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One of your boats, Rule 62, was lost on a reef in the bahamas, one crew missing, presumed dead.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Nov 18, 2010, at 9:41 PM, “John Sommer” wrote:
Quote:I just completed the rally….a great experience with some of the best sailing I’ve ever had. The old girl did very well. As you can imagine, we had quite a bit of different weather. We ran downwind in a gale….the boat handled very well running downwind with a deeply reefed genny. The problems started after the gale when we had 24ft rollers. This caused the boat to roll back and forth very uncomfortably. We then decided to run off the wind with a reefed mizzen and a reefed genny in 25 knots and the motion improved dramatically.The lesson I learned is let the boat sail her self…that means putting up a sail combination that balances the boat. We hit some calms with winds around 10 knots and flew the spinnaker for a couple of days….definitely required for downwind performance on these boats. Finally, the trades came in and she really hit her stride. We were sailing at 7.5 knots with 15 to 20 on the beam with a double reef in the main and reef in the mizzen.
I am very pleased at the performance of the 424 in the conditions I experienced. Sometimes meal prep was a challenge, but I always felt safe. Once we balanced the boat, hand steering wasn’t such a chore. We hand steered the boat the entire way because the autopilot crashed. All in all a great experience ( though I see the benefits of a stable platform)
John
Indulgence
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I thought he was serving breakfast. As it was 3 am, I’d already eaten, plotted the day’s courses, changed my oil and liposuctioned the ship’s cat. Damned canned cat food.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Nov 16, 2010, at 11:56 PM, ” Thatcher A. Stone” wrote:
Quote:I did that once. Other vessel was Adam. I’m dead serious. Can you imagine? A
year ago last August. Worst fog either of us had ever seen. Pt Judith. No,
he didn’t wake up.
Original Message
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What diameter PVC? My sticks are out and waiting for updating.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Nov 11, 2010, at 2:43 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
I also had the yard attach the conduit. They used two sets of rivets side by
side.
You use a “hanger” to pull on the PVC via one hole and rivet the other.
Then you move to the next set of holes and do the same.I used a lighter weight PVC (class 200) than schedule 40 because it saved
about 20 pounds.Once the conduit was attached I used a snake to pull a line for each wire
and pulled the wires. I was also redoing all my wiring and lights at the
same time.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 7:39 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Skip,
I left that job to the boatyard. The method was similar to what you are
considering, but I decided to let the guys who have done this many times
have the job.Basically you drill holes in the mast wall for the pop-rivets then drill a
second set holes slightly off-set from the pop-rivet holes. Slide the
conduit with wires into the mast, then run a wire hook (e.g. coat hanger)
into the mast through the first of the secondary holes, grab the conduit
and
pull it tight against the mast wall. Drill a hole in the conduit through
the pop-rivet hole, then secure the conduit with a pop-rivet. Move on to
the
next and repeat the process until the conduit is secured from bottom to
top. Then fill the secondary holes with more pop-rivets or self-taping
screws.
Some people recommend pre-drilling the pop-rivet holes in the conduit (to
avoid drilling into the wires), but that requires precise measurement. Not
sure which approach the boatyard used on my mast.On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:00 PM, skipmac wrote:
@john stevenson wrote:
You can convert to internal halyards without pulling the mast, but it is
advisable to put all the electrical wires in a conduit. something Pearson
did not do on at least the early models. That will require pulling the
stick. I always convert simple projects into complex ones.Hi John,
Am doing the conversion to 4 internal halyards and also wanted to pull
conduit for the wires. Your website mentioned you pop riveted theconduit
to the mast which was also my plan but so far have not come up with a
simple
sounding method to do so.
Running the wires into the conduit and pushing that up the mast (yes it’s
out of the boat) no problem but how to drill holes through the mast andinto
the conduit with having a trained muskrat to run up the inside of the
mast
to hold the conduit in place while drilling?
The best idea I have so far is to drill a couple of initial holes to run
a
line inside the mast, around the conduit, back out the hole and tie off
to
capture the conduit and hold it in place. Then drill the rest of the
holes
and rivet in place. So, how did you do it?
Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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I’m one of the last w-60s. I use rotella 30# in gallon containers. High quality oil and it goes in the v-drive too (and on the quadrant cables) so I only have to carry one grade.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Nov 6, 2010, at 10:50 PM, “Herbc” wrote:
Just curious, for the W60, what grade oil is being used. Know that should change for the climate.
sort of a survey.
Getting ready for first change and 15w 40 is on board for the job.
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Defender carries it at best price.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Nov 6, 2010, at 1:51 PM, “allantereshko” wrote:
Hull #206 I need a riser arm for the small(approx 9″)hatch over the aft berth. The arm is 6.75 “. Is this the Bomar cast 100 series. and is Pompanette this right place to look. If so the parts for this small hatch is now showing.
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Spray with pb blaster for 2 weeks prior.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Oct 30, 2010, at 5:33 PM, hs wrote:
Quote:Tor, Great idea! Another item on my ‘do’ list.At some point I have to pull/raise my mizzen for rewiring. I assume with very loose stays I should be able to rock the mizzen loose from it’s step. Anyone care to comment?
Hank S.
SHAY #80— On Sat, 10/30/10, SilverHeels wrote:
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I thought welding cable was a more efficient conductor: more strands, more surface area for the copper conductor. It certainly is not cheaper than standard cable. ‘sup with that?
Adam Silverstein
Cranking away on the sea tiger 555On Oct 12, 2010, at 8:07 PM, “quent” <> wrote:
Dan-
You don’t say what windlass you plan to use. The power draw of the windlass will probably determine the best approach.
Take a look at the charts on p. 422 of the West Marine catalogue. If you tolerate a 10% voltage drop from your battery bank, which assuming your HD alternator is holding at 13+ volts, is better than the less than 12 volts that the forward battery will provide. The chart shows that 1ga or 0ga will work if your load is about 150 amps. If your battery bank is closer, maybe even lighter wire.
I suggest you use tinned marine UL approved 105 degree C wire. A friend of mine set his V berth on fire because he used welding cable for the windlass. Cheap wire corrodes, heats up and catches fire. Cheap insulation melts.
Be sure that your breaker rating is less than the maximum amp rating of the wire.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132_______________________________________________
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Ocean series or the lighter ones?
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Sep 18, 2010, at 5:56 PM, “E. Bradley Moynahan” <> wrote:
For those Pearson 424 and 422 owners who desire a Lewmar size 60 drop in
hatch replacement, be sure to go to the Defender web site pronto, as they
have a limited supply of a special buy for only $250 per hatch. I just
bought 4 yesterday and they have at least 12 left. A very good deal.Brad Moynahan
S/V Windsong
Pearson 422, Hull #5
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Were they flange base or flat base?
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Sep 13, 2010, at 2:56 PM, John Stevenson <> wrote:
Jim,
Around the same price for the Lewmar 60s at WM and Defender. I much prefer
the operation of the Lewmars to the old Bomars. The Lewmars can be dogged
very quickly and mine have never leaked. Bomar does make hatches with
extruded aluminum frames similar to the Lewmars. I would have purchased
those in 2001 except they were not a drop-in replacement for the old Bomar
hatches at that time.On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 12:58 PM, James Roberts <>wrote:
My hatches are Bomar and cost about $900 to replace. Is the Ocean 60 less?
I haven’t replaced the bad one yet? Jim_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Caintcha use 148 sanitary?
Adam sillverstein
-iPhoneOn Jun 1, 2010, at 2:38 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Looking to buy some new 1 1/2 in. hose from cockpit scuppers to thru hull. Thought there was mention here in past of one or two hose companies in FL that had a 424 affiliation. Anyone remember them? Probably a wire reinforced would be best?
Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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1. Heat exchanger may want an acid bath to cleanse it of chunks and
residue; visual inspection is not necessarily reliable. 1:5 muriatic
acid in a spackle bucket works ok. New paint afterward makes you feel
special.
2. In addition to h2o heater, a cabin heater, if you have one, may
also vapor lock coolant on w60 (discovered to my surprise and chagrin)
3. Perhaps you can test broken guage theory with autozone el cheapo
digital thermometer (as opposed to using the seized engine method).Adam Silverstein, iPhone
On Apr 27, 2010, at 2:01 AM, “james bartch” <
wrote:
Aloha to All
My w-58 is still heating up even after i have checked the obvious,
any suggestions on what else i can check before i call in the
machanic? new impeller, changed the thermostat, cleared the lines
and looked for impeller pieces, have water flow out the discharge,
cleaned the raw water strainer,
checked the heat exchanger as best i know how, checked the oil
cooler-heat exchanger and have no obvious external leaking.I can strart the engine run it for about 30 imnutes or so, under a
load and then it starts to creep over 180 and i shut it down as it
nears 200 +/-any thing else that i can check? the engine runs smooth and does not
appear to have any coolant or oil coming out of the discharge, the
oil is clear in the engine, trans and v drive… coolant is clean.please help!
the engine is supposed to be a 1995 series w58, but not sure of
that, survey indicates so with serial numbers._______________________________________________
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explains why my laxative tastes so bad. (still works though)
On Apr 14, 2010, at 11:05 PM, wrote:
Quote:Adam, ducolax is a serious laxative, not paint.
Original Message
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alkyd enamel. Ducolax or some such thing.
-as
On Apr 14, 2010, at 10:34 PM, kalinowski wrote:My next (easy?) project will be to paint the interiors of all
lockers and cubbies. Does anyone have any recommendations for the
best paint to use?Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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