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6.5 to 7 at 2000 rpm, W60, 20 x13 fixed. that’s me too. (1.25 gph mas o menos)
Law Offices of Adam Silverstein, P.C.
(212) 233 4995
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w60, the raw water barrel. I have 70’s vintage crud in there!
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Aug 26, 2008, at 9:38 AM, “Chuck Ruble” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Adam, which one do you need? I’ve got each but none have been serviced. They were on Jim Ashworths engine, running when removed. The main exchanger suffered some damage when the engine was shipped, one of the hose intakes was dented but it could likely be rounded back out.
Chuck
On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 3:13 PM, adam silverstein <()> wrote:
any spares hiding out there?
-busted in Falmouth (but got the temporary fix thanks to 90 lbs dockside water!)-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
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I’m looking for same. I’m in Falmouth just now. if tor passes, I’m
interested.
-tornado boy-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Aug 24, 2008, at 12:16 PM, wrote:
Quote:I have a friend selling a used one that looked to be in good
condition. When you find out what you are looking for, let me know
and I will check with him.
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thank you, bob. popes marina is 2.25 a foot, justified by nice poopers and showers and laundry. the topless bar is “foxy lady,” I think.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Aug 20, 2008, at 7:27 PM, “Robert Fine” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Adam,
There are moorings on the right before the first bridge that belong to a marina. They don’t cost much but if you don’t go ashore there they won’t come out for the money. They don’t have a launch and you’d go to the other side of the harbor to see town anyway.
However there’s a West Marine or Boat US behind the marina and also a topless bar which you might not enjoy but some might.
Anyway, they do have slips. I don’t know the name, but that’s all I can say.
Bob
On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 9:00 PM, adam silverstein <()> wrote:
any recommendations for marinas? I’m enjoying the walking tour/sanitary hose replacement tomorrow. thanks all.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
4000+ and she purrs like a kitten (and belches and wheezes and spits and produces the occasional unidentifiable but quite intriguing flatus).
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Aug 7, 2008, at 5:06 PM, “kalinowski” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
We are coming close to closing on our 1980 424 ketch. The boat has a Westerbeke 58hp with 2500 hours. I’ve only dealt with the Yanmar that came new with our other boat. Questions:
Is this a reasonable hour usage for the engine or are we coming close to major refit? What is considered a “high” hours total on this engine?
Thanks
Dan Kalinowski
(Soon owner of “Swift”)Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
sea stallion out of uscg station columbia river basin, 200 yards of 12″ ballistic nylon harness, several fuel stops (des moines, racine, pittsburgh) and a few favors and gratuities.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Aug 6, 2008, at 6:27 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Hey how did Nereid hailing from Brownsville, WA make it out to the Rendezvous? Is the NW Passage opening from Puget Sound to the East Coast open already? 😉
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrickPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
use a fixed-wheel roller (360 degree casters will roll the block around) and 1/8″ brown mdf cut to sole pattern. that’s how we avoided callbacks with big appliance installation and general refinishing over a nice floor. hint: also run it up the bulkheads to avoid unsightly dingers. clean floor first.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Jul 30, 2008, at 5:48 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thinking it’s time to replace the aging fuel tank before it starts leaking. I need to raise the engine and move it far enough forward on the cabin sole to remove and reinstall the new tank. I figure to use a come-along supported by a 4X4 across the top of the companionway. Question is, how best to move the engine forward and away from its bed. Perhaps appliance rollers underneath both sides of the engine would allow me to roll it forward on cardboard or thin plywood to protect the cabin sole.
Any suggestions most appreciated!!
Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
why is that? we are only there for a few days. plus you noted the e’hampton sea swine need probable cause or a warrant to board. do they have jurisdiction regarding tax stamps?
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Jul 22, 2008, at 8:27 AM, “Thatcher Stone” <()> wrote:
Quote:If you are NOT in NY then you are OK. If they stop you and your Document shows a NY address you are in for an extended visit.<.. snip>
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actually, cracks with rust stains. crazing is less scary. those were
essentially my thoughts w/re out-thinking the designers & builders.-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Jul 14, 2008, at 11:32 AM, wrote:
Quote:Having spent a lot of time fixing the area around the main cabin
companionway, I’d be very cautious of anything mounted on the
deck. Unless it were done properly, water is bound to get into the
deck. To do the right, you’d have to overdrill the holes and then
dig out the balsa around each hole, then fill with epoxy and drill
again. Then you’d need a backing plate. Even then, you may have
problems with the track since the deck was never made to handle the
load. Take a close look at the deck around the fasteners. If you
have crazing, you have a problem.—
Rich Carter
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actually it does. it explains the long tracks the p/o installed on the
coachroof. now for some rube goldberging-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Jul 14, 2008, at 9:31 AM, alan P <> wrote:
Adam, I have a ketch but not the 110/120 lapper. I use
a 140.
All boats will sheet a little different depending on
the tension on the rig. Car position will depend on
the point of sail.
But one of the issues with the 424, is that the track
is too far outboard. So, even if you set the car
position by watching on the flies break (to break
evenly), you may not get the leach to stop flopping.
I am sure that doesn’t answer your question.
alan— adam silverstein <> wrote:
where is the 110/120 sheeted on the ketch? I have
extensive leech flop
in most configurations.-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
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I run my antenna up one side of the split backstay past the split,
about 30′ up total. I have 1″ diam., 4″ long pvc sections with uv
resistant plastic ties through the middle to isolate the antenna from
the wire rigging (with actual isolators on the portion of the stay
between mast and split where the antenna terminates.
1. Am I looking to bubbacue one of my kids?
2. how much copper strip do I need to make an adequate counterpoise
(“now you’re talking d/n show how to calculate this)
-adam
phantom corsairOn May 20, 2008, at 7:31 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Really not good…. The antenna should be isolated from the back
stay base and head and the “hot” part of the antenna should start
out of reach of human hands and heads. Any connecting wire from
the tuner to the antenna should be well insulated.Pete
Patrick Walters wrote:
I haven’t really validated all this for myself, but here is how
the previous owner described the antenna setup on Deep Playa, #152.“The Antenna Tuner is mounted forward in the Port cockpit locker.
The antenna tuner has two connections. The antenna side is
connected with #8 stranded wire to the chainplate for the main
backstay. All the chainplates were bonded together (along with
through hull fittings, etc.) with #8 stranded wire. The ground
wire that was attached to that chainplate was removed and attached
to the grounding terminal on the antenna tuner. What you end up
with is a whole series of closed loops instead of a single
separate isolated antenna wire and a large ground plane in the
bilge. I cannot explain how it works, but it does.”I think I’ve come to understand this as the antenna consists of a
random length wire hooked to a really nice antenna tuner. The
random length wire is made up of all of the standing rigging
bonded together.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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I’ll take it if seawater does not (blah, laminate table).-adam
phantom corsair
212 233 4995On May 19, 2008, at 2:25 AM, Patrick Walters wrote:
We removed the salon table and would be willing to part with it to a fellow P424 owner who plans to put it on their boat for the cost of shipping. I think that the shipping will be expensive its heavy. I’m not sure how unique these are but you can see the photos of it before, during, and after removal here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/sets/72157605130413582/
Â
Everything popped right off except the bracket on the mast. I only had a screw driver with me and will need some power tools to get the bolts out of the mast. The whole things is in great shape and would be ready to install assuming our masts are the same. I would probably need to remove the laves from the main section prior to shipping.
Â
If no one on the list could use it I’ll try and sell it here in Seattle but I figured I’d see if anyone on the list could make use of it before resorting to that.
Â
Thanks,
-p
Â
s/v Deep Playa – Pearson 424 #152
http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Â
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Excellent survey question. Cruise 1800-2000, fuel burn 3/4 to 1 1/4 gph. Speed 6-6 3/4 kn
-Adam Silverstein(via iPhone)
On May 8, 2008, at 7:05 AM, “Robert Fine” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5 knots. I can get the engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it’s trying to climb out of the water. At 1900 rpm it’s burning about 3/4 gallon per hour. At 2200, it’s burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at most a knot isn’t worth it, I just cruise right along.
What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel consumption?
Bob
On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P <()> wrote:
I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
thought I should have more engine RPM’s before the
engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alanPatrick
Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
backing or docking) I don’t believe the shaft is
off set (if it is it’s not much) and should not
account for that much pull. The prop may be over
pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
with the answer.I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
propellers or reduced the pitch.Thanks
Don
Syringa____________________________________________________________________________________
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Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Came in New York Harbor this am, after watching the sun rise off Brigantine. Gotta fix that compass light. Its 78 and sunny, light West wind. Oops. Beer’s empty.
-Adam Silverstein(via iPhone)
On May 5, 2008, at 3:18 PM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
So you want mail…
Sat and Sunday were my last weekend on the hard prior to launch.
First thing I had to do was wire in a float switch and bilge pump. So chasing the wire from the panel back I fount 7 splices to nowhere (three with household wire nuts and open hot connections). After a clean splice and an initial attempt at mounting the pump on the flat section above the ballast resulted in the holding tank not being able to seat properly where I wanted it forward of the pump I struggled with where to mount the pump for about 30 minutes. Finally decided to mount it on top of the shower sump pan. I removed 5 screws that held the forward section of the lid in place drilled 3 1/4″ holes through the sump mounting board, lid and lower lip of the sump pan and bolted it in place. Wired a float switch and dumped about 10 gal of fresh hot water with pine scented Clorox into the bilge then went at it with a good scrub brush it pumped down to having about 3 gal left when the float switch kicked off…. So I have to consider weiring another switch that will let me get down to a few quarts.
Then remounted the holding tank and reconnected all the hose flushed systems and called it a Saturday.
Sunday had 3 quick projects in store:
Replace a gate valve for the shower sump drain at the thruhull, check the lights on the mast and recommission the engine, prior to launch this Friday may 9.
When I went to loosen the gate valve from the t-hull the whole assembly turned and broke and hint of a seal at the t-hull. So I figured I would replace it with a spare Marelon that I had in the kit. Now this is my first attempt at replacing a t-hull. I got all the surfaces cleaned up and seated the new t-hull in BoatLifeand while my buddy Greg held the mushroom in place and I tightened the nut I was not sure how tight was good – I went an 1/8 turn too far and heard a SNAP – Figured I had popped the treads, but Nooooooo – I broke the mushroom.
So off to West Marine for another. Got it together and seated then could not find my Teflon tape. Sea-cock can wait until Thursday night…..
OK on to the mast… There are more wires in there than there are fixtures on the boat. Managed to trace the critical lighting and electronic wires and label them for connection.
While checking the anchor light discovered it the lens was all dried out and the bulb was bad, fortunately the guy on the boat next to me had one he was not planing to put in until next weekend – saved another run to WM. Really wish I had time to rewire the mast…
Engine – well the old red beast has been resting for nearly 2 years. Last Sunday managed to get it started but had no water for cooling so only ran for a few minutes (dangerous I know).
This Sunday I was prepared with hose and water and got her running for a solid 25 minutes – only took about 14 tries to turn her over.
Wet bottom on Friday – hope the water stays on the outside. This will be my first experience with my new to me 28year old boat. The excitement is growing in proportion to the approach of launch the to-do list is growing exponentially…..
Eric
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I had the finish carpenter who made my pocket door arches rip them from stock he had left over and I traded for some furniture grade red oak I had laying around. Â Got a big piece of 2×6 teak for an anchor pulpit/sprit too. Â Any decent yard will carry the stock. Â Use someone close, b/c the money you save could be spent on shipping.Adam Silverstein
On Apr 28, 2008, at 3:17 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
see: https://www.pearson424.org/interior/Q424walls.html
We had a local carpenter make the battens up for both the v-berth and the aft cabin.. It doesn’t take someone with equipment very long to make them. Some day we’ll even get around to putting them in.
– pat
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 2:12 PM, Seawater < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I like the idea of the ash battons, and since you have to put in mounting points, may as well make them structural.
I am thinking vertical foamcore strips, 1/2″ X 2″.
I just searched the forum for the source for ash battens but that discussion was before Pat started the forum. Does anyone know of a good source?
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
