypted http:// connection instead of the more secure https:// connection. This means that the information you send to the website is sent in the clear and that anyone listening in on your connection could potentially be reading the information.
Modern browsers detect if a website is not using https and warns the user. This is very important in a lot of situations but probably not a big deal for a sailboat forum.
I’ll look into getting us an ssl certificate so we can activate https to avoid scaring off people.
I have some other plans for the website that I’d like to throw out there… I’m a few weeks from quitting my job so will have more time to work on this!
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCFrom the owner’s manual:
Check compression pressure
Remove each glow plug and check cylinders, one by one, using a compression pressure gauge. If the pressure differs by more than 3.0 kg/cm2(42.7 psi) between cylinders or if the cylinder pressure is less than 30 kg/cm2 (427.0 psi) at 200 RPM, correct it.
Was there a big difference between cylinders?
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCMy W58 has a 1:1 Borg Warner Velvet Drive model number 10-17-004. The W58 tech manual lists two other transmissions. It is hydraulic so there is a distinctive oil cooler for the transmission as shown on page 35 of the install manual.
https://www.westerbeke.com/installation%20manuals/installation_manual.pdf
Do you have a picture of the engine you could share?
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCSounds like you need a new mechanic! There are lots of things that he could have done that would prevent the engine from starting without there being components that need replacing. There is a fuel solenoid that controls the fuel flow, it is shown on page 10 of the operators manual. If this circuit is not hooked up the engine wont start. It could also be that the engine’s fuel system has air in it and needs additional bleeding. It is relatively easy to check if the cylinder is getting fuel, you can take out an injector and check that it’s spray pattern is appropriate. Be careful as the injectors spray with immense pressure but in a very fine pattern. I did this when I replaced the injector on my Yanmar YSM-12 on my last boat. Here is what that looked like: https://www.instagram.com/p/BnAovFQHbmD/
If you need the operators manual or tech manual you can download them here:
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCNot Pearson specific but generally an inner stay runs parallel to the forestay and meets the mast at the same place as the head of a reefed main sail. This way the leech of the mainsail helps support the load from the inner stay; otherwise you’d have to consider check stays to prevent the staysail from bending the mast at the attachment point. 2/3 up the mast is a general location and parallel to the forestay from there…
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCNot a sloop, but for our cutter we looked at used sails and they were showing us sails with luffs from 44 feet to 49 feet. We were interested in a 47.8/44.5/27.6 that came off a Bristol 40′, however, we ended up buying a very cheap symmetrical and flying it like an assym just for the trip across the GOM. We used an ATN Tacker and a chute scoop. Designing a proper new asymmetrical is on the list but if you want to come check out our set up the chute scoop and tacker work great.
I attached a picture of the asymmetrical (they let us try it out) flying off the tacker and then the symmetrical with the chute scoop at the top.
As for used sails, Masthead Sailing Gear has a pretty good selection if you aren’t hung up on having a giant Vigari logo on the sail š
Bryan
Pelican
Pearson 424 Plan C-----
Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCAttachments:
40078959_10101856610050399_3420210718413160448_n.jpg
IMG_3025.jpeg
We are currently fitting a B&G T2 hydraulic ram coupled to the NAC-3 computer. We’ve seen boats that used a tiller on the square part above the quadrant but elected to go with the Edson Tiller Arm that fits below the quadrant. It isn’t cheap but we didn’t want to make fitting an emergency tiller that much harder. We are using the 10″ one.
I’ve attached a picture of what the tiller looks like above the quadrant on another Pearson 424 in our area with the same T2 ram. Sorry they aren’t better quality, I took the pictures after three bushwhackers.
The last photo is of our boat with the proposed location of the ram. The tiller arm is on its way and should be installed on the 13th. We had to build a foundation for it to sit on but haven’t glassed it in yet as we want to confirm the setup with the actual tiller. What is shown is a mock up.
Right now I’m trying to locate a good spot to mount the solid state compass and computer!
Jefa makes a direct drive electric unit that we were considering but ended up going with the T2 ram based on our research. We will use it both sailing and motoring.
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCAttachments:
01-Vigari-Ram.png
02-Vigari-Ram.jpeg
03-Pelican-Ram.jpeg
Did you sort it out with the boat out of the water? Curious to know what the end results were…
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLCAre you willing to go to dual belts? I’ve heard that 110 amps is about as large as you can go with a single belt. The engine should be fine although it robs about 2-3 horsepower to do 110 amps. If you want something larger than that you might also add a switch to deactivate the unit when you find yourself in need of a few more horsepower in adverse conditions.
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLC1 user thanked author for this post.
I moved your post to the general discussion forum in hopes of driving more responses to it. Don’t know if you dove in and ensured the rudder knock was happening at the bottom but there is also a bushing at the top that can come loose and cause vibrations.
See the bottom of this page: Rudder Stuffing Box and Bushing
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Bryan Bywalec
S/V Pelican, Hull 209
Siren Engineering, LLC
